Engine Cooling Fan Bypass Switch
Discussion
Assuming you have a standard loom and an otter switch....
Option 1
Find the pink and green wire in the loom in the passenger footwell.
Splice a wire to this using snap lock cable splice connector and take this to one side of a toggle switch, take the other side of the toggle switch to an earth cable or point.
Option 2
piggy back two wires to the otter switch (one to each of the otter switch spades) and run these back to a toggle switch.
I put my toggle switch in the plastic lower section of the ignition switch/steering column cowling.
Option 1
Find the pink and green wire in the loom in the passenger footwell.
Splice a wire to this using snap lock cable splice connector and take this to one side of a toggle switch, take the other side of the toggle switch to an earth cable or point.
Option 2
piggy back two wires to the otter switch (one to each of the otter switch spades) and run these back to a toggle switch.
I put my toggle switch in the plastic lower section of the ignition switch/steering column cowling.
Valid point. Not had to use mine yet, but the car came with one wired as per option two, and I changed it to option 1 as it was a much tidier installation.
option 3 is to put a short cable in the boot that has a spade connector at each end and in the event of an otther switch failure, use the cable to temporarily join the wires to the otter switch together.
option 3 is to put a short cable in the boot that has a spade connector at each end and in the event of an otther switch failure, use the cable to temporarily join the wires to the otter switch together.
Smokey Boyer said:
Valid point. Not had to use mine yet, but the car came with one wired as per option two, and I changed it to option 1 as it was a much tidier installation.
option 3 is to put a short cable in the boot that has a spade connector at each end and in the event of an otther switch failure, use the cable to temporarily join the wires to the otter switch together.
I did have an otter switch failure & just by passed it on the day option 3 is to put a short cable in the boot that has a spade connector at each end and in the event of an otther switch failure, use the cable to temporarily join the wires to the otter switch together.
I ran wires form the otter switch then used the rear wiper control to switch it off and on.
It works well if you have the rear wash/wipe switch (which I think is only on earlier Chimaeras) and means that you don't need an extra switch.
Just need to work out what to use the rear wash position for ..... Lasers perhaps?
It works well if you have the rear wash/wipe switch (which I think is only on earlier Chimaeras) and means that you don't need an extra switch.
Just need to work out what to use the rear wash position for ..... Lasers perhaps?
mart 63 said:
Mine was wired up to the dash light off an on switch under left side of dash.Why they have a dash light switch,god only knows
I think it was meant for a dimmer but when they see how piss poor the dial back-lights were already they just bunged in a switch instead to plug the dash hole mart 63 said:
Mine was wired up to the dash light off an on switch under left side of dash.Why they have a dash light switch,god only knows
well.... either driving along a dark road with less glare in your eyes is useful (except the main beam light is awfully bright then), or when parked up with sidelights on this presumably reduces the overall current drain by quite alot.mart 63 said:
Mine was wired up to the dash light off an on switch under left side of dash.Why they have a dash light switch,god only knows
+1 on this. Mine was done at the last service, using the same switch. It's a 'sleep-easy' contingency measure only. Not had an otter switch failure personally (tempting fate!) but I know a man who has.As above rigging an over-ride is not too difficult.
If you can run to it though, the Modwise Two Stage Cooling Kit is a better solution.
http://www.clarion-service.co.uk/cs/Two-Stage_Cool...
If you can run to it though, the Modwise Two Stage Cooling Kit is a better solution.
http://www.clarion-service.co.uk/cs/Two-Stage_Cool...
If like me you struggle to find the relevant wire in the footwell you only need to run 1 wire to the otter switch, you run this back to a switch and just earth the other side.
All quite easy if you use the dash light switch as you can earth to the steering column fixings (mine had a path to earth), just bridge the old dash switch connections together as the switch isnt really used.
An easy way to save £100 on other kits!
All quite easy if you use the dash light switch as you can earth to the steering column fixings (mine had a path to earth), just bridge the old dash switch connections together as the switch isnt really used.
An easy way to save £100 on other kits!
DrasticplastiC said:
Thanks for your replies. To answer to one reply as to why an override switch is necessary, if the spade connector comes off or the temp switch fails as you head into a city in the Summer, it will hit 100°C and boil over before you can say bob's your uncle.
but you've still got to notice, and haven't you introduced a second potential for a fault Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff