block paving & weeds/grass !!

[IceBoy]

Hi All,

I need help.

The driveway I had laid about 3 years ago, now has small amounts of grassing growing from where the blocks meet each other.

I think this has happened mainly because, when I cut the lawn, grass goes over some of the drive. I always sweep up but I guess small amounts over time have germinated!!

So my drive is is 4 car widths has grass growing !!

I have used some stuff from homebase which you mix and spread via watering can but this has not really worked that well.

Any suggestions, other than pressure washer and spending 2 days on it?

Thanks in advance.
IceBoy

[bogie]

most block paving does the same over the years ...seeds float past in the wind and grow in the cracks (not through it) thats normal "weathered" look for some

in recent years companies have sprung up offering to come and clean it up and seal it...so it looks new and shiny all the time....for a few years

...but from the quotes Ive had, its easier just to get the patio cleaner attachment on the Karcher, spend an hour on it ...then patchclear weed killer twice a year...that works for mine anyway...and certainly dosnt mean paying someone £1500 to come and seal it up LOL

[chr15b]

Will pathclear work on gravel? i've got weeds rather than grass coming out of the gravel section between the flags on the drive - tbh it's currently greener than the lawn!

[m3jappa]

Scrape joints out with a sharp tool as much as possible

Jet wash it with a powerful machine.

Let it dry out (bone dry) do not drive cars on it if it has no kiln sand in the joints.

Sweep in new kiln.

Sweep off every last bit of kiln.

Seal with a branded POLYURETHANE sealer - not water based as it will only last a year or so. Poly will last around 5 years. No more weeds.....

Believe me when you get expensive quotes its because it is in reality a nightmare job needing perfect weather, there is risk involved (if it rains it will ruin the paving) it could also take weeks to dry out and several visits to ensure its dry before being able to seal it, couple that to it being expensive (around £200 for enough to cover around 45m2)

Do what i tell my customers - DIY it its very easy to do but 'can' turn into a nightmare.

[dave_s13]

I did mine thusly - only a small area though.

- Jet wash all the crap out between the joints and also scrape out the stubborn bits.

- Mix up a 3-1 sharp sand/cement mix.

- Make sure the surface is drier than dry

- Sweep in the mixtures and make sure not a trace is left on the block surface.

- Wait for it to rain

The mix sets in the joins and makes it very difficuly for stuff to start growing in the cracks. Just make sure you sweep it clear every now and then with a stiff brush.

[Simpo Two]

chr15b said:

Will pathclear work on gravel? i've got weeds rather than grass coming out of the gravel section between the flags on the drive

Yes, it's a 'total residual' weedkiller so will kill all plants (total) and stay active in the soil (residual) for a season or two.

However IMHO using that kind of product on block paving is never great as much of it is wasted on the paving, not the cracks where you need it, and it might stain the surface (read the label/test an area first).

Edited by Simpo Two on Thursday 8th July 09:28

[MaxNg]

Had the same problem and solved it by using Pathclear - from Homebase at about £20 for 5 litres. The container is also the dispenser, and I nailed the weeks by spraying the cracks between the lock-block. A refill, without the dispenser, for the same amount is about £15. That was done about 4 weeks ago, and the weeds are now all crispy critters. There is also an "industrial-strength" version of Pathclear, which you won't get from a garden centre but from a farm supplies shop. Much more powerful; however, the Homebase stuff did the job for me.

[garycat]

dave_s13 said:

I did mine thusly - only a small area though.

- Jet wash all the crap out between the joints and also scrape out the stubborn bits.

- Mix up a 3-1 sharp sand/cement mix.

- Make sure the surface is drier than dry

- Sweep in the mixtures and make sure not a trace is left on the block surface.

- Wait for it to rain

The mix sets in the joins and makes it very difficuly for stuff to start growing in the cracks. Just make sure you sweep it clear every now and then with a stiff brush.

I did this on a patio, but it was impossible to sweep off al the fine cement powder and it left a stain on the slabs.

[MaxNg]

Sorry - senior moment here - for" Pathclear" in my above post read "Roundup!"

[bogie]

m3jappa said:

Scrape joints out with a sharp tool as much as possible

Jet wash it with a powerful machine.

Let it dry out (bone dry) do not drive cars on it if it has no kiln sand in the joints.

Sweep in new kiln.

Sweep off every last bit of kiln.

Seal with a branded POLYURETHANE sealer - not water based as it will only last a year or so. Poly will last around 5 years. No more weeds.....

Believe me when you get expensive quotes its because it is in reality a nightmare job needing perfect weather, there is risk involved (if it rains it will ruin the paving) it could also take weeks to dry out and several visits to ensure its dry before being able to seal it, couple that to it being expensive (around £200 for enough to cover around 45m2)

Do what i tell my customers - DIY it its very easy to do but 'can' turn into a nightmare.

no wonder i got dear quotes then ...my front parking bit is >120m2, then maybe another 40m2 around the back/side

..Karcher patio cleaner attachment and a bit of my own labour will have to do!

[Carl_Spackler]

Plus



A couple of times a year, does the trick on my mono block drive.

[IceBoy]

Thanks for the advice all.
K

[Simpo Two]

MaxNg said:

Sorry - senior moment here - for" Pathclear" in my above post read "Roundup!"

Pathclear is total residual, Roundup is total non-residual (and translocated, ie moves around the plant)

So you use Pathclear when you don't want anything to grow for a year (eg a path), and Roundup if you want to kill existing plants and then replant (eg a flower bed).

[sjc]

Little tip is to use the back of the broom to move the sand around, much easier/works better.

[Pickled Piper]

bogie said:

its easier just to get the patio cleaner attachment on the Karcher, spend an hour on it ...then patchclear weed killer twice a year...that works for mine anyway...and certainly dosnt mean paying someone £1500 to come and seal it up LOL

As above with an attachment for a pressure washer, then resand it. Alternatively, pay someone with a bigger pressure washer to come and do it for you.

pp

[blueg33]

garycat said:

dave_s13 said:

I did mine thusly - only a small area though.

- Jet wash all the crap out between the joints and also scrape out the stubborn bits.

- Mix up a 3-1 sharp sand/cement mix.

- Make sure the surface is drier than dry

- Sweep in the mixtures and make sure not a trace is left on the block surface.

- Wait for it to rain

The mix sets in the joins and makes it very difficuly for stuff to start growing in the cracks. Just make sure you sweep it clear every now and then with a stiff brush.

I did this on a patio, but it was impossible to sweep off al the fine cement powder and it left a stain on the slabs.

Same here. Plus if the blocks are tightly laid sharp sand is often too coarse to fit into the joints.

[bogie]

its kiln dried sand on my paving ...they left me 1/2 a bag to top up any bags when we had it done 3 years ago

[sjc]

bogie said:

its kiln dried sand on my paving ...they left me 1/2 a bag to top up any bags when we had it done 3 years ago

Yep. deffo want kiln dried sand and the patio must be COMPLETELY dry. Prob need to brush a bit more over a month or so afterwards.

[Dr.Doofenshmirtz]

Petrol makes an excellent weedkiller, and it's by far the cheapest option. Just make sure you don't smoke while you're spraying it!

[Simpo Two]

Weedkiller is probably cheaper!