Exhaust manifold repair
Discussion
Hi all
Have removed cast iron exhaust manifold from my 350i and there is a small hole in it (about 2 cm long and 3mm wide.There seem to be all sorts of conflicting opinions on the web Can anybody advise if it is worth having it repaired, or is it not likely to last? Thought there are likely to be members with experience of this.
Cheers
Steve
Have removed cast iron exhaust manifold from my 350i and there is a small hole in it (about 2 cm long and 3mm wide.There seem to be all sorts of conflicting opinions on the web Can anybody advise if it is worth having it repaired, or is it not likely to last? Thought there are likely to be members with experience of this.
Cheers
Steve
Hi mate...If thats the only weak point then it would be worth welding..The other options are expensive to say the least...As with most things TVR the headers are not an off the shelf item..The flanges were...
Stainless is the way to go but mild is the cheaper alternative...Its then finding someone to make them who won't rip your arms and legs off and still shaft you in the rear!....
Stainless is the way to go but mild is the cheaper alternative...Its then finding someone to make them who won't rip your arms and legs off and still shaft you in the rear!....
If its close to the flanges (hottest) then the key factor is how much metal (thickness) is left as its easy to blow holes through it when Mig welding. As mentioned getting replacements in MS is difficult and expensive, a SS set from ACT is about a grand incl. While you are saving up for it ....... I have been told that the use of "Liquid Metal" due to its high temp characteristics has varying results depending on the size of the crack / hole. On my old set I had a pin hole in it, so I put a SS self tapper into it! :-)
Chris
Chris
Well if these are definitely the cast manifolds (as fitted on the SD1 and the early 350i's) then you may need to get a new one.
Cast iron is notoriously hard to repair. The suggestion of brazing may be OK until you run it under load, then the brazing material is likely to soften and/or melt and blow out. The alternatives are likely to be quite poorly attached and drop out anyway. Given the size of the hole maybe the best bet is to plug it with a fillet of mild steel or stainless, ground down to be a snug fit, then weld blobs onto it from both the inside and the outside, that way it will plug the hole when hot and not be able to drop out.
Once welded in place any pinholes can be filled with exhaust sealant paste.
On the other hand if it's a milt steel tubular one, it's a piece of piss, get the mig welder on it.
Cast iron is notoriously hard to repair. The suggestion of brazing may be OK until you run it under load, then the brazing material is likely to soften and/or melt and blow out. The alternatives are likely to be quite poorly attached and drop out anyway. Given the size of the hole maybe the best bet is to plug it with a fillet of mild steel or stainless, ground down to be a snug fit, then weld blobs onto it from both the inside and the outside, that way it will plug the hole when hot and not be able to drop out.
Once welded in place any pinholes can be filled with exhaust sealant paste.
On the other hand if it's a milt steel tubular one, it's a piece of piss, get the mig welder on it.
adam quantrill said:
The suggestion of brazing may be OK until you run it under load, then the brazing material is likely to soften and/or melt and blow out.
Braze melts at something like 800 degrees C. Should be quite adequate for a "normal" non turbo road engine.I've had no issues with the repairs to the mild steel tubular manifolds on my V6 S series
rev-erend said:
Very close in cost to ACT incl of the VaThttp://www.actproducts.co.uk/product/ms10-wedge-v8...
Thanks for all the comments, as I said, very much mixed opinions. The hole is close to the flange but I only do 1000 miles a year, so taking all into account (especially the cost of replacement), I think it might be worth trying a repair which may last a while. I thought TVR parts may produce some mild steel ones at reasonable cost, but there doesn't seem to be the same consideration given to wedges as some of the other models, which is a shame. Thanks again for all your contributions.
Steve
Steve
Jack Valiant said:
rev-erend said:
Very close in cost to ACT incl of the VaThttp://www.actproducts.co.uk/product/ms10-wedge-v8...
phillpot said:
adam quantrill said:
The suggestion of brazing may be OK until you run it under load, then the brazing material is likely to soften and/or melt and blow out.
Braze melts at something like 800 degrees C. Should be quite adequate for a "normal" non turbo road engine.I've had no issues with the repairs to the mild steel tubular manifolds on my V6 S series
RubbishFettler said:
I thought TVR parts may produce some mild steel ones at reasonable cost, but there doesn't seem to be the same consideration given to wedges as some of the other models, which is a shame. Thanks again for all your contributions.
There has always been more money in the later models for traders..Thats a fact...Although we are small links in the TVR chain we are still links so we won't get forgotten about, At some point all parts for TVR's will be available through TVR parts ltd..Suppliers of genuine TVR parts.....Its just going to take time for the requirement to be met....I know we won't get left out as Mr Edgar contacted me the other day and asked if they could take Poppy and plant an LS9 in her but i told him to do one....Why would i want an LS9 in my Wedge...Although the supercharged option was appetising....
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
We used to weld up cast iron fireplaces sometimes when i worked for an antique fireplace shop...Well its not welding as such its called "Brazing" or realistically called "Soldering"..We used bronze rods a blow torch and you have to heat the cast up slowly then when its glowing cherry red you can turn up the gas..I think you can use Brass..Copper..Nickel rods also but we always used the bronze...
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