T350 won't start
Discussion
More help please!
Changed the alternator belt on my T350 and took it for a test drive. Belt started squealing very badly and dash was reading 12.2V with the engine running, so decided to return ti base. Car then cutout entirely.
I've refitted the old belt as a precaution and turned it over- engine turned strongly but did not start, or even try to start.
Attached jump leads from a van and tried again, reasoning that maybe I just didn't have enough power to start the engine - same result - turned over strongly but wouldn't start. Dash was reading 13.2 V with the donor car battery attached.
Changed the fuel pump relay, no difference. Changed the fuel pump fuse and no difference. Gave up on it and got it towed home.
Dssh is not showing any faults and voltage drops to around 9 - 10 when the ignition is turning over.
Also checked the fuel inertia switch and it seems OK.
Out of ideas now, any help gratefully received!
Changed the alternator belt on my T350 and took it for a test drive. Belt started squealing very badly and dash was reading 12.2V with the engine running, so decided to return ti base. Car then cutout entirely.
I've refitted the old belt as a precaution and turned it over- engine turned strongly but did not start, or even try to start.
Attached jump leads from a van and tried again, reasoning that maybe I just didn't have enough power to start the engine - same result - turned over strongly but wouldn't start. Dash was reading 13.2 V with the donor car battery attached.
Changed the fuel pump relay, no difference. Changed the fuel pump fuse and no difference. Gave up on it and got it towed home.
Dssh is not showing any faults and voltage drops to around 9 - 10 when the ignition is turning over.
Also checked the fuel inertia switch and it seems OK.
Out of ideas now, any help gratefully received!
Immobiliser re-set maybe required as the alarm has got itself confused - can you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the ignition on?. Look in your handbook, it will show you which two fuses to remove for a minute or so then replace. Ping me a message if you don't have a fuse box diagram & I will tell you which ones to pull
Whilst you are at it check the ignition coils fuse (17). If its possible you flooded it, remove the fuel pump fuse and crank her over for a while.
Shep
Whilst you are at it check the ignition coils fuse (17). If its possible you flooded it, remove the fuel pump fuse and crank her over for a while.
Shep
Edited by shep1001 on Sunday 8th November 00:42
NWTony said:
Thanks again Shep. I wouldn't have thought the immobilizer would allow the engine to turn? If I try to start the car usually without disarming it I get nothing at all? However nothing ventured, nothing gained.
If it cranks but won't fire, it points to no spark or no fuel (if it doesn't smell flooded more likely no fuel??). Immobiliser is dual circuit the starter & the fuel pump I think. Ignition coil fuse 17 was gone and continues to blow when it's replaced. We've tried checking the live feed to the coil pack and that doesn't give any response to a multimeter, suggesting wiring issue rather than coil itself?
We also tried attaching a HT lead and plug to the coil pack and no spark at all.
I'm not sure how a slipping alternator belt led to this! Although to be complete, we did also stick in a second engine / chassis earth at the same time to attempt to fix a poor hot start problem. We took it from a redundant screw hole on the engine to the other engine mount bolt.
Tempted to try a new coli pack simply because it's a bolt on fix and doesn't involve tracing wiring faults.
We also tried attaching a HT lead and plug to the coil pack and no spark at all.
I'm not sure how a slipping alternator belt led to this! Although to be complete, we did also stick in a second engine / chassis earth at the same time to attempt to fix a poor hot start problem. We took it from a redundant screw hole on the engine to the other engine mount bolt.
Tempted to try a new coli pack simply because it's a bolt on fix and doesn't involve tracing wiring faults.
NWTony said:
Ignition coil fuse 17 was gone and continues to blow when it's replaced. We've tried checking the live feed to the coil pack and that doesn't give any response to a multimeter, suggesting wiring issue rather than coil itself?
We also tried attaching a HT lead and plug to the coil pack and no spark at all.
I'm not sure how a slipping alternator belt led to this! Although to be complete, we did also stick in a second engine / chassis earth at the same time to attempt to fix a poor hot start problem. We took it from a redundant screw hole on the engine to the other engine mount bolt.
Tempted to try a new coli pack simply because it's a bolt on fix and doesn't involve tracing wiring faults.
If you do need another coil pack, I think this is the one, Shep will confirm?We also tried attaching a HT lead and plug to the coil pack and no spark at all.
I'm not sure how a slipping alternator belt led to this! Although to be complete, we did also stick in a second engine / chassis earth at the same time to attempt to fix a poor hot start problem. We took it from a redundant screw hole on the engine to the other engine mount bolt.
Tempted to try a new coli pack simply because it's a bolt on fix and doesn't involve tracing wiring faults.
http://www.vauxhallworldparts.com/Part-Search/Vaux...
chris watton said:
If you do need another coil pack, I think this is the one, Shep will confirm?
http://www.vauxhallworldparts.com/Part-Search/Vaux...
