Subwoofers not working.
Discussion
The cables going to the head unit will be plugged into the pre-outs on the back. The other end should be plugged into a separate amp. If the sub/s are "active" it will have its own amp, if they aren't they will/should be plugged into a separate amp.
Edited to add, I don't know of any headunit with enough grunt to run a sub. Any half decent sub will need upwards of 200W RMS. most head units will PEAK at 40-50w max so probably 20-30W RMS.
Edited to add, I don't know of any headunit with enough grunt to run a sub. Any half decent sub will need upwards of 200W RMS. most head units will PEAK at 40-50w max so probably 20-30W RMS.
Edited by AdamIndy on Thursday 29th September 17:10
AdamIndy said:
The cables going to the head unit will be plugged into the pre-outs on the back. The other end should be plugged into a separate amp. If the sub/s are "active" it will have its own amp, if they aren't they will/should be plugged into a separate amp.
Edited to add, I don't know of any headunit with enough grunt to run a sub. Any half decent sub will need upwards of 200W RMS. most head units will PEAK at 40-50w max so probably 20-30W RMS.
So what should I do? The outputs from the back of the head unit, should he connect to an amp, and wires should be connected to the subs? Edited to add, I don't know of any headunit with enough grunt to run a sub. Any half decent sub will need upwards of 200W RMS. most head units will PEAK at 40-50w max so probably 20-30W RMS.
Edited by AdamIndy on Thursday 29th September 17:10
ambuletz said:
most headunits are around 50w aren't they? can't imagine that will make for much of a powerful subwoofer... (especially when its powering other speakers too)
Yeah it's 50w X 4. That's what it says on the head unit Don't know what that means? That's why I thought it has enough power.
The subwoofer out just means it has the ability to control a sub, not to power it.
Depending if you have a separate amp and sub set up or an active sub will determine your next move.
If you will be using a separate amp/sub set up, you will need to run a power cable direct from the battery to the amp, the pre out as mentioned above, a signal wire from the head unit to the amp(to switch the amp on) and 2 wires to the sub itself.
If it is an active sub, you will still need the power cable from the battery, switch to the head unit and the pre out cables to the head unit.
A sub pulls ALOT of power, my old set up was north of 80amps.
Depending if you have a separate amp and sub set up or an active sub will determine your next move.
If you will be using a separate amp/sub set up, you will need to run a power cable direct from the battery to the amp, the pre out as mentioned above, a signal wire from the head unit to the amp(to switch the amp on) and 2 wires to the sub itself.
If it is an active sub, you will still need the power cable from the battery, switch to the head unit and the pre out cables to the head unit.
A sub pulls ALOT of power, my old set up was north of 80amps.
AdamIndy said:
The subwoofer out just means it has the ability to control a sub, not to power it.
Depending if you have a separate amp and sub set up or an active sub will determine your next move.
If you will be using a separate amp/sub set up, you will need to run a power cable direct from the battery to the amp, the pre out as mentioned above, a signal wire from the head unit to the amp(to switch the amp on) and 2 wires to the sub itself.
If it is an active sub, you will still need the power cable from the battery, switch to the head unit and the pre out cables to the head unit.
A sub pulls ALOT of power, my old set up was north of 80amps.
Depending if you have a separate amp and sub set up or an active sub will determine your next move.
If you will be using a separate amp/sub set up, you will need to run a power cable direct from the battery to the amp, the pre out as mentioned above, a signal wire from the head unit to the amp(to switch the amp on) and 2 wires to the sub itself.
If it is an active sub, you will still need the power cable from the battery, switch to the head unit and the pre out cables to the head unit.
A sub pulls ALOT of power, my old set up was north of 80amps.
There are power wires connected, which you can't see, and the blue wires are the auxiliary cables
I'm not sure if it's active
The photo is too blurry to make out whats going on, take some better ones, especially of the sub/amp and whatever is currently connected to it (and what needs to be).
I can't really tell properly from your photo but I am assuming those blue wires are going to your normal speakers? in which case most speakers will have 2 wires going into them.
I had an active subwoofer in my car and the wires consisted of.
- RCAs going from the headunit to the sub
- live wire from the battery to the subwoofer/amp.
- ground going from the sub to part of the chassis.
I can't really tell properly from your photo but I am assuming those blue wires are going to your normal speakers? in which case most speakers will have 2 wires going into them.
I had an active subwoofer in my car and the wires consisted of.
- RCAs going from the headunit to the sub
- live wire from the battery to the subwoofer/amp.
- ground going from the sub to part of the chassis.
Brandonflowers123 said:
There are power wires connected, which you can't see, and the blue wires are the auxiliary cables
I'm not sure if it's active
I suspect, when the OP says 'subs' he means the speakers on the parcel shelf?
Is this the back of your Pioneer OP?
The speakers you have taken a blurry photo of would typically plug into the socket next to the red 10 amp fuse on the left (via an ISO adapter or something).
This means the speakers are using the head units internal amplifier.
If you want it louder, then you'll need a separate amplifier. The amp will connect to the photo sockets on the right (the top pair marked R = rear) and then the speakers will connect to the amp, not the head unit.
If you want more bass, then you'll need a dedicated subwoofer enclosure and amp. This amp will connect to the phono sockets marked S = sub)
The phono sockets marked F are of course for a front amp/speaker pair.
