Changing oil R400D
Discussion
There are two types of dry sump that were fitted to the R400D - The Titan/Cosworth, and later the Raceline.
I'll do the Cosworth, as that is what I have. Hopefully someone will add the Raceline differences.
Cosworth/Titan Sump
With engine warm:
Drain the dry sump tank
Remove Sump plug (black plug)
Undo the forward hose at the sump and remove fitting with gauze filter
Remove spin on oil filter
IMHO it's optional to undo the second hose, but doing it will drain more oil.
If you have a radiator type oil cooler ideally you will drain that by removing the connections at the cooler.
Remove and clean the catch tank.
Pre-fill a new oil filter and lubricate the seal, clean mounting surface and screw on hand tight.
Clean the gauze filter and replace -12 fitting with a new o ring (or at least check the old one is OK). Some may not use o rings, but fibre or copper washers.
Refit the front and rear hoses and tighten (firm but not too tight)
Replace the sump plug (with a new O ring or washer, if it has one)
Replace sump tank plug and fit a new copper washer. Not too tight as it is in alloy, just firm on the copper washer - it won't loosen.
Check all fittings are replaced and tight (including oil cooler)
Refit the catch tank.
Add 6L of oil to the tank. Some people like to add some to the engine but IMHO that makes no difference.
Disconnect the inertia switch and turn over the engine until you see oil pressure rise. Probably about 5-10 second of cranking, more with an oil cooler. It may fire but will not run.
Reconnect the inertia switch and start. Check oil pressure looks normal (it's usually higher with new oil but will reduce once it's covered some miles and the oil has 'run-in' or sheared back a little. Ester based oils will do this less)
Top up with another 1 to 2L of oil to around the top dry sump tank baffle with the engine running and warm. Test drive and check for leaks.
Job done.
I'll do the Cosworth, as that is what I have. Hopefully someone will add the Raceline differences.
Cosworth/Titan Sump
With engine warm:
Drain the dry sump tank
Remove Sump plug (black plug)
Undo the forward hose at the sump and remove fitting with gauze filter
Remove spin on oil filter
IMHO it's optional to undo the second hose, but doing it will drain more oil.
If you have a radiator type oil cooler ideally you will drain that by removing the connections at the cooler.
Remove and clean the catch tank.
Pre-fill a new oil filter and lubricate the seal, clean mounting surface and screw on hand tight.
Clean the gauze filter and replace -12 fitting with a new o ring (or at least check the old one is OK). Some may not use o rings, but fibre or copper washers.
Refit the front and rear hoses and tighten (firm but not too tight)
Replace the sump plug (with a new O ring or washer, if it has one)
Replace sump tank plug and fit a new copper washer. Not too tight as it is in alloy, just firm on the copper washer - it won't loosen.
Check all fittings are replaced and tight (including oil cooler)
Refit the catch tank.
Add 6L of oil to the tank. Some people like to add some to the engine but IMHO that makes no difference.
Disconnect the inertia switch and turn over the engine until you see oil pressure rise. Probably about 5-10 second of cranking, more with an oil cooler. It may fire but will not run.
Reconnect the inertia switch and start. Check oil pressure looks normal (it's usually higher with new oil but will reduce once it's covered some miles and the oil has 'run-in' or sheared back a little. Ester based oils will do this less)
Top up with another 1 to 2L of oil to around the top dry sump tank baffle with the engine running and warm. Test drive and check for leaks.
Job done.
Edited by DCL on Sunday 16th August 12:09
KN02LEY said:
I got my last two from Opie but you can find the same thing for £8 each if you search for the part number on eBay.
I received half a dozen from Opie today. £3.30 each in vat. Ordered on Monday. Searching UFI 23 118 00 brings them up as a supplier.Got the oil changed BTW. Drained the tank and the two pipes to and from the sump. Not sure I got everything out but I'll be changing the oil very regularly so not too concerned.
There can be big variations on Duratec's but for a healthy engine (when hot) idle should be 20-30 PSI (~1.5-2.0 bar). That should increase to 60-90 PSI (~4-6 bar) at max RPM. There's a very tight bearing tolerance on factory engines and this is often not preserved on some performance builds, so some engines may show (disturbingly) low pressures. But this not necessarily a problem provided it is in good condition and stable.
I do the first oil change after running in and mapping and your guide is a brilliant help on that.
