Air Fuel Ratio Controller/Sensor

Air Fuel Ratio Controller/Sensor

Author
Discussion

Graham-P

Original Poster:

1,548 posts

247 months

Tuesday 29th July 2008
quotequote all
My digital dash supports a AFR meter and I'm thinking of installing one.
Looking at the company's website (ETB) they use the Innovate LC1 controller etc, but on reading the Innovate forum looks like they are problematic, does any one run the Innovate LC1 AFR or can recommend another from experience?
LuckyP what did you install?

LuckyP

6,243 posts

226 months

Tuesday 29th July 2008
quotequote all
Innovate kit # 2:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/kits.p...

LC-1 sensor, XD-16 guage and a SSI-4 interface (not used at present)

No probs getting to work......just need to know what it means now smile

Pb3

1,064 posts

247 months

Tuesday 29th July 2008
quotequote all
I've been using the LC-1 connected to my megaSquirt for the last two+ years (for EFI) with no probs, not heard of any either, providing they are wired up correctly!

andygtt

8,345 posts

265 months

Tuesday 29th July 2008
quotequote all
dont it will just add to your stress like the fuel pressure guage did...

LuckyP

6,243 posts

226 months

Tuesday 29th July 2008
quotequote all
Sorry to butt in, but am I correct in thinking that:

14.7 is best for economy and being a greeny...[yawn]

and

12.8 to 13.2 is about on the money for best power?




GreenV8S

30,223 posts

285 months

Tuesday 29th July 2008
quotequote all
I use an Innovate LC1 and haven't had any problems with it so far, but that type does seem to get quite a lot of criticism. There are various alternatives that seem to get far better press, Zetronix is the first one that springs to mind.

CanAm Dave

939 posts

225 months

Tuesday 29th July 2008
quotequote all
Hi Graham

I now run two LC-1s in my car with no problems. I did have a problem with the gauge within a few weeks of fitting it but that was replaced under warranty. They are a popular fit in motorsports and I have not known of many issues with them.

Regards Dave

andygtt

8,345 posts

265 months

Tuesday 29th July 2008
quotequote all
I beleive lean is best for power and fuel economy but on a SBC is likelly to spell serious danger as you gota have very close control to prevent detonation...... rich is much safer and the norm on the SBC.

Steve_D

13,749 posts

259 months

Tuesday 29th July 2008
quotequote all
LuckyP said:
Sorry to butt in, but am I correct in thinking that:

14.7 is best for economy and being a greeny...[yawn]

and

12.8 to 13.2 is about on the money for best power?
14.7 will give the best compromise between power and economy/environment.
12 to 13 will be good for power.
For max economy/environment some say you can go out to 16 in no load cruise but that will be more difficult to control (efi) and will likely have pick-up issues as you try to accelerate away from the cruise.

I also have an LC1 but have had, and am still having, issues with mine.

Steve

NickQuick

31 posts

192 months

Tuesday 29th July 2008
quotequote all
Fitting an AFR system is on my mind just now. My wife has been driving round behind my Can-am with the air-con in her car set to recirculation, the Can-am fuel fumes are so strong ! I am new to Ultimas but my MPG seems to be low even for a SBC 383, I haven’t worked it out yet (I almost don't want to know) but I think were talking sub 10 mpg whilst driving in cruise mode.

I am planning to fit an AFR system to see what’s going off with the mixture and possibly I might look at running a closed loop lambda setup on my ECU. My ECU supplier, Emerald, have recommended Edgetech AFR systems. Has anyone had any experience with them ?

http://trigger-wheels.com/store/index1.html

Nick.





Scuffers

20,887 posts

275 months

Wednesday 30th July 2008
quotequote all
LC-1's are cheap and mostly OK, used many of them, one or two have had issues out the box, but they have just been replaced.

as for what you should be aiming for, assuming you have a CAT, then you HAVE to run Lambda 1 (14.7 A/F for petrol) at idle and light to medium loads.

At medium to high loads, it's down to the engines charicteristics, but it will usually want to be somewhere between 12 and 13 (to 1 A/F).

An increasing number of ECU's now have target Lambda mapps, so you can pre-set what lambda target you are aiming for and they will adjust the fueling to meet the target (and then store the corrections requred etc etc).

assuming you have to pass an MOT emmissions test, they measure CO and HC, but also check that the engine is running at lambda 1 (14.7 A/F).

riskes of running outside of these numbers are:

too rich (as in 11 and lower) you will wash the bores of oil, accelerating engine wear and also contaminating the oil in the sump, along with sooting up the CAT etc.

too lean (as in Higher than 14.7 at medium loads or 13 at high loads) and you risk overheating the pistons and pushing the engine into detonation, you will also heat up the exhaust and CAT massively.


LuckyP

6,243 posts

226 months

Wednesday 30th July 2008
quotequote all
Scuffers said:
...as for what you should be aiming for, assuming you have a CAT, then you HAVE to run Lambda 1 (14.7 A/F for petrol) at idle and light to medium loads.

At medium to high loads, it's down to the engines charicteristics, but it will usually want to be somewhere between 12 and 13 (to 1 A/F)....
Scuffers, do those figures change if you don't have CATs? Don't think the OP has one and I know I don't.

Scuffers

20,887 posts

275 months

Wednesday 30th July 2008
quotequote all
LuckyP said:
Scuffers said:
...as for what you should be aiming for, assuming you have a CAT, then you HAVE to run Lambda 1 (14.7 A/F for petrol) at idle and light to medium loads.

At medium to high loads, it's down to the engines charicteristics, but it will usually want to be somewhere between 12 and 13 (to 1 A/F)....
Scuffers, do those figures change if you don't have CATs? Don't think the OP has one and I know I don't.
only what you would want to run at idle/light loads...

if you can get the engine to run cleanly at 15-16 AF then it's going to save some fuel, the problem is that you need a good designed engine to run cleanly at this level of leaness. Every engine (type) is different in how they respond to A/F and timming.

14.7 is a safe bet, so start there.

LuckyP

6,243 posts

226 months

Wednesday 30th July 2008
quotequote all
Scuffers said:
LuckyP said:
Scuffers said:
...as for what you should be aiming for, assuming you have a CAT, then you HAVE to run Lambda 1 (14.7 A/F for petrol) at idle and light to medium loads.

At medium to high loads, it's down to the engines charicteristics, but it will usually want to be somewhere between 12 and 13 (to 1 A/F)....
Scuffers, do those figures change if you don't have CATs? Don't think the OP has one and I know I don't.
only what you would want to run at idle/light loads...

if you can get the engine to run cleanly at 15-16 AF then it's going to save some fuel, the problem is that you need a good designed engine to run cleanly at this level of leaness. Every engine (type) is different in how they respond to A/F and timming.

14.7 is a safe bet, so start there.
I'll drop a video of a run. With different throttle levels.

I've never seen mine go aove 14 yet, or lower than 11.

jschwartz

836 posts

259 months

Thursday 31st July 2008
quotequote all
I use an Innovate wideband unit for tuning.
You can't have any exhaust leaks or the readings will be inaccurate of what the engine is actually running at, slip joints or anything that leaks upstream from the O2 is trouble.

LuckyP

6,243 posts

226 months

Thursday 31st July 2008
quotequote all
jschwartz said:
I use an Innovate wideband unit for tuning.
You can't have any exhaust leaks or the readings will be inaccurate of what the engine is actually running at, slip joints or anything that leaks upstream from the O2 is trouble.
Jeff, what AFR do you tune to and at what stage of throttle/load on carbed SBC?