This is great addition to your workshop
Discussion
Toaster said:
Taking what you wrote I think you are saying 2150mAh can start a 6.0L engine, thats 2.1Ah that is not going to start your car and if it does I will buy you a pint and you can take the piss out of me....... 2.1 Ah will however charge something like an iPhone ( from this you may see you need more Ampere's)
So I suspect you must be clicking on different links, the order of magnitude is wrong it would take much more power to crank an engine to a sufficient speed to start the engine.
Ah is an approximate measure of capacity, not of peak current ability. The capacity of a battery does not solely determine the maximum current it is able to produce, though there is a strong correlation within a chemistry type. Different chemistries (and different qualities of the same chemistry) have different abilities to produce multiples of the capacity ('C' rating) in peak current.So I suspect you must be clicking on different links, the order of magnitude is wrong it would take much more power to crank an engine to a sufficient speed to start the engine.
The reason the leads do not get warm on one start is mostly to do with the length of time the current is passing through the wires.
And it is indeed a 2150mAh battery
https://youtu.be/UVY86mkA3vA?t=71
sjmmarsh said:
Looking at the example video, the unit is acting as a booster for the main battery, not a replacement. The instructions tell you to connect it to the battery for 30 seconds before cranking - assuming a shortish cranking time of 5 secs, you can get 6x the Ah into the battery that the unit on its own is capable of delivering. I know from my r/c raving days that you can exhaust a 2000mAh Nicad battery in under 5 mins, which equates to a sustained current of 12A (and makes the batteries very hot!). The unit is substantially bigger than a r/c unit, so it should have batteries capable of delivering a bigger punch than C cells.
If the starter is 1.5Kw, it will consume 125A, with a higher initial peak needed to get the whole lot turning.
Conclusion: it probably can't start a car on its own, but it will be able to boost a depleted battery enough to allow the engine to catch.
Steve
In this test the battery is completely dead, is that the same as not having a battery when you say "on its own" ? If the starter is 1.5Kw, it will consume 125A, with a higher initial peak needed to get the whole lot turning.
Conclusion: it probably can't start a car on its own, but it will be able to boost a depleted battery enough to allow the engine to catch.
Steve
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnMPhgbEhNQ
sjmmarsh said:
Conclusion: it probably can't start a car on its own, but it will be able to boost a depleted battery enough to allow the engine to catch.
Steve
It will start a 6.0L V8 by itself.Steve
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Zyv5kztfU8
There are plenty of other videos showing similar tests if you don't beleive the manufacturers claims.
runkle1112 said:
The reason the leads do not get warm on one start is mostly to do with the length of time the current is passing through the wires.
The reason they do not get warm is the cable length and their cross sectional area try and do the same thing with the leads at 1Mtr with the same leads double it any you may have a nice fire.runkle1112 said:
It will start a 6.0L V8 by itself. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Zyv5kztfU8 There are plenty of other videos showing similar tests if you don't beleive the manufacturers claims.
I don't think anyone is disbelieving the manufacture sjmmarsh said:
Looking at the example video, the unit is acting as a booster for the main battery, not a replacement. The instructions tell you to connect it to the battery for 30 seconds before cranking - assuming a shortish cranking time of 5 secs, you can get 6x the Ah into the battery that the unit on its own is capable of delivering. I know from my r/c raving days that you can exhaust a 2000mAh Nicad battery in under 5 mins, which equates to a sustained current of 12A (and makes the batteries very hot!). The unit is substantially bigger than a r/c unit, so it should have batteries capable of delivering a bigger punch than C cells.
If the starter is 1.5Kw, it will consume 125A, with a higher initial peak needed to get the whole lot turning.
Conclusion: it probably can't start a car on its own, but it will be able to boost a depleted battery enough to allow the engine to catch.
Steve
Indeed but the manufacturer is rating this at which is slightly more than three AAA batteries:If the starter is 1.5Kw, it will consume 125A, with a higher initial peak needed to get the whole lot turning.
Conclusion: it probably can't start a car on its own, but it will be able to boost a depleted battery enough to allow the engine to catch.
Steve
Peak Current Rating: 400A
Operating Temperature:-30°C (-22ºF) to +50°C(122ºF)
Micro USB (Input): 5V, 2.1A
USB (Output): 5V, 2.1A
Housing Protection: IP65 (w/Ports Closed)
Dimensions (L x W x H): 6.7 x 3.2 x 1.7 Inches
Weight: 1lb (2.1lb w/clamps)
There are also lots of other options available (some with USB ports for charging devices etc.)
Of course quality will vary. Check reviews.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IZ94AGI?keyw...
Of course quality will vary. Check reviews.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IZ94AGI?keyw...
This also has a USB port for charging phones.
There on sale here at Canadian Tire for $119.00 so I bought 3 for my family members.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/noco-genius-gb30...
There on sale here at Canadian Tire for $119.00 so I bought 3 for my family members.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/noco-genius-gb30...
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