Yes that's the one. Get a proper Bosch coil pack not the cheaper alternatives. That's a good price too I got mine from vpw a year or so ago. If it's not one of the coils that has failed maybe it's a HT lead that has gone down. Does it blow the fuse when the coil pack is unplugged? If it were a loom fault it would blow the fuse even if was not connected to the coil packhttp://www.vauxhallworldparts.com/Part-Search/Vaux...
Shep
SPS said:
Hi mate - can't add to the advice offered - just wondering if you have been talking to Ian re this issue?
Is Ian the guy at Torque RVT? No, it's just me and my more mechanically adept mate fiddling with it for the time being. At least we've isolated it to something to do with the coil pack, somehow
Hopefully we'll get a chance to do some more this week , I'll keep the thread updated
And lo,on the seventh day a miracle did occur. The dead were raised into life and did let forth a might roar.
Car started first time on standing for a week, no parts replaced, no remedial actions at all.Praise the Lord, it's a miracle!
Fecking TVRs...
Thanks for all the suggestions,clearly water got somewhere it shouldn't somehow.
Car started first time on standing for a week, no parts replaced, no remedial actions at all.Praise the Lord, it's a miracle!
Fecking TVRs...
Thanks for all the suggestions,clearly water got somewhere it shouldn't somehow.
NWTony said:
And lo,on the seventh day a miracle did occur. The dead were raised into life and did let forth a might roar.
Car started first time on standing for a week, no parts replaced, no remedial actions at all.Praise the Lord, it's a miracle!
Fecking TVRs...
Thanks for all the suggestions,clearly water got somewhere it shouldn't somehow.
I love it when the cars self heal BUT I would still change the coil pack to be sure. Next time it gives up you might be in the arse end of nowhere stranded. If you have the diagnostics software, plug the car in and have a look at how smooth the ignition coil trace is. If its not smooth on tick-over then it points to the coil pack breaking down and/or a fault with the HT leadsCar started first time on standing for a week, no parts replaced, no remedial actions at all.Praise the Lord, it's a miracle!
Fecking TVRs...
Thanks for all the suggestions,clearly water got somewhere it shouldn't somehow.
shep1001 said:
I love it when the cars self heal BUT I would still change the coil pack to be sure. Next time it gives up you might be in the arse end of nowhere stranded. If you have the diagnostics software, plug the car in and have a look at how smooth the ignition coil trace is. If its not smooth on tick-over then it points to the coil pack breaking down and/or a fault with the HT leads
Burn him! He's a witch!Guess what happened to me last night???
Yep,got it one one,70ish driving home then no power and managed to coast it far enough to get it off the road.
Now fixed, properly this time I hope. Fuse blew even with the engine loomed detached at the bulkhead connector, so problem with the internal loom, which we've hopefully now resolved.
Ah the joys of TVR ownership. Hail, howling wind, rain, everything you need when working on electrics
Thanks for everyone's help.
Ah the joys of TVR ownership. Hail, howling wind, rain, everything you need when working on electrics
Thanks for everyone's help.
Will this never end!
Car starts and runs fine,but dash readouts are all over the place.
Refitted another new alternator belt today,had to charge the battery of another vehicle as the battery was flat as a pancake, alarm going off willy nilly,doors wouldn't open etc.
Car started fine but now the dash reports water temp,oil temp and oil pressure faults and the numerical values for these are all over the place. The voltage read out is fine however.
Read outs seem stable sensible when that car is started, but go mad with running or it seems, turning the heating on. Car drives fine,so I'm pretty sure it isn't sensor faults.
Would a very flat battery cause this? Is there anything I can do to test it, reset the dash ECU?
It's beginning to get on my nerves now I have to admit.
Car starts and runs fine,but dash readouts are all over the place.
Refitted another new alternator belt today,had to charge the battery of another vehicle as the battery was flat as a pancake, alarm going off willy nilly,doors wouldn't open etc.
Car started fine but now the dash reports water temp,oil temp and oil pressure faults and the numerical values for these are all over the place. The voltage read out is fine however.
Read outs seem stable sensible when that car is started, but go mad with running or it seems, turning the heating on. Car drives fine,so I'm pretty sure it isn't sensor faults.
Would a very flat battery cause this? Is there anything I can do to test it, reset the dash ECU?
It's beginning to get on my nerves now I have to admit.
NWTony said:
Will this never end!
Car starts and runs fine,but dash readouts are all over the place.
Refitted another new alternator belt today,had to charge the battery of another vehicle as the battery was flat as a pancake, alarm going off willy nilly,doors wouldn't open etc.
Car started fine but now the dash reports water temp,oil temp and oil pressure faults and the numerical values for these are all over the place. The voltage read out is fine however.
