Going to look at an MR2 tubby tomorrow
Discussion
Specifically this one:
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/318767.htm
Opinions?
on the understanding that they have the original engine cover (no mock-Toms airscoops please) and wheels
Actually the wheels might look better in the flesh, but from the photos im unconvinced. Do you think those wheels would be worth anything on ebay? Otherwise I will swap the originals back on and leave them.
Also, does anyone know this car?
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/318767.htm
Opinions?
on the understanding that they have the original engine cover (no mock-Toms airscoops please) and wheels
Actually the wheels might look better in the flesh, but from the photos im unconvinced. Do you think those wheels would be worth anything on ebay? Otherwise I will swap the originals back on and leave them.
Also, does anyone know this car?
I don't know the car but it looks nice - white really suits the MR2.
I agree with you on the wheels - they look a bit naff. They look like Kahn wheels with no dish and look out of place on the MR2. I think you might get something for them on ebay.
The nicest aftermarket wheels are JDM wheels with a deep dish. I reckon gunmetal wheels would look terrific on that car.
Regarding the Nur Spec exhaust - be warned, they're pretty loud, even at lowish revs.
Good luck tomorrow.
I agree with you on the wheels - they look a bit naff. They look like Kahn wheels with no dish and look out of place on the MR2. I think you might get something for them on ebay.
The nicest aftermarket wheels are JDM wheels with a deep dish. I reckon gunmetal wheels would look terrific on that car.
Regarding the Nur Spec exhaust - be warned, they're pretty loud, even at lowish revs.
Good luck tomorrow.
Edited by torres del paine on Friday 21st December 10:06
Well we couldnt agree a price, obviously my cash isnt good enough
it was a nice car, but a few questions like "any service receipts since its been in the UK? Cambelt been done?" etc were met with stony silence. Also, that nur-spec exhaust is retardedly loud. It sounds like open headers.
it was a nice car, but a few questions like "any service receipts since its been in the UK? Cambelt been done?" etc were met with stony silence. Also, that nur-spec exhaust is retardedly loud. It sounds like open headers.
yeah the nur spec is a loud exhaust, something like the dep2 gives a nice exhaust note, if it had just been imported then there would not be much history, 4k is about right for the car, i cant remember how many miles its done,
on the timming belt cover there might be a sticker to when it was changed...if done in japan, also check what boost its running if its got a ebc, and check all the suspension components, the gear changes, notchy gears can not always be gearbox but cables/bushes and cable cost about 125 each, irrc theres 2 or 3... check under the space saver wheel and near the front of the front boot should be all stright if not its been involved in accident thats a spot where they can show, the orange indicators can be replaced with pre colour coded blanking strips from toyota,
if you get the timing belt done, change the waterpump to, check how much oil is in the intake tract, traces of oil is normal..but excessive oil can be a number of things, blow by etc etc...
thats a GTS check it deos have abs, make sure theres not an empty hole under the wheel arches, abs was optional, check all the electrics from door locks, to lecy windows, aircon, check the aircon has not been removed to save weight, any clonking is normaly drop links, check for smoke on boost, boost should be on rev3 if it has not boost controller about 8 psi in gears 1 & 2 and around 10 psi in 3,4,5 irrc. if it still has the stock boost gauge it will go up just after half way in the first 2 gears and 3/4 on 3,4,5 irrc. mr2s are prone to binding calipers so check it brakes in a stright line, i think thats everything, i sold my mr2 about 5 months
on the timming belt cover there might be a sticker to when it was changed...if done in japan, also check what boost its running if its got a ebc, and check all the suspension components, the gear changes, notchy gears can not always be gearbox but cables/bushes and cable cost about 125 each, irrc theres 2 or 3... check under the space saver wheel and near the front of the front boot should be all stright if not its been involved in accident thats a spot where they can show, the orange indicators can be replaced with pre colour coded blanking strips from toyota,
if you get the timing belt done, change the waterpump to, check how much oil is in the intake tract, traces of oil is normal..but excessive oil can be a number of things, blow by etc etc...
thats a GTS check it deos have abs, make sure theres not an empty hole under the wheel arches, abs was optional, check all the electrics from door locks, to lecy windows, aircon, check the aircon has not been removed to save weight, any clonking is normaly drop links, check for smoke on boost, boost should be on rev3 if it has not boost controller about 8 psi in gears 1 & 2 and around 10 psi in 3,4,5 irrc. if it still has the stock boost gauge it will go up just after half way in the first 2 gears and 3/4 on 3,4,5 irrc. mr2s are prone to binding calipers so check it brakes in a stright line, i think thats everything, i sold my mr2 about 5 months
Its a tin top, great and appeal to people like me who'd buy it to be a track car, BUT people like me are very very much the minority. 99% of people will ignore tin tops and only look at T bars. Tin Tops as a result traditionally command a good £1000 less than T bar equivalents, most good condition T bars will go for £3800 ish so making a Tin top worth closer to £3000.
You either need inch spacers on the rear, or idealy, get rid of those wheels and get proper staggered alloys.
Engine bay looks clean, boost pipes have new hoses though.
Scoop is easy to swap out .. should be two bolts and about 2/3 screws. Make sure you check the roof underneath it though, bad fitting replicas tend to scratch the paintwork.
Engine bay looks clean, boost pipes have new hoses though.
Scoop is easy to swap out .. should be two bolts and about 2/3 screws. Make sure you check the roof underneath it though, bad fitting replicas tend to scratch the paintwork.
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