Speaker wiring
Discussion
I'm just about to fit a new stereo to the car :
Alpine MRV-F357 5 channel amp
Focal PolyKevlar 6.5" components
JL Audio 10" Sub
I'm mounting the sub in the cubby hole as suggested by many on this forum, but I have a question regarding wiring
Whats the best cable routes for wiring - bear in mind that the speaker cable needs to be wired from an amp in the boot to the front doors, also need to run power from bonnet to boot, and RCA cables from head unit to amp - I'm thinking along the transmission tunnel, but am concerned with how to get the speaker cable to the doors, and how to get a power wire through to the battery.
Answers on a post card!
J
Alpine MRV-F357 5 channel amp
Focal PolyKevlar 6.5" components
JL Audio 10" Sub
I'm mounting the sub in the cubby hole as suggested by many on this forum, but I have a question regarding wiring
Whats the best cable routes for wiring - bear in mind that the speaker cable needs to be wired from an amp in the boot to the front doors, also need to run power from bonnet to boot, and RCA cables from head unit to amp - I'm thinking along the transmission tunnel, but am concerned with how to get the speaker cable to the doors, and how to get a power wire through to the battery.
Answers on a post card!
J
jimbob2 said:
I'm just about to fit a new stereo to the car :
Alpine MRV-F357 5 channel amp
Focal PolyKevlar 6.5" components
JL Audio 10" Sub
Nice kit
jimbob2 said:
I'm mounting the sub in the cubby hole as suggested by many on this forum, but I have a question regarding wiring
Whats the best cable routes for wiring - bear in mind that the speaker cable needs to be wired from an amp in the boot to the front doors, also need to run power from bonnet to boot, and RCA cables from head unit to amp - I'm thinking along the transmission tunnel, but am concerned with how to get the speaker cable to the doors, and how to get a power wire through to the battery.
Answers on a post card!
J
Right, I've not actually done a Cerbera but the principles are the same whatever the car so.....
Power - take your power cable with the fuse at the battery end and I'd run it down the passenger side of the car.
RCA Cables - run these down the other side, now I'm not sure whether the sides or the opposite sides of the tunnel will be best for this, but just try to keep any 'sound' cables away from the 'power' cable
Earth the amp to somewhere in the boot, but I imagine finding a good earth might be a bit tricky, I'd try and get to the chassis somehow but keep this cable a s short as possible
Hi.
First of all, why not get your power from the fuse box.., which is in the boot. That saves you an extra run of cable, and saves messing around getting it through the bulkhead.
All the cables run from the head unit, along the tunnel (under the trim) through the cubby hole, and into the boot to the amp. From the amp, the JL sub cable goes back into the cubby hole. The door speaker cables follow the same route, but continue back past the head unit, to each door. The only problem is getting the cable from the car, into the door. All rest is straight forward.
Amp is fastened to the inside of the boot wing. I can also remove the sub enclosure, should I need to get to the relays etc...
Hope this helps.
I earthed the amp to seatbelt bolt inside the cubbyhole.
>> Edited by kojak69 on Tuesday 16th December 15:42
First of all, why not get your power from the fuse box.., which is in the boot. That saves you an extra run of cable, and saves messing around getting it through the bulkhead.
All the cables run from the head unit, along the tunnel (under the trim) through the cubby hole, and into the boot to the amp. From the amp, the JL sub cable goes back into the cubby hole. The door speaker cables follow the same route, but continue back past the head unit, to each door. The only problem is getting the cable from the car, into the door. All rest is straight forward.
Amp is fastened to the inside of the boot wing. I can also remove the sub enclosure, should I need to get to the relays etc...
Hope this helps.
I earthed the amp to seatbelt bolt inside the cubbyhole.
>> Edited by kojak69 on Tuesday 16th December 15:42
kojak69 said:
Hi.
The door speaker cables follow the same route, but continue back past the head unit, to each door. The only problem is getting the cable from the car, into the door.
If you go past the existing cables from the head unit to the doors you could patch into them saving the hassle of threading 2 more cables into the door openings
Simple.
You dont need to take it off. You can push the cables underneath on each side. They dont fall out. I think if my memory serves me right, theres a screw each side of the trim somewhere, roughly near the gear lever, but on the bottom part where it touches the carpet. I took the drivers side off, but didnt need to on the passengers side. Just threaded it over.
The speaker cable just theads it way from the front of the tunnel, over the steering column, down the side of the door rubber, and out, through a hole (Purposely drilled) and into the door. As i said, this was the hardest bit, making it so that the cable doesnt get trapped when u shut the door. Up 2 now, all seems well.
>> Edited by kojak69 on Tuesday 16th December 16:25
You dont need to take it off. You can push the cables underneath on each side. They dont fall out. I think if my memory serves me right, theres a screw each side of the trim somewhere, roughly near the gear lever, but on the bottom part where it touches the carpet. I took the drivers side off, but didnt need to on the passengers side. Just threaded it over.
The speaker cable just theads it way from the front of the tunnel, over the steering column, down the side of the door rubber, and out, through a hole (Purposely drilled) and into the door. As i said, this was the hardest bit, making it so that the cable doesnt get trapped when u shut the door. Up 2 now, all seems well.
>> Edited by kojak69 on Tuesday 16th December 16:25
Regarding the door speakers. I changed the cable to the door speakers, so when I upgrade, I know they'll have decent cables. About to upgrade to some focals myself. How much did you pay 4 them if I may ask.
To take the door trim off is a piece of pi*s. There are about 8 allen screws holding it on to the door. Some underneath, some at the front and some on the back. Watch for the electric connector when you pull it away from the car.
To take the door trim off is a piece of pi*s. There are about 8 allen screws holding it on to the door. Some underneath, some at the front and some on the back. Watch for the electric connector when you pull it away from the car.
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