Read outs seem stable sensible when that car is started, but go mad with running or it seems, turning the heating on. Car drives fine,so I'm pretty sure it isn't sensor faults.
Would a very flat battery cause this? Is there anything I can do to test it, reset the dash ECU?
It's beginning to get on my nerves now I have to admit.
I reckon all this has been going on has put strain on the battery and its now dead.Car starts and runs fine,but dash readouts are all over the place.
Refitted another new alternator belt today,had to charge the battery of another vehicle as the battery was flat as a pancake, alarm going off willy nilly,doors wouldn't open etc.
Car started fine but now the dash reports water temp,oil temp and oil pressure faults and the numerical values for these are all over the place. The voltage read out is fine however.
Read outs seem stable sensible when that car is started, but go mad with running or it seems, turning the heating on. Car drives fine,so I'm pretty sure it isn't sensor faults.
Would a very flat battery cause this? Is there anything I can do to test it, reset the dash ECU?
It's beginning to get on my nerves now I have to admit.
What are the cranking volts? Dash should be accurate there... well mine was when comparing with AA man's gadget.
btw my dead battery showed 12v pre cranking and 13.4 post AA man... he told me not to get to comfortable and order a new one, but go ahead and drive it for a while to charge it up.
What followed 5 min later going down the road (to charge it up) was... belt squeal, smoke, snap, coast into petrol station, flatbed.
Point is, volts looked good good at rest (haywire dash though), cranking was < 9V which = dead.
What followed 5 min later going down the road (to charge it up) was... belt squeal, smoke, snap, coast into petrol station, flatbed.
Point is, volts looked good good at rest (haywire dash though), cranking was < 9V which = dead.
SergSC said:
NWTony said:
Will this never end!
Car starts and runs fine,but dash readouts are all over the place.
Refitted another new alternator belt today,had to charge the battery of another vehicle as the battery was flat as a pancake, alarm going off willy nilly,doors wouldn't open etc.
Car started fine but now the dash reports water temp,oil temp and oil pressure faults and the numerical values for these are all over the place. The voltage read out is fine however.
Read outs seem stable sensible when that car is started, but go mad with running or it seems, turning the heating on. Car drives fine,so I'm pretty sure it isn't sensor faults.
Would a very flat battery cause this? Is there anything I can do to test it, reset the dash ECU?
It's beginning to get on my nerves now I have to admit.
I reckon all this has been going on has put strain on the battery and its now dead.Car starts and runs fine,but dash readouts are all over the place.
Refitted another new alternator belt today,had to charge the battery of another vehicle as the battery was flat as a pancake, alarm going off willy nilly,doors wouldn't open etc.
Car started fine but now the dash reports water temp,oil temp and oil pressure faults and the numerical values for these are all over the place. The voltage read out is fine however.
Read outs seem stable sensible when that car is started, but go mad with running or it seems, turning the heating on. Car drives fine,so I'm pretty sure it isn't sensor faults.
Would a very flat battery cause this? Is there anything I can do to test it, reset the dash ECU?
It's beginning to get on my nerves now I have to admit.
What are the cranking volts? Dash should be accurate there... well mine was when comparing with AA man's gadget.
Alternator belt was the initial problem, well i say problem, it was fine but I thought I'd change it as I'd replaced the alternator and put the old belt on. Everything was actually running fine before I fiddled.
New belt slipping and car cut out, turned out to be coil pack wiring, so no obvious link there.
Battery appears to be fine, read out is 13.5ish when running, the car has had about 30 miles and multiple stop starts in this mileage. In fact only the voltage read out is stable / reliable. Water temp, oil temp, oil pressure and fuel volume are all random.
No reason for an earth problem, none of the earths have been touched recently. Car sits at idle and the readings seem OK, but driving along they are all over the shop. Turning the heating on does seem to instigate dash readout problems,but turning it off again doesn't solve them.
These things are sent to try me (and my mate who is mechanically adept). Thanks for all the suggestions,I'll look into them. I'd like to blame the alternator since that's what kicked it off, but it's providing stable voltage it seems - is there anything else it can do to upset the dash?
New belt slipping and car cut out, turned out to be coil pack wiring, so no obvious link there.
Battery appears to be fine, read out is 13.5ish when running, the car has had about 30 miles and multiple stop starts in this mileage. In fact only the voltage read out is stable / reliable. Water temp, oil temp, oil pressure and fuel volume are all random.
No reason for an earth problem, none of the earths have been touched recently. Car sits at idle and the readings seem OK, but driving along they are all over the shop. Turning the heating on does seem to instigate dash readout problems,but turning it off again doesn't solve them.
These things are sent to try me (and my mate who is mechanically adept). Thanks for all the suggestions,I'll look into them. I'd like to blame the alternator since that's what kicked it off, but it's providing stable voltage it seems - is there anything else it can do to upset the dash?
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