Road bike gearing

Author
Discussion

Stupeo

Original Poster:

1,343 posts

194 months

Friday 9th December 2016
quotequote all
So, I'm a fairly novice road cyclist and have a Ribble R782 with Ultegra Di2 that I bought a few months back.

The bike has a 11-25 cassette and 39/53 chainset. The bike is very fast on the flat, but I really do struggle on some hills. My old Carrera with just 14 gears felt much easier climbing.

I'm trying to find a good resource to understand the gearing, as I suspect I need a different cassette.

Can anyone help or any suggestions?

Thanks.

CharlieCrocodile

1,201 posts

154 months

Friday 9th December 2016
quotequote all
Pop your gear details into this - http://ritzelrechner.de/ and then put in 50/34 12/28 which is pretty much standard these days on 10 speed entry level bikes. But you're right, you've got a bike fast on flat but on the hills you'll struggle. Happy to be corrected.

47p2

1,519 posts

162 months

Friday 9th December 2016
quotequote all
Buy a compact chainset and a 11T-28 cassette, sell the ones you have to recoup a large wad of what you've spent and hit the hills

R1gtr

3,426 posts

155 months

Friday 9th December 2016
quotequote all
Yeah worth changing to a 52/36 on the front and a 11-32 on the back which will require new chain set, cassette, chain and a larger rear mech.
Have a play on the app- 'gear calculator'



fromage

537 posts

204 months

Friday 9th December 2016
quotequote all
Just get a 11-28 cassette first as you will prob find that is enough to get you up most climbs and won't need anything else changing (maybe the chain)

Wilmslowboy

4,216 posts

207 months

Friday 9th December 2016
quotequote all
As above you want the smallest chain ring at the front and the largest on your rear cassette.

As a guide I have a 34 on the front and a 32 on the back - I live in the north west, ride in the peaks and am an overweight unfit climber.

You should be able to change you front chain rings 50/34 (you will have to do both as there is a max the front derailleur can move) and your rear cassttte to a 28 (any more and you will need to change to a mid/large cage derailleur)


This will make a massive difference



Stupeo

Original Poster:

1,343 posts

194 months

Friday 9th December 2016
quotequote all
Thanks all - appreciate the advice.

I've downloaded the Gear Calc app and will have a play.

Reading the advice and watching the GCN gearing video I am inclined to try a new cassette (11-28) first to see if that helps. I don't want to spend a fortune...already upset the missus with the subsequent Garmin 520 and GP 4 Season purchases close to Christmas smile

47p2

1,519 posts

162 months

Friday 9th December 2016
quotequote all
If your chainset is Ultegra 6800 it might be possible to just change the inner (small) chainring to a 36 which wouldn't cost the earth and would make a big difference. You would need to do a bit of research to see if the 53T-36 is a workable combo

Rich_W

12,548 posts

213 months

Friday 9th December 2016
quotequote all
fromage said:
Just get a 11-28 cassette first as you will prob find that is enough to get you up most climbs and won't need anything else changing (maybe the chain)
THIS

As a relative novice bike rider, it's going to take a while to get the strength required. New sprockets sets aren't expensive from Wiggle/CRC (as above, you will need a slightly longer chain )

Johnny

9,652 posts

285 months

Friday 9th December 2016
quotequote all
This is also my plan to give myself a bit more range on the up.

Currently 53/39 & 12-25 but will be ordering an 11-28.

Rich_W said:
fromage said:
Just get a 11-28 cassette first as you will prob find that is enough to get you up most climbs and won't need anything else changing (maybe the chain)
THIS

As a relative novice bike rider, it's going to take a while to get the strength required. New sprockets sets aren't expensive from Wiggle/CRC (as above, you will need a slightly longer chain )

idiotgap

2,112 posts

134 months

Saturday 10th December 2016
quotequote all
Changing the cassette is a good idea. If you are planning to do it yourself, which is easy, you need a shimano lockring socket, something to turn the socket (I use a pair of plumbers stilsons because I don't have a big enough spanner) and a chain whip.

Actually, these 2 tools would do it for £6

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TOJWLT/jobsworth-cass...
(Doesn't need the stilsons as this has a handle)

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TOJWCW/jobsworth-heav...

Cassettes, like chains, are consumables so it's not a terrible idea to be able to change them yourself. Also handy if you want to be able to buy new wheels and change them over yourself.

Don't feel you have to have an ultegra cassette if the 105 is half the price, there won't be much in it in terms of weight which will be most of the difference between them.

Keep the old cassette if it's not done too many miles, you might plan a flat ride one day, or strengthen your legs to the point you want to try it again. Put it on a turbo wheel maybe.

moonigan

2,145 posts

242 months

Saturday 10th December 2016
quotequote all
Rich_W said:
THIS

As a relative novice bike rider, it's going to take a while to get the strength required. New sprockets sets aren't expensive from Wiggle/CRC (as above, you will need a slightly longer chain )
You'll get away with the existing chain as long as you don't go change into the biggest ring on the back whilst in the big ring at the front.

anonymous-user

55 months

Saturday 10th December 2016
quotequote all
fromage said:
Just get a 11-28 cassette first as you will prob find that is enough to get you up most climbs and won't need anything else changing (maybe the chain)
This..or he could get away with a 12-30 with simple adjustment of the B screw. Would give him scope for most climbs.

Rich_W

12,548 posts

213 months

Saturday 10th December 2016
quotequote all
moonigan said:
Rich_W said:
THIS

As a relative novice bike rider, it's going to take a while to get the strength required. New sprockets sets aren't expensive from Wiggle/CRC (as above, you will need a slightly longer chain )
You'll get away with the existing chain as long as you don't go change into the biggest ring on the back whilst in the big ring at the front.
I went from a 11-23T to a 11-28T early last year. I needed a longer chain. (42/53 Chainrings) The short cage rear mech (Ultegra) didn't sit right. It was leaning forward. It probably was only a handful of links. But when an Ultegra chain costs £12ish and mine was the original 4 year old one. Seems a no brainer.

Related: Wouldn't use Sigma Sport EVER again off the back of the work!

TwistingMyMelon

6,385 posts

206 months

Sunday 11th December 2016
quotequote all
Yeah always just try a bigger cassette first if you can, Ive got/hat a variety of compacts/mid/compacts/doubles and cassette can make more of a difference than the front rings