K Series Imobiliser problem

K Series Imobiliser problem

Author
Discussion

DickieH

Original Poster:

52 posts

143 months

Tuesday 3rd March 2015
quotequote all
Help.. I have a standard 1.6 K 2007 EU3 car with the standard ‘Rover Robust Imobilser’ and black fob, and it won’t deactiveate, and the car won’t start. I noticed on few occasions over the last few weeks that it behaved a little oddly when deactivating/activating so I changed the fob batteries as a precaution and it seemed OK for a short period until this morning when it wont start. The red led comes on, the engine turns but dies as if the immobiliser is still activated.


The arming/locking of the immobiliser is normal with the clicks and indicators and the rapid flahing of the led which lthen settles down, but im not convinced the disarming process is clean. It clicks once and the indicator flashes once and then there’s what seems like ‘half a click’ and the indicators don’t flash with this ‘half click. (Can anyone confirm it should deactivate with 2 clicks and 2 flashes?) The led light goes off though but the engines wont start as above. This happens with both fobs and I have removed the fob batteries again, reset them and disconnected the car battery and done a ‘reset’ by clickin the lock button 4-8 times and then the unlock,but no luck. I have also done the deactivate and activate sequence 5 times as well. The car will not disarm.
The main battery is good and the fuel pump wirls as normal prior to starting.

Any ideas? If not does anyone know a good specialist in the Bristol area?
(ive posted on Blatchat too)
Thanks
DickieH




DickieH

Original Poster:

52 posts

143 months

Tuesday 3rd March 2015
quotequote all
Problem Fixed....
I phoned Tony at Caterham cars as well and he was helpful in offering a coouple more pointers which i checked. Tony phoned back after talking to a colleague who mentioned it could be the battery. if it dips below a certain level there wont be enough for the imobilser. I jumped it from my MX5 battery and it started!!!! result. Even though my car is used through the winter and put ion the Ctek now and again it looks like its on its way out. I now need an appropriate battery but that great news compared to where i was a couple of hours ago.



gareth h

3,548 posts

230 months

Tuesday 3rd March 2015
quotequote all
I got hacked off with my immobiliser misbehaving and sent the ECU off to Mark at Z and F who de-immob'd the ECU and remapped it, well worth doing on both counts.

DickieH

Original Poster:

52 posts

143 months

Wednesday 4th March 2015
quotequote all
Gareth
That's very interesting. What power/drivability benefits did you see? (what did you have before interms of power spec) And dare I ask what sort of approx. cost was involved. Did you also have to do any rewiring at the imobilser end?
Dickie

gareth h

3,548 posts

230 months

Wednesday 4th March 2015
quotequote all
DickieH said:
Gareth
That's very interesting. What power/drivability benefits did you see? (what did you have before interms of power spec) And dare I ask what sort of approx. cost was involved. Did you also have to do any rewiring at the imobilser end?
Dickie
My car was effectively a 1.8 vvc supposedly making 160bhp (we slapped a VVC cylinder head / induction / ECU onto my 120hp k series engine).
Z and F claim +10 hp, and improved mid range, I can't confirm the hp claim but the first time we started the car it sounded very different, the revs rise and fall a bit like it has a lightened flywheel. Throttle response is greatly improved, from memory the remap and de-immob was about £240 and very worthwhile as the immob had been playing up and I was starting to lose confidence in it starting reliably.