Steering bearing guide

Steering bearing guide

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Discussion

Rozza!!!

Original Poster:

654 posts

277 months

Monday 24th November 2003
quotequote all
I've written a guide on changing the steering bearing. You can find it here: www.tvrcc-westyorks.co.uk/infopages/how_to/change_the_steering_column_bearing_on_an_s_series/doc.htm

Let me know what you guys think!

Roy.

Le TVR

3,092 posts

252 months

Tuesday 25th November 2003
quotequote all
Hmm.
I can see that your car and mine were not assembled by the same person!

My idea would not have worked on your car as the bush insert is reversed.

Also there should be a lock washer that goes over the triangular shaft and presses up against the plastic bush on the outside so that you cannot pull the steering column into the car?

I shall submit any further mechanical ideas with the disclaimer: "probably"

Good work tho'

Rozza!!!

Original Poster:

654 posts

277 months

Tuesday 25th November 2003
quotequote all
If the centre bush is in the other way then in theory it could come out of position (although I agree it probably would never happen due to its tightness in the bearing). I would be interested to see a pic of the arrangement on your car Le TVR.

I guess its another case of TVR couldn't make its mind up which way round some of the bits on the S should go.

Roy.

Rozza!!!

Original Poster:

654 posts

277 months

Tuesday 25th November 2003
quotequote all
Come on folks!!!! I want people to have a look and let me know how it compares to their experiences. Then I may be able to tweak it to make it even more useful.

Roy.

craigy

106 posts

254 months

Wednesday 26th November 2003
quotequote all
Brilliant!

It's given me the confidence to finally change mine, as with pictures etc, it doesn't seem such a bad job.

Nice one

Cheers, Craig

M@H

11,296 posts

273 months

Wednesday 26th November 2003
quotequote all
Yep.. looks pretty good to me.. I remember painstakingly getting the column back together and realising I was 120 degrees out on the steering, and then having to remove the clamp and do it again..

Matt.

rpage

354 posts

254 months

Wednesday 26th November 2003
quotequote all
Great stuff. Exactly as I remember it. I changed the top UJ at the same time. Sheared both bolts and took two days to drift the UJ off the spline..!!

M@H

11,296 posts

273 months

Wednesday 26th November 2003
quotequote all
rpage said:
Great stuff. Exactly as I remember it. I changed the top UJ at the same time. Sheared both bolts and took two days to drift the UJ off the spline..!!




How did you do that without removing the remains of the bolt..? did you drill it out or something..?

Cheers
Matt

rpage

354 posts

254 months

Wednesday 26th November 2003
quotequote all
I was lucky. The heads sheared off so the bolts weren't holding anything in place anymore. The big problem was drifting the UJ off the spline. I tried loads of penetrating oil and even a blow torch but eventually used a bloody great hammer. I was a bit worried about damaging the bottom UJ and the rack but it worked OK in the end.

M@H

11,296 posts

273 months

Wednesday 26th November 2003
quotequote all
I thought the bolt body when through a groove in the Spline section to keep the thing from coming apart.. or am I thinking of another UJ.. (I've seen a few)

Cheers
Matt

>> Edited by M@H on Wednesday 26th November 11:43

Rozza!!!

Original Poster:

654 posts

277 months

Wednesday 26th November 2003
quotequote all
M@H said:
Yep.. looks pretty good to me.. I remember painstakingly getting the column back together and realising I was 120 degrees out on the steering, and then having to remove the clamp and do it again..

Matt.


Did that too!

Thanks for the comments guys, I wasn't sure if anyone would find it any more useful than what is written in the bible about the subject. It always helps to have pictures showing you what it should look like at each stage.


Roy.

Rozza!!!

Original Poster:

654 posts

277 months

Wednesday 26th November 2003
quotequote all
M@H said:
I thought the bolt body when through a groove in the Spline section to keep the thing from coming apart.. or am I thinking of another UJ.. (I've seen a few)

Cheers
Matt

>> Edited by M@H on Wednesday 26th November 11:43



The bottom UJ is like that, but I don't know about the top one. It would follow that it would be the same but you never know with TVR.

Roy.

Eddyted to korrrekt stoopid spelin misstaik.

>> Edited by Rozza!!! on Wednesday 26th November 12:00

Pies

13,116 posts

257 months

Wednesday 26th November 2003
quotequote all
Rozza!!! said:
Come on folks!!!! I want people to have a look and let me know how it compares to their experiences. Then I may be able to tweak it to make it even more useful.

Roy.


Sorry can't comment as Tower View fitted mine

but pics always help

jchase

572 posts

260 months

Tuesday 13th January 2004
quotequote all
Hi guys,

I'm trying to fix that stupid steering bearing too, but on a 1980 Tasmin (sneaked over from the Wedge Forum). Does anyone know the ID/OD of the bearing? I plan on fitting a spherical bearing on mine, as the movement in the steering column will wear out a straight bearing in no time! (and a nylon one even quicker)

-Jim

Roy_S2

Original Poster:

654 posts

277 months

Tuesday 13th January 2004
quotequote all
Is the setup the same on the Tasmin?

Roy.

jchase

572 posts

260 months

Tuesday 13th January 2004
quotequote all
The steering on a Wedge is a bit more primative than an S. Mine has a TR7 column connected to a TVR bit and this wierd Nylon washer that could never hope to work , connected to some wierd UJ thing, possibly Triumph, then to a Cortina IV steering rack, and then on to Granda II rack ends and steering knuckles.

I called up Penninsular, to see what they have, but I suspect that the ID of the bearing will not be 3/4 inch. But maybe I can use the bearing holder with a fancy spherical bearing, which will take the tension out of the bulkhead firewall by adding some complance.
I think later Wedges use a Rover SD1 column, and bulkhead bearing, which has to be spherical, as the column moves up and down...(Unless they just flex the fibreglass - eek)

Anyway, nobody seems to make spherical bearings in flanged housings, tried RS,FARNELL, TAS, EUROPA, GPR, HOLDEN, and all the usual kit car suspects. If all else fails I'll just have to draw one and get it machined up.

-Jim.

Roy_S2

Original Poster:

654 posts

277 months

Tuesday 13th January 2004
quotequote all
I could be wrong but if there is movement on your steering coloumn, then there may be something amiss there and fixing that would then make using the standard bearing ok. I`m not really up on Wedges. You have put the same question in the Wedge forum have you not? You will most likely get a more accurate and helpful response.

Roy.

s1.5f

316 posts

256 months

Tuesday 13th January 2004
quotequote all
Am I right in thinking the older nylon version should now by replaced by the roller type? I have read that the only difference fitting it is that you need to drill the bolt holes in bulkhead... If this is true where's the best place to order one from (mail-order) or would my local main dealer (who also deals Skoda!) be able get one from TVR at a fixed price ie I don't want to pay a premium for using a main dealer!

pies

13,116 posts

257 months

Tuesday 13th January 2004
quotequote all
Bulkhead bearing approx £21 plus vat from Tower view for mine yours should be the same if not they will know

jchase

572 posts

260 months

Tuesday 13th January 2004
quotequote all
Is your steering loose? If not, I'd say leave it alone. On mine, if I remove the road wheel, and give a gentle tug on the top steering uj, it visibly waggles up and down, showing the free-play in the bearing. Infact if you waggle the steering wheel, you can hear the steering shaft hitting the bulkhead!

I posted a similar thread on the Wedge forum, which Steve Heath replied to, if you want more bona fide help.

-jim