Brake and Fuel lines inside? (mk1)
Discussion
Decided that as my car is pretty low and might see some rally action at some point soon, whilst having the subframes off to play with, I might as well repipe indoors (as well as adding a hydraulic handbrake #2). Several of you guys have done it. I also aim to put the bias valve (adjustable mk1 jobby) indoors as well. Where is the best place to pipe through, to save me having to bother myself. Are there any pitfalls to watch out for?
This car is going to be interesting
This car is going to be interesting
Cara Jynwyth said:
Decided that as my car is pretty low and might see some rally action at some point soon, whilst having the subframes off to play with, I might as well repipe indoors (as well as adding a hydraulic handbrake #2). Several of you guys have done it. I also aim to put the bias valve (adjustable mk1 jobby) indoors as well. Where is the best place to pipe through, to save me having to bother myself. Are there any pitfalls to watch out for?
This car is going to be interesting
getting through the front and rear bulkead areas gets interesting, remember the 1960's, remember the Kinks?This car is going to be interesting
No matter how hard you try Kunifer will kink around tight bends whilst you try and pull/push it through.
At the back it's best to kep the battery cable away from the subframe. I go up and through the rear seat bulkhead, then across the bulkhead, forward, then down into the space under the seat base where the vertical section is. I like to run the batt cable along the centre of the car to protect it in case of a heavy side impact in competition. I fit the FIA master switch between the seats then run the cable up the front bulkhead, behind the heater box, across a bit further inside, then turn it to go through the front bulkheadjust outboard of the brake and clutch cylinders. At every place where it passes through a steel bulkhead I run it through a piece of heater hose fixed in place with a blob of RTV.
In the case of the brake lines you will find that there is enough space to run the line forward just over the top of the subframe to the left of centre. Then bring it into the car and run it across the vertical panel under the base of the rear seats. I normally keep it on the other side of the tunnel from the battery lead all the way to the front bulkhead, up the centre of the bulkhead, turn right and go behind the heater box and through the front bulkhead near the brake & clutch cylinders.
The fuel line must be one complete pipe inside the car with no joints at all. I run it adjacent to the brake pipe all the way to the front bulkhead, then through the bulkhead just below where the heater cables pass through the bulkhead.
Don't forget to 'P-clip' all the pipes in place.
It's lovely attacking a stage on rough gravel and not having to worry about brake, fuel or battery lines getting ripped off.
In the case of the brake lines you will find that there is enough space to run the line forward just over the top of the subframe to the left of centre. Then bring it into the car and run it across the vertical panel under the base of the rear seats. I normally keep it on the other side of the tunnel from the battery lead all the way to the front bulkhead, up the centre of the bulkhead, turn right and go behind the heater box and through the front bulkhead near the brake & clutch cylinders.
The fuel line must be one complete pipe inside the car with no joints at all. I run it adjacent to the brake pipe all the way to the front bulkhead, then through the bulkhead just below where the heater cables pass through the bulkhead.
Don't forget to 'P-clip' all the pipes in place.
It's lovely attacking a stage on rough gravel and not having to worry about brake, fuel or battery lines getting ripped off.
Good advice so far. My chum Lukey (who is pipes master) is doing the piping and it will be a work of art, the snag is where to put them. I will be on cups of tea duty I expect. Not sure what he plans to do it in, but it's the stuff you can't bend twice (ie:-not copper). I have taken the hydro suspension off as it was a pain and those pipes are thankfully not there.
Cheers Chaps
Cheers Chaps
Cooperman said:
At the back it's best to kep the battery cable away from the subframe. I go up and through the rear seat bulkhead, then across the bulkhead, forward, then down into the space under the seat base where the vertical section is. I like to run the batt cable along the centre of the car to protect it in case of a heavy side impact in competition. I fit the FIA master switch between the seats then run the cable up the front bulkhead, behind the heater box, across a bit further inside, then turn it to go through the front bulkheadjust outboard of the brake and clutch cylinders. At every place where it passes through a steel bulkhead I run it through a piece of heater hose fixed in place with a blob of RTV.
In the case of the brake lines you will find that there is enough space to run the line forward just over the top of the subframe to the left of centre. Then bring it into the car and run it across the vertical panel under the base of the rear seats. I normally keep it on the other side of the tunnel from the battery lead all the way to the front bulkhead, up the centre of the bulkhead, turn right and go behind the heater box and through the front bulkhead near the brake & clutch cylinders.
The fuel line must be one complete pipe inside the car with no joints at all. I run it adjacent to the brake pipe all the way to the front bulkhead, then through the bulkhead just below where the heater cables pass through the bulkhead.
Don't forget to 'P-clip' all the pipes in place.
It's lovely attacking a stage on rough gravel and not having to worry about brake, fuel or battery lines getting ripped off.
