Discussion
Fitted mine a few months back. It's easier if you change to a 2" strap as that reduces the need to modify the seat holes (at least it did with my height and build - 5'8", 60KG). Of course, the mounts need moved too - I fabricated a plate from 10 mm steel but new bushes is probably a neater way to go.
It works really well and I don't notice it at all. As luck would have it, I went into the tyres first time out. Not a big hit, but enough to feel it work and realise it does makes a difference
It works really well and I don't notice it at all. As luck would have it, I went into the tyres first time out. Not a big hit, but enough to feel it work and realise it does makes a difference
Edited by DCL on Friday 21st November 07:25
I had thought about getting one but it looked a right drama taking the car to arch for them to mod the belt mounts etc and seeing as i just use it on track days I didn't bother. It'd be nice to see if you can do it yourself, it cant be beyond the wit of man as I mod'd a dedion cage to fit my live axle car
The main issue is that the profile that the straps follow on the HANS device require them to turn towards the center. The obvious problem with using the standard mounts is that the straps risk falling off the HANS device as they are too far apart, but there may be more subtle reasons. I also found that the tillets tend to be mounted at a slight angle to clear the side. This makes the mounts off center. Basically it is an area that you want to get right as a failure of the HANS is a bit of an unknown.
Here's how mine turned out for my seating position
Edit just to say I've checked and mine is 4mm (the prototype was 10 mm). The aluminium is to improve appearance and provided a bigger surface area should the seat move backwards, although the plate is also a right angle section for this reason.
Edit just to say I've checked and mine is 4mm (the prototype was 10 mm). The aluminium is to improve appearance and provided a bigger surface area should the seat move backwards, although the plate is also a right angle section for this reason.
Edited by DCL on Friday 21st November 14:33
How far apart are the inner belt edges? The Hans docs say max of 3". Your's looks a bit more than that.
In my single seater I have belt mountings that are 9" apart which means 7" belt seperation measured on the inside edges. I can vouch for the fact that that is appalling with the Hans.
I've been advised to go the plate route as well with 6mm plate.
Bert
In my single seater I have belt mountings that are 9" apart which means 7" belt seperation measured on the inside edges. I can vouch for the fact that that is appalling with the Hans.
I've been advised to go the plate route as well with 6mm plate.
Bert
BertBert said:
How far apart are the inner belt edges? The Hans docs say max of 3". Your's looks a bit more than that.
In my single seater I have belt mountings that are 9" apart which means 7" belt seperation measured on the inside edges. I can vouch for the fact that that is appalling with the Hans.
I've been advised to go the plate route as well with 6mm plate.
Bert
Where does it say a max of 3"?? In my single seater I have belt mountings that are 9" apart which means 7" belt seperation measured on the inside edges. I can vouch for the fact that that is appalling with the Hans.
I've been advised to go the plate route as well with 6mm plate.
Bert
http://www.fia.com/sites/default/files/regulation/...
For a 160mm Collar with 50mm straps at 200mm behind the driver = 110mm (4.5 inches). Your are aiming for an angle 20-25 degrees between the straps. As Honda Rush says, if you can get close to the mounts, the standard position might work.
Gregs79 said:
How about getting a few manufactured if someone finds a place to have them done? Might make it a bit cheaper and easier?!
They'd all need to be different, because we're not all the same size and shape.Generally, the further forward your seat is, the closer the strap mountings need to be.
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