Idling problem

[onward]

Hi, I have a supersport R with Duratec & engine upgrade.
When nicely warmed up it idles beautifully but when cold it constantly konks out when stationary.
I'm not very mechanically minded so is it something I can tamper with myself or is it a trip to the nearest garage or even CC?
It's on a 64 plate so I suppose CC would sort but it's an hour and half on 2 boring motorways. ??

Thanks in advance

[rort1]

if its just caused by idling too slowly, you can try turning the screw under throttle body linkage anti-clockwise (to raise it) by half a turn - nb will need to loosen bolt underneath first.

[Gingerbread Man]

Mine (k series) starts fine but is lumpy, sometimes stalling. A few revs with the pedal and then it idles fine. Ready to be driven then.

[onward]

rort1 said:

?if its just caused by idling too slowly, you can try turning the screw under throttle body linkage anti-clockwise (to raise it) by half a turn - nb will need to loosen bolt underneath first.

is this easily accessible ? what does it look like? i'm pretty bad and mechanics......but i'm up for trying

[onward]

Gingerbread Man said:

Mine (k series) starts fine but is lumpy, sometimes stalling. A few revs with the pedal and then it idles fine. Ready to be driven then.

i rev it lightly when at lights, even to the case of pulling up the hand brake to stop while my other foot is revving to stop it from stalling..

even hard revs doesn't help.

after driving a few fast miles it sorts itself out though ??

[Gingerbread Man]

Cold start sensors?

[DCL]

If it is the roller barrel upgrade and it runs fine when warm, then it suggest that things may be a bit lean when cold. This could be nothing more than requiring a bit of tweaking, but check the ECU temp sensor is plugged in properly as this will also cause cold running issues. As suggested, the easiest way is to just up the idle speed a bit and live with it.

But the process to set them up is not difficult but does require a few bits of kit. The basic order of things would be to set the barrels closed, and matched, with a 6mm bar in the throttle opening, then set TPS for site zero on easimap (or 4.6 volts IIRC on the TPS). Next, with the engine warm, set a flow of 6-8 kg/h on each body (making them the same rather than any particular figure).This is done using the hex adjustment screws on the top of the barrel. It should then run quite sweetly. If it doesn't then the barrels probably need stripped down and cleaned/overhauled as they could be sticking, or something else is going on.

Edited by DCL on Saturday 25th April 11:16

[Andy1912]

I use mine daily and had a lot of problems with this over the winter. Turned out to be a combination of poor fuel flow and ecu mapping. Its much better now, but will still konk out in the first few mins or so if I dont rev it sufficiently. It perhaps still could be tweaked to improve this but I cant be bothered and have just accepted the car needs to be driven in a different way to most. Now the weather is warming I expect this to be less and less of an issue...

[onward]

Thanks for your responses. Definitely need to book it in I think. Completely lost on all that technical talk. Thanks for your time in writing it though