Recalcitrant Flywheel

[clynos1]

Hi, I started the day with the false imprecation that taking the flywheel off of a SBC and replacing the G50 adaptor plate and starter with an adaptor and starter for my 996 box would be easy, not so!!
Having tried various pullers, shovers and levers it still remains in place, anyone got any good ideas....please
David

[GTWayne]

Apply some heat to the flywheel around the fixing holes and use a puller to remove the flywheel. It may be worth spraying the area of contact with penetrating oil and leaving to soak for a while first.

[Ordinary Bloke]

10 out of 10 for the title. And you got a triple word score too, you must've played a lot of scrabble...

[Boosted LS1]

^ I noticed that to, impressive isn't it but he still can't get his flywheel off, lol. Needs a mechanic. Seriously folks, it's easy. Suspend engine vertically in the air by the flywheel. Place a soft pillow on floor under the engine. Get the gorilla on the tvr minder thread to hit crank with a hammer, preferably a big hammer. Jobs a good un, watch out in case the engine does a little bounce

[Steve_D]

As Wayne said.
Heat in a circle just outside of the ring of bolts.

You have removed the bolts? Sorry, thought I would ask before someone else jumped in.

Steve

[clynos1]

Yes Steve bolts are out, it's moved 1/8" but no more. Will try again tomorrow.
David

[Boosted LS1]

clynos1 said:

Yes Steve bolts are out, it's moved 1/8" but no more. Will try again tomorrow.
David

If it's moved then it's not sitting true. Knock it true and then start again.

[GreenV8S]

A lesson learned removing steering wheels is to leave the nut loosely fitted to catch the wheel when it finally comes loose, to avoid smacking yourself in the face with it. Does a similar technique apply when removing flywheels by brute force?

[738 driver]

When persuading with z hammer.........not too hard as its not good for the crank, thrust washers etc. Heat is best, also first, try to gently wind it back on with its retaining bolts using a speedbrace and make sure you dont have a burr (slight rust, etc) thats causing the problem.

[clynos1]

Well I've tried again and still no movement, I've reset the flywheel and started again as suggested, I tried various pullers, I've heated it, sworn at it ...... so it must be time for Boosteds suggestion, soft pillows are to hand!!! One final thought is there a special puller I should be using and where is the ideal location for the puller?
Thwarted of Winterslow

[gtr-gaz]

David, I made mine own puller when I had to send that very engine away to be rebuilt.

IIRC, it was a piece of 2" box iron (just a bit longer than the width of the flywheel), with a 1" pipe socket welded at the centre. I then drilled two holes in each end of the box iron to line up with two of the threaded holes on the flywheel.
It was a case of of winding the two bolts through the box iron and into the flywheel.
Does that make sense?

Don't think I have it anymore though, did not need it again after that.

[Ordinary Bloke]

You have to keep the flywheel perpendicular to the shaft all the time, or it'll get jammed. Do you have a picture, with the puller in place, that you can post? Maybe someone will be able to suggest what's going wrong...

[Boosted LS1]

clynos1 said:

Well I've tried again and still no movement, I've reset the flywheel and started again as suggested, I tried various pullers, I've heated it, sworn at it ...... so it must be time for Boosteds suggestion, soft pillows are to hand!!! One final thought is there a special puller I should be using and where is the ideal location for the puller?
Thwarted of Winterslow

Definately don't try my suggestion! You'll end up with a bent crank if the engine drops to the floor.

The fact that you're able to reset the flywheel indicates that it will move. I'm sure it's just a case of pulling it off while keeping it straight if you see what I mean. As others have said, maybe there's dirt on the crank or a slight burr that needs rubbing down.

Where is Winterslow?

[Captain Slog]

The problem with heating the flywheel is that you only have a limited amount of time before the thermal transfer to the shaft negates any benefits made in metal expansion, once the shaft starts to expand as well you are back between a rock and a hard place.
Try heating the flywheel as normal to expand it, (clever bit) then target the shaft a few mm out from the flywheel with liquid propane, the type you fill lighters with, just press the nozzle onto the shaft and let it have it, the evaporating propane will start to contract the shaft. You now have twice the amount of metal movement albeit in opposite directions.

Hope this helps

Steve

Edited by Captain Slog on Tuesday 29th July 17:28

[clynos1]

Boosted, Winterslow is on the outskirts of Salisbury in Wiltshire.

[Boosted LS1]

clynos1 said:

Boosted, Winterslow is on the outskirts of Salisbury in Wiltshire.

Ok, I'd hoped it may have been a bit more local to me. I'm sure with a bit of perseverance it'll come off.

[738 driver]

Do you have any brake cleaner (aerosol type)? I'd nip the flywheel back up and give the end of the crank/ flywheel boss a good clean with it, you might be able to see the problem or it may resolve it. Clutch dust gets everywhere and just like brake dust, can cause lots of minor seizures of surrounding parts. Good luck.

[clynos1]

IT'S OFF ..... At long last the flywheel is off. Made another puller that worked this time!
Many thanks for the thought Boosted and to all the others that gave advice and suggestions
David

[Boosted LS1]

Great news, so do you know what was causing the stiction?

[clynos1]

Nothing that I could see, just a build up of crud I expect.
Still, Getrag Adaptor Plate, Starter and 996 Clutch now fitted, just waiting for the box to come back from Gbox in the US.
David