Auto or Manual?
Discussion
Saw Covette's post and just devastated that the Vette has to go. As long as the new owner discovers Pistonheads!
The question. Auto or manual?
In my case I went in to buy a 6 speed stick shift coupe in Torch Red. I came out with an automatic convertible in Magnetic Red. So much for standards! That said, 0% finance speaks volumes and the auto is great in Vegas traffic. But.......... love to try a manual!!!
The question. Auto or manual?
In my case I went in to buy a 6 speed stick shift coupe in Torch Red. I came out with an automatic convertible in Magnetic Red. So much for standards! That said, 0% finance speaks volumes and the auto is great in Vegas traffic. But.......... love to try a manual!!!
I've had both, and if you're a person who likes to drive fast and feel in control, Manual is the only way to go.
The Auto is probably ever so slightly quicker in a straight line, but when you combine auto kick-down with the amount of corners in the UK, it creates a near lethal combination of rear sliding action.
With the manual, not only does the car sound better and feel quicker, you get better fuel consumption, and you are always in control.
My only criticism of the manual is the length of the gear stick - it's huge! You feel like you're rowing through the gears like some kind of petrol driven gondola! I'll be fixing that up at the first opportunity.
The only other thing to consider is the kind of traffic you encounter - if you spend a long time in a lot of traffic, then auto is probably the way to go.
I like to row my boat, though...
The Auto is probably ever so slightly quicker in a straight line, but when you combine auto kick-down with the amount of corners in the UK, it creates a near lethal combination of rear sliding action.
With the manual, not only does the car sound better and feel quicker, you get better fuel consumption, and you are always in control.
My only criticism of the manual is the length of the gear stick - it's huge! You feel like you're rowing through the gears like some kind of petrol driven gondola! I'll be fixing that up at the first opportunity.
The only other thing to consider is the kind of traffic you encounter - if you spend a long time in a lot of traffic, then auto is probably the way to go.
I like to row my boat, though...
Last time I looked (it may have changed now) at the official Chevrolet Corvette site they quoted 0-60 mph times of 4.6 (manual) 4.9 sec (auto).
All on paper and theoretical but for comparison puposes not much difference, and imagine how hard you'd have to push the manual to even keep up with the auto.
There may be more difference in the 1/4 though I personally have found it quite hard to get a good 1/4 mile in my manual vette. Certainly harder to change consistently.
I think the pros power-shift (shift without clutch - ouch!) but then it's not their car...
I prefer manuals and always wanted a 6-speed (plays better tunes) but can't deny the appeal of an auto.
All on paper and theoretical but for comparison puposes not much difference, and imagine how hard you'd have to push the manual to even keep up with the auto.
There may be more difference in the 1/4 though I personally have found it quite hard to get a good 1/4 mile in my manual vette. Certainly harder to change consistently.
I think the pros power-shift (shift without clutch - ouch!) but then it's not their car...
I prefer manuals and always wanted a 6-speed (plays better tunes) but can't deny the appeal of an auto.
Have to say I agree with all has been said, I have had both.
The manual gives a lot more control - but there is room for error or slow shifts etc. Whereas the auto I would guess is quicker in a real world straight line, but give it a corner etc and I prefer the manual. I also had one occasion with the auto in some bad weather when I overtook a lorry and got a kick down (unexpected) this caused the back end to lose it .....
You always tend to find with an auto that you end up in a gear that you didn't want.
But that doesn't stop you wanting one when you hit traffic.
>> Edited by sharpkings on Friday 27th February 18:28
The manual gives a lot more control - but there is room for error or slow shifts etc. Whereas the auto I would guess is quicker in a real world straight line, but give it a corner etc and I prefer the manual. I also had one occasion with the auto in some bad weather when I overtook a lorry and got a kick down (unexpected) this caused the back end to lose it .....
You always tend to find with an auto that you end up in a gear that you didn't want.
But that doesn't stop you wanting one when you hit traffic.
>> Edited by sharpkings on Friday 27th February 18:28
Mines an auto, i bought it because i thought being a lhd i had enough to think about, without worrying about changing gear. Next time i will buy a manual as i prefer the sound over an auto, i have no complaints about the performance of the auto, having seen off 2 DB7 6.0 litre vantages, or are they slow and i'm deluding myself.
I've had autos on all my US cars as autos seemed to be more plentiful at the time and when I'm buying I get impatient. I'm not bothered about the gearbox on my next one and am looking forward to the possibilty of manual. Certainly manual plays a better tune and is probably more "professional" in they eyes of petrol heads etc (i.e. ZR1s and Z06s) and more fun at times. The auto is great for kicking down and achieves a gear change much quicker than I consistently could. It is also a real benefit when in heavy/stationery traffic and around town.
However this thread has got me thinking that perhaps I should practise in someone else's manual first. So if you don't mind me hitting a few neutrals, crunching your gears and of course testing your rev limiter then form an orderly queue outside my house please.
However this thread has got me thinking that perhaps I should practise in someone else's manual first. So if you don't mind me hitting a few neutrals, crunching your gears and of course testing your rev limiter then form an orderly queue outside my house please.
One thing that's a bit of a shame with US manuals is that they seem to assume that drivers like a lot of "stick travel". This is probably left over from teh old musclecar days when each gear position was abot 3 feet away from the next.
A mate of mine sat in my car once and said "typical yankee box, huge travel and vague feeling" When I said it's German (ZF) he couldn't believe it! That made me think that ZF had engineered it for US tastes.
