Identify this mortar, please!
Discussion
I have recently cleaned the paving at the back of my house and although there was some motar breaking up in places, predictably now there is more!
This is how the paving now looks, (apologies for the pictures at 90degrees, they weren't before being uploaded)
Up close,
And a few areas like this, with some gaps not as deep but running almost the width of a stone.
Question being, what is the motar and how close a match can I get these days as id like to get it re-pointed / repaired. Considering the paving was laid 20-23 years ago I believe, its done well but now needs a little refresh.
Thanks,
This is how the paving now looks, (apologies for the pictures at 90degrees, they weren't before being uploaded)
Up close,
And a few areas like this, with some gaps not as deep but running almost the width of a stone.
Question being, what is the motar and how close a match can I get these days as id like to get it re-pointed / repaired. Considering the paving was laid 20-23 years ago I believe, its done well but now needs a little refresh.
Thanks,
I'd suggest chopping all that out and replacing with a modern epoxy mortar, https://www.pavingexpert.com/jointing12
I can't help with the type I'm afraid, I'm just posting as my plans this bank holiday weekend are to do the same to the flagging in my garden.
Similar to yourself, mine has been in place 20 years and its full of missing jointing with weeds & grass growing through.
I was going to use a 4:1 mix, but can see there are various products on the market - confused as to what to go for!
Similar to yourself, mine has been in place 20 years and its full of missing jointing with weeds & grass growing through.
I was going to use a 4:1 mix, but can see there are various products on the market - confused as to what to go for!
Drumroll said:
Just to be pedantic 4:1 mortar is not a strong mix and whilst it is acceptable for use in brickwork my own feeling is that it is not really durable enough for patio's. My own feeling would be use a patio pointing compound. But clearing out the old one will be fun.
It depends really, going too strong can create it's own problems particularly if the flags are flexibly bedded. As a general principle the mortar should not be stronger than the material so 1:4 is a good safe bet and with SBR added it ought to be fine for a range of conditions. The use of concreting sand will also add notional strength to the mix over a sharp/rendering sand and permit a lower water:cement ratioI made a start on mine yesterday.
Purchased a mortar rake for the grinder - absolute godsend, however - its going to take a very......very long time.
Spent 7 hours yesterday raking out a section and re-jointing, I'm about 20% done, so in my estimation its going to take another 25-30 hours.
That said, it looks a damn sight better - no weeds, grass growing through. Hopefully it lasts 5 years, as that's when I plan to change the garden completely.
Purchased a mortar rake for the grinder - absolute godsend, however - its going to take a very......very long time.
Spent 7 hours yesterday raking out a section and re-jointing, I'm about 20% done, so in my estimation its going to take another 25-30 hours.
That said, it looks a damn sight better - no weeds, grass growing through. Hopefully it lasts 5 years, as that's when I plan to change the garden completely.
Quick suggestion, what I do when removing pointing from paving and it’s quite hard, rather than grind it away, I use a diamond cutting disc to cut a groove down the middle of the joint, then usually the pointing can be removed in long strips with a hammer. I use my 9’’ grinder but it should work with 115 one if that’s all you have.
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