The S phono sockets will most likely have a low pass filter, so you'll only get bass frequencies, unlike the F and R outputs which will be full range.
If you do add a bass amp/enclosure, then remember to enable the high pass filter on the F and R outputs - this means the speakers in the car only need to deal with mid and high range frequencies, leaving all the bass frequency jobs to the sub woofer. This will mean more volume, and less distortion.
Is this the back of your Pioneer OP?
The speakers you have taken a blurry photo of would typically plug into the socket next to the red 10 amp fuse on the left (via an ISO adapter or something).
This means the speakers are using the head units internal amplifier.
If you want it louder, then you'll need a separate amplifier. The amp will connect to the photo sockets on the right (the top pair marked R = rear) and then the speakers will connect to the amp, not the head unit.
If you want more bass, then you'll need a dedicated subwoofer enclosure and amp. This amp will connect to the phono sockets marked S = sub)
The phono sockets marked F are of course for a front amp/speaker pair.
The S phono sockets will most likely have a low pass filter, so you'll only get bass frequencies, unlike the F and R outputs which will be full range.
If you do add a bass amp/enclosure, then remember to enable the high pass filter on the F and R outputs - this means the speakers in the car only need to deal with mid and high range frequencies, leaving all the bass frequency jobs to the sub woofer. This will mean more volume, and less distortion.
ambuletz said:
The photo is too blurry to make out whats going on, take some better ones, especially of the sub/amp and whatever is currently connected to it (and what needs to be).
I can't really tell properly from your photo but I am assuming those blue wires are going to your normal speakers? in which case most speakers will have 2 wires going into them.
I had an active subwoofer in my car and the wires consisted of.
- RCAs going from the headunit to the sub
- live wire from the battery to the subwoofer/amp.
- ground going from the sub to part of the chassis.
I can't really tell properly from your photo but I am assuming those blue wires are going to your normal speakers? in which case most speakers will have 2 wires going into them.
I had an active subwoofer in my car and the wires consisted of.
- RCAs going from the headunit to the sub
- live wire from the battery to the subwoofer/amp.
- ground going from the sub to part of the chassis.
Here are better pictures.
Dr Doofenshmirtz said:
I suspect, when the OP says 'subs' he means the speakers on the parcel shelf?
Is this the back of your Pioneer OP?
The speakers you have taken a blurry photo of would typically plug into the socket next to the red 10 amp fuse on the left (via an ISO adapter or something).
This means the speakers are using the head units internal amplifier.
If you want it louder, then you'll need a separate amplifier. The amp will connect to the photo sockets on the right (the top pair marked R = rear) and then the speakers will connect to the amp, not the head unit.
If you want more bass, then you'll need a dedicated subwoofer enclosure and amp. This amp will connect to the phono sockets marked S = sub)
The phono sockets marked F are of course for a front amp/speaker pair.
The S phono sockets will most likely have a low pass filter, so you'll only get bass frequencies, unlike the F and R outputs which will be full range.
If you do add a bass amp/enclosure, then remember to enable the high pass filter on the F and R outputs - this means the speakers in the car only need to deal with mid and high range frequencies, leaving all the bass frequency jobs to the sub woofer. This will mean more volume, and less distortion.
I've uploaded better pictures, yes speakers on the back shelf.Is this the back of your Pioneer OP?
The speakers you have taken a blurry photo of would typically plug into the socket next to the red 10 amp fuse on the left (via an ISO adapter or something).
This means the speakers are using the head units internal amplifier.
If you want it louder, then you'll need a separate amplifier. The amp will connect to the photo sockets on the right (the top pair marked R = rear) and then the speakers will connect to the amp, not the head unit.
If you want more bass, then you'll need a dedicated subwoofer enclosure and amp. This amp will connect to the phono sockets marked S = sub)
The phono sockets marked F are of course for a front amp/speaker pair.
The S phono sockets will most likely have a low pass filter, so you'll only get bass frequencies, unlike the F and R outputs which will be full range.
If you do add a bass amp/enclosure, then remember to enable the high pass filter on the F and R outputs - this means the speakers in the car only need to deal with mid and high range frequencies, leaving all the bass frequency jobs to the sub woofer. This will mean more volume, and less distortion.
I have those two speakers connected, with the two top outputs, but they don't even turn on or work.
AdamIndy said:
Brandonflowers123 said:
There are power wires connected, which you can't see, and the blue wires are the auxiliary cables
I'm not sure if it's active
You've done it wrong chap...
Those are low level output 'pre-amp' phono leads intended to plug into an amplifier.
If you don't have an external amplifier or don't intend to fit one - then you must connect the speakers to the ISO lead that plugs into the large socket next to the red 10 amp fuse on the back of the head unit.
If you buy an ISO adapter for your car...then you can just plug and play using the cars existing speaker wiring...no need to run new cables at all. What make, model and year car is it?
Failing that - got any mates who know what they're doing that can help you?
Those are low level output 'pre-amp' phono leads intended to plug into an amplifier.
If you don't have an external amplifier or don't intend to fit one - then you must connect the speakers to the ISO lead that plugs into the large socket next to the red 10 amp fuse on the back of the head unit.
If you buy an ISO adapter for your car...then you can just plug and play using the cars existing speaker wiring...no need to run new cables at all. What make, model and year car is it?
Failing that - got any mates who know what they're doing that can help you?
Edited by Dr Doofenshmirtz on Monday 3rd October 09:29
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