A short shifter sounds like a good idea, heard some pros and cons though.
BTW 6-speed ZF owners, I don't know if I'm imagining it but using BMW M5 motor oil 10W60 (as recommended by ZFdocs) is making nme think I have a smoother shift...
A mate of mine sat in my car once and said "typical yankee box, huge travel and vague feeling" When I said it's German (ZF) he couldn't believe it! That made me think that ZF had engineered it for US tastes.
A short shifter sounds like a good idea, heard some pros and cons though.
BTW 6-speed ZF owners, I don't know if I'm imagining it but using BMW M5 motor oil 10W60 (as recommended by ZFdocs) is making nme think I have a smoother shift...
Auto for general use and at the track, I have to say the autos are far more consistent and often faster than the manual shifters. Cars that ought to be running 13's or 14's run 15's and they're usually the manuals. Some of the figures gained for US mags entail "power shifting" which is changes made with the throttle never being lifted.
The biggest drawback to auto is when you're really giving it some stick. Changing down is greeted by lurching and you don't have enough ratios to make smooth progress, the whole thing falls apart.
On the plus side, chances are you'll just have to change fluid in your auto. When your clutch goes on a manual, it's not cheap to replace. If you don't like bills, the auto is the best bet.
Obviously, with a Z06, you don't get a choice but then a Z06 should have a manual anyway because it's a proper sports car.
The biggest drawback to auto is when you're really giving it some stick. Changing down is greeted by lurching and you don't have enough ratios to make smooth progress, the whole thing falls apart.
On the plus side, chances are you'll just have to change fluid in your auto. When your clutch goes on a manual, it's not cheap to replace. If you don't like bills, the auto is the best bet.
Obviously, with a Z06, you don't get a choice but then a Z06 should have a manual anyway because it's a proper sports car.
I installed a Hurst shifter on my ZF6 when I did the clutch change a couple of weeks back. Shifter throw is 30% less and the gearknob sits 1 1/2 inches lower. It is a tremendous improvement, makes you ask why didn't it come from the factory that way? Malcolm if you want to have a feel of mine you're welcome...
I also put 10w60 oil in my tranny and it also feels much smoother, the thicker oil seems to do it good.
I also put 10w60 oil in my tranny and it also feels much smoother, the thicker oil seems to do it good.
ZR1forFun said:
I also put 10w60 oil in my tranny and it also feels much smoother, the thicker oil seems to do it good.
How you doing Richard 'long time no see',>putting oil in yer tranny<< now i know what youve been up to.
Does the Short shifter really make that much difference?,is it easier to put it in the wrong gear on fast shifts?
I was planning to bring it to the next Surrey meeting, but it might be on the end of a tow rope.... 
Bloody thing broke down on me yesterday.
Started up and ran fine for two minutes, then it starts running really rough and backfiring, making lots of smoke and cutting out at low revs.
CCM says the cam sensor and ignition module are both up the swannee but I don't believe it. I got it running OK for short periods but whenever I tap the ECM it starts running rough again, so maybe the ECM is dodgy.
If I can't fix it I'll bin the LT5 and put a 383 with a carb in it. Nice and simple and no electrickery to go wrong.
Cliff, with the Hurst shifter there's less chance of mis-shifting as the shifter feels more precise, you're welcome to try it out if and when I get it back on the road.
Bloody thing broke down on me yesterday.
Started up and ran fine for two minutes, then it starts running really rough and backfiring, making lots of smoke and cutting out at low revs. CCM says the cam sensor and ignition module are both up the swannee but I don't believe it. I got it running OK for short periods but whenever I tap the ECM it starts running rough again, so maybe the ECM is dodgy.
If I can't fix it I'll bin the LT5 and put a 383 with a carb in it. Nice and simple and no electrickery to go wrong.
Cliff, with the Hurst shifter there's less chance of mis-shifting as the shifter feels more precise, you're welcome to try it out if and when I get it back on the road.
ZR1forFun said:
If I can't fix it I'll bin the LT5 and put a 383 with a carb in it. Nice and simple and no electrickery to go wrong.
Cliff, with the Hurst shifter there's less chance of mis-shifting as the shifter feels more precise, you're welcome to try it out if and when I get it back on the road.
Sounds bad,hope you can 'sort it'(fingers crossed),ide be interested to try the short shift.
Richard - you probably know about this but just in case cos the symptoms you described sound VERY similar to the old backfire on start up scenario.
Sometimes, on start up, the engine will backfire and blow a vacuum pipe off the back end of the plenum. Even a small hardly noticed backfire can cause this.
Hopefully that is the case as the fix couldn't be easier although it's not the easiest thing to eyeball, effectively you just slide the pipe back on securely.
To prevent backfires on start up just hold the ignition key in the engage position until after the engine has started and is running.
I'm sorry, I know a lot of people are aware of this, is just that some aren't, as I said, just in case.
Sometimes, on start up, the engine will backfire and blow a vacuum pipe off the back end of the plenum. Even a small hardly noticed backfire can cause this.
Hopefully that is the case as the fix couldn't be easier although it's not the easiest thing to eyeball, effectively you just slide the pipe back on securely.
To prevent backfires on start up just hold the ignition key in the engage position until after the engine has started and is running.
I'm sorry, I know a lot of people are aware of this, is just that some aren't, as I said, just in case.
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