I struggle with the "Undo the forward hose at the sump and remove fitting with gauze filter" bit, in special with the filter as there is nothing in. I can feel a pipe with the diameter of the plug hole on the inside but nothing else. As this is a used set I don't know whether it was getting lost or never there. From the pic https://caterhamparts.co.uk/dry-sump/4604-dry-sump... at the Caterham parts shop it seems the filters are roughly the same dia as the plug hole, what possibly woudn't work with the pipe in the inside on mine?
Any ideas or advice please? What do you think? Cheers Volker
I struggle with the "Undo the forward hose at the sump and remove fitting with gauze filter" bit, in special with the filter as there is nothing in. I can feel a pipe with the diameter of the plug hole on the inside but nothing else. As this is a used set I don't know whether it was getting lost or never there. From the pic https://caterhamparts.co.uk/dry-sump/4604-dry-sump... at the Caterham parts shop it seems the filters are roughly the same dia as the plug hole, what possibly woudn't work with the pipe in the inside on mine?
Any ideas or advice please? What do you think? Cheers Volker
The gauze filter is to stop large debris getting to the oil pump. Oil goes to the spin-on cartridge oil filter after that, so the gauze filter is not vital, but certainly desirable. It is the same diameter as the hole in the hose fitting and is held in place by the fitting in a blind hole in the sump which is cross drilled. The oil flows from the inside of the filter to the outer side.
I'm using Mobil1 5W-50 and it looks like it gets a bit thin with not to much load.
Situation was around 35°C outside I was driving a bit around, all heated up and gave it a go on a bit longer b road, maybe 1 mile, was more accelerating through the gears. Next hold the additional oil warning was on as the pressure was to low in idle. I fear it will be much worse and could potentially cause some damage as soon I will go on a track day or similar. Normal idle is around 1 bar.
Would it make sense to use a oil with higher viscosity?
Cheers Volker
Situation was around 35°C outside I was driving a bit around, all heated up and gave it a go on a bit longer b road, maybe 1 mile, was more accelerating through the gears. Next hold the additional oil warning was on as the pressure was to low in idle. I fear it will be much worse and could potentially cause some damage as soon I will go on a track day or similar. Normal idle is around 1 bar.
Would it make sense to use a oil with higher viscosity?
Cheers Volker
damdy-cash said:
I'm using Mobil1 5W-50 and it looks like it gets a bit thin with not to much load.
Situation was around 35°C outside I was driving a bit around, all heated up and gave it a go on a bit longer b road, maybe 1 mile, was more accelerating through the gears. Next hold the additional oil warning was on as the pressure was to low in idle. I fear it will be much worse and could potentially cause some damage as soon I will go on a track day or similar. Normal idle is around 1 bar.
Would it make sense to use a oil with higher viscosity?
Cheers Volker
Situation was around 35°C outside I was driving a bit around, all heated up and gave it a go on a bit longer b road, maybe 1 mile, was more accelerating through the gears. Next hold the additional oil warning was on as the pressure was to low in idle. I fear it will be much worse and could potentially cause some damage as soon I will go on a track day or similar. Normal idle is around 1 bar.
Would it make sense to use a oil with higher viscosity?
Cheers Volker
Those numbers look low to me though I've not run in that sort of ambient.
I use Millers NT 5/40 and, even on track the idle doesn't fall below 2-2.5 bar.
A higher viscosity might help but I'd be making sure everything else was OK too.
What temperature is the oil getting to? Mine is measured just before going into the engine. It's usually about 70 on the road up to maybe 80 on track.
Well, not sure what I could check from oitside beside the pressure above idle what looks fine as soon the revs increasing. The engine was new build and got around 500KM max.. sorry no oiltemp installed, thats the next job.
Rereading what David stated it could be at the edge but still within what has been experient?
Cheers Volker
Rereading what David stated it could be at the edge but still within what has been experient?
Cheers Volker
DCL said:
There can be big variations on Duratec's but for a healthy engine (when hot) idle should be 20-30 PSI (~1.5-2.0 bar). That should increase to 60-90 PSI (~4-6 bar) at max RPM. There's a very tight bearing tolerance on factory engines and this is often not preserved on some performance builds, so some engines may show (disturbingly) low pressures. But this not necessarily a problem provided it is in good condition and stable.
Edited by damdy-cash on Saturday 1st July 16:45
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