Ditto re battery cableIn the case of the brake lines you will find that there is enough space to run the line forward just over the top of the subframe to the left of centre. Then bring it into the car and run it across the vertical panel under the base of the rear seats. I normally keep it on the other side of the tunnel from the battery lead all the way to the front bulkhead, up the centre of the bulkhead, turn right and go behind the heater box and through the front bulkhead near the brake & clutch cylinders.
The fuel line must be one complete pipe inside the car with no joints at all. I run it adjacent to the brake pipe all the way to the front bulkhead, then through the bulkhead just below where the heater cables pass through the bulkhead.
Don't forget to 'P-clip' all the pipes in place.
It's lovely attacking a stage on rough gravel and not having to worry about brake, fuel or battery lines getting ripped off.
Roughly ditto the rest but I tried to get the fuel & brake lines up into the space under the rear seat, but above the horizontal steel panel, through the bulkhead, and the brake line then went through the boot floor whilst the fuel line went to the pump, mounted on the bulkhead in the boot next to the tank.
Kinksville I screamed a few times but had enough spare to escape.
ps pump on the rear bulkhead resonates inside car so don't do that either.
wont go on too much as good answers above.
i recently redid the pipes in my racer as my ocd reared its head about the old ones!
with the fuel it needs to be a one piece run, i made mine from 5/16 and it was a swine to get all the bends, bent and looking good. i found that cutting short lengths of pipe and having test runs helped.
my brakes are a work of art - they took all day, but are virtually hidden(as is the fuel pipe, in a bare race car!) the brake valve is attached near the pedal box and all the pipes in the engine bay are 'out the way'
it took a hell of a lot of thinking!
one thing i did 'wrong' on mine was that in my obsession for neatness the pipes go between the sills and the front legs of the cage. in a accident this could theoretically trap the fuel pipe between the body work and the cage and burst it.
the way i see it is that if ive got my racer into a situation where this is going to be a problem, i will have bigger problems to worry about! - its worth mentioning it though as other disaplins (rallying , pete?) may find it more of a issue!
the battery cable is the easiest, though again mine is well place so that its hidden in the engine bay.
can sort some photos if you want
i recently redid the pipes in my racer as my ocd reared its head about the old ones!
with the fuel it needs to be a one piece run, i made mine from 5/16 and it was a swine to get all the bends, bent and looking good. i found that cutting short lengths of pipe and having test runs helped.
my brakes are a work of art - they took all day, but are virtually hidden(as is the fuel pipe, in a bare race car!) the brake valve is attached near the pedal box and all the pipes in the engine bay are 'out the way'
it took a hell of a lot of thinking!
one thing i did 'wrong' on mine was that in my obsession for neatness the pipes go between the sills and the front legs of the cage. in a accident this could theoretically trap the fuel pipe between the body work and the cage and burst it.
the way i see it is that if ive got my racer into a situation where this is going to be a problem, i will have bigger problems to worry about! - its worth mentioning it though as other disaplins (rallying , pete?) may find it more of a issue!
the battery cable is the easiest, though again mine is well place so that its hidden in the engine bay.
can sort some photos if you want
Photos would be nice.
If you could whack some photos up, it would be good to see your respective efforts, as well as giving us petrolheads something to say "Yeah, Nice" to.
I'll post pics of mine as it progresses.
Unsure how we're going to route it as yet but the rear will have adjustable bias and have a hydraulic autotest style handbrake.
If you could whack some photos up, it would be good to see your respective efforts, as well as giving us petrolheads something to say "Yeah, Nice" to.
I'll post pics of mine as it progresses.
Unsure how we're going to route it as yet but the rear will have adjustable bias and have a hydraulic autotest style handbrake.
I like to run all 3 down the centre tunnel rather than along the sides to prevent sideways acident damage causing any problems. I put the master switch between the seats as well so that either crew member can easily reach it - likewise with the extinguisher.
Also, I don't like the fuel pump inside the boot (inside the car is not allowed now unless it's in a fully sealed compartment. The thought of twin high-pressure Facit pumps in the boot with twin tanks holding up to 11 gallons is not nice to contemplate should I go off backwards into a tree! I seal the battery so far as is possible too. My fuel pumps on the rally car sit under the rear seat horizontal panel inside the sub-frame and are shielded by a 4 mm sheet of aluminium. Having a centre-exit exhaust makes this possible.
Also, I don't like the fuel pump inside the boot (inside the car is not allowed now unless it's in a fully sealed compartment. The thought of twin high-pressure Facit pumps in the boot with twin tanks holding up to 11 gallons is not nice to contemplate should I go off backwards into a tree! I seal the battery so far as is possible too. My fuel pumps on the rally car sit under the rear seat horizontal panel inside the sub-frame and are shielded by a 4 mm sheet of aluminium. Having a centre-exit exhaust makes this possible.
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