Rust on the chassis - POR15 or something else?
Discussion
I had a good look over the 7 this weekend. The car is 6 years old, has 18k under it's belt and is driven in all weather.
The chassis and paintwork are generally in very good nick. No issues with the powder coat on the front of the car, I've cleaned out the grot traps in front of the footwells and and it all looks very clean.
The only rust I have issues with is at the back of the car around the rear basket and wheels. I guess a lot of stones get kicked up in this area and cause chips which eventually rust.
What would you suggest is the best approach? I was going to touch up the rusted areas with POR15, but I've noticed some bubbling under the power coat near the wheels and as far as I'm aware, the best approach is to sand away the existing coat and apply POR15 to the bare metal/rust?
Has anyone got any experience with this? I don't want to strip the existing coat and find it's more prone to rust than before!
The chassis and paintwork are generally in very good nick. No issues with the powder coat on the front of the car, I've cleaned out the grot traps in front of the footwells and and it all looks very clean.
The only rust I have issues with is at the back of the car around the rear basket and wheels. I guess a lot of stones get kicked up in this area and cause chips which eventually rust.
What would you suggest is the best approach? I was going to touch up the rusted areas with POR15, but I've noticed some bubbling under the power coat near the wheels and as far as I'm aware, the best approach is to sand away the existing coat and apply POR15 to the bare metal/rust?
Has anyone got any experience with this? I don't want to strip the existing coat and find it's more prone to rust than before!
Edited by framerateuk on Monday 29th September 14:33
Drill, wire brush fitting, a pair of glasses and attack.
clean off anything that looks like its about to come off. Then rust eater and POR15/Hammerite. (never seen POR15 so I cant comment on it)
In addition I put a couple of coats of Dinitrol over the hammerite to prevent further chips.
clean off anything that looks like its about to come off. Then rust eater and POR15/Hammerite. (never seen POR15 so I cant comment on it)
In addition I put a couple of coats of Dinitrol over the hammerite to prevent further chips.
I would just chip off any obvious flaking, and coat with ACF-50.
The moment you start aggressive cleaning of the rust/flaking it will just continue ti get worse...
I use Eugene in all weathers, and do a lot of miles, and basically have no great rust issue as I coat with ACF-50 each year.
Also, you need to do in-between the body panels.
See: http://www.7-dna.com/forums/index.php?action=vthre...
The moment you start aggressive cleaning of the rust/flaking it will just continue ti get worse...
I use Eugene in all weathers, and do a lot of miles, and basically have no great rust issue as I coat with ACF-50 each year.
Also, you need to do in-between the body panels.
See: http://www.7-dna.com/forums/index.php?action=vthre...
Ah, two conflicting views - just what I expected!
Realistically, it's not bad (certainly not a patch on this! http://www.mycaterham.com/66828/116916.html). There's some paint come off where the rear basket joins onto the lower chassis rails (right on the join, where expected), and the lower chassis rails leading along the sides of the car to the front are a bit flaky. The power coat looks good on the rest of the car.
I don't want to turn a small problem into a larger one!
Realistically, it's not bad (certainly not a patch on this! http://www.mycaterham.com/66828/116916.html). There's some paint come off where the rear basket joins onto the lower chassis rails (right on the join, where expected), and the lower chassis rails leading along the sides of the car to the front are a bit flaky. The power coat looks good on the rest of the car.
I don't want to turn a small problem into a larger one!
I can't recommend POR15 enough. Next best thing to a powder coat. Hard as nails when its dry leaving a beautiful brush free finish.
Re built the rear of my car some three or four years ago. And whilst the axle and diff assy was out i treated this with POR15. Same applied to the 'A' frame. This however was rubbed down to bare metal and then painted. Odd touch up here and there where required on chassis tubes for good measure.
Three, four years on and it still looks as good today as it was when i first did it. Very little evidence of stone chips and no signs of an corrosion taking hold.
Use this stuff then avoid at all cost getting it on your skin. If you do you will certainly be wearing it for several days to come. You have been warned
Re built the rear of my car some three or four years ago. And whilst the axle and diff assy was out i treated this with POR15. Same applied to the 'A' frame. This however was rubbed down to bare metal and then painted. Odd touch up here and there where required on chassis tubes for good measure.
Three, four years on and it still looks as good today as it was when i first did it. Very little evidence of stone chips and no signs of an corrosion taking hold.
Use this stuff then avoid at all cost getting it on your skin. If you do you will certainly be wearing it for several days to come. You have been warned
I agree POR15 is good, but it's more about 'look'...
With ACF-50 if never 'sets', so will always re-cover any new chips, etc, making the protection far more comprehensive, in my experience.
If you want your 7 to 'look' new, then rubbing down and re-coating is the way to go.
If, like me, you use your 7 all year round, in all weathers, then an active protection, such as ACF-50, is preferable.
Eugene has done well over 200K miles in my hands, so i think I can talk with some level of experience.
See: http://www.7-dna.com/forums/index.php?action=vthre...
With ACF-50 if never 'sets', so will always re-cover any new chips, etc, making the protection far more comprehensive, in my experience.
If you want your 7 to 'look' new, then rubbing down and re-coating is the way to go.
If, like me, you use your 7 all year round, in all weathers, then an active protection, such as ACF-50, is preferable.
Eugene has done well over 200K miles in my hands, so i think I can talk with some level of experience.
See: http://www.7-dna.com/forums/index.php?action=vthre...
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