Rear spring lb rate
Discussion
Can anyone tell me what the rear spring rate Lb on the race car Cats?
I have a set of Avo 3 way adjustable shocks and find the 180lb rear springs to soft, I have just ordered 250lb springs for the rear matching the front.
Can anyone tell what they have used on there race car.
Thanks in advance
I have a set of Avo 3 way adjustable shocks and find the 180lb rear springs to soft, I have just ordered 250lb springs for the rear matching the front.
Can anyone tell what they have used on there race car.
Thanks in advance
DCL said:
Also interested in this - anyone got any info?
250 on the rear seems way too much to me, but would like to know what people use on track when they change from standard.
At first I thought that, After speaking with Avo they told me the 3 way shocks I bought had 250 at the front and 180 at the rear.250 on the rear seems way too much to me, but would like to know what people use on track when they change from standard.
Edited by DCL on Thursday 5th May 10:52
My car pitches down at the rear, on acceleration and its only 70 more than I have. I run 300bhp and find I get awful wheel spin out of corners and I'm trying to cure it.
sundance002 said:
DCL said:
Also interested in this - anyone got any info?
250 on the rear seems way too much to me, but would like to know what people use on track when they change from standard.
At first I thought that, After speaking with Avo they told me the 3 way shocks I bought had 250 at the front and 180 at the rear.250 on the rear seems way too much to me, but would like to know what people use on track when they change from standard.
Edited by DCL on Thursday 5th May 10:52
My car pitches down at the rear, on acceleration and its only 70 more than I have. I run 300bhp and find I get awful wheel spin out of corners and I'm trying to cure it.
Bearing in mind the fronts are at an angle, using the same spring rate at the rear will mean a much higher overall rate at the rear. Are you not just going to make the rear do even more work and lose more traction? Sounds like you are going the wrong way to me, but I'm still learning too 
Edited by DCL on Thursday 5th May 20:04
I run about the same power using 160lbs rear springs. They are actually on the high end of the spectrum for me.
Will probably go down a bit. To cure the problem I would play a bit more with the damper settings, probably going down in bump and lower torsionbar settings on the rear.
Do the dampers match with the springrates?
Will probably go down a bit. To cure the problem I would play a bit more with the damper settings, probably going down in bump and lower torsionbar settings on the rear.
Do the dampers match with the springrates?
Caterham race springs used to be 250 front and 210 rear.
Recent thinking (with good quality dampers to match) is that these are too stiff. For instance I have 225 front and 140 rear on my 260bhp sprint/hillclimb car and even those could be softer. You need the car to squat at the rear to get traction during hard acceleration. The damper rates need to be matched to the springs and the use you are putting the car too. As above, Simon at Meteor will give you good advice - and he sells some very nice dampers :-)
Recent thinking (with good quality dampers to match) is that these are too stiff. For instance I have 225 front and 140 rear on my 260bhp sprint/hillclimb car and even those could be softer. You need the car to squat at the rear to get traction during hard acceleration. The damper rates need to be matched to the springs and the use you are putting the car too. As above, Simon at Meteor will give you good advice - and he sells some very nice dampers :-)
Hi Craig, you have the same engine as I do and yes the rear gets lively at best I'm running CR500's on 15x8" rims when hot(track) it was a handful when on the road(cold) it was scary but fun, in the end I went 3way Penske's and matched springs from Meteor and with the rear roll bar set fully soft it transformed the car and even in the wet became predictable, there is you tube footage of Danny Whinstanly ? at Oulton park doing a splendid job in his car who Simon did the suspension.
Simons advice is free and well founded.
Simons advice is free and well founded.
So, there you have it. Three the same kind of answers and all got help from Simon to get to where they are now with their sevens.
My car has the superwide frontend with outboard Koni 2812 race dampers 275lbs springs (bigger angle) no ARB but well designed Koni bumpstop rubbers to deal with the roll if it comes to the point where it needs to be dealt with.
On the rear Koni 2612 dampers with smaller body and lower friction. 160lbs springs.
My car has the superwide frontend with outboard Koni 2812 race dampers 275lbs springs (bigger angle) no ARB but well designed Koni bumpstop rubbers to deal with the roll if it comes to the point where it needs to be dealt with.
On the rear Koni 2612 dampers with smaller body and lower friction. 160lbs springs.
Edited by harry b on Friday 6th May 17:56
k20erham said:
Hi Craig, you have the same engine as I do and yes the rear gets lively at best I'm running CR500's on 15x8" rims when hot(track) it was a handful when on the road(cold) it was scary but fun, in the end I went 3way Penske's and matched springs from Meteor and with the rear roll bar set fully soft it transformed the car and even in the wet became predictable, there is you tube footage of Danny Whinstanly ? at Oulton park doing a splendid job in his car who Simon did the suspension.
Simons advice is free and well founded.
TSimons advice is free and well founded.
Hi Ian, TBH We have got the power delivery really smooth, we set the VTec to come in around 4k. She is superb everywhere else, under breaking and turn in she is really smooth,The problem is, I have to stay off the power so long after apex that I loose chunks of time.
My rebound is set at 4 on the rear, dampers are matched to the spring rates,
I run on Avon Slicks Soft,
As you have no doubt found? Because of the large sump on the K20 we ran more ride height and had to allow for ground clearance, with the new design sump we made, it allowed us to set the ride height lower. This has improved the wheel spin slightly, As is suggested I will put the rear ARB on the softest, it now sits in the middle, Just getting frustrated.
On the bright side she didn't do to shabby last time out.
Hi Craig,
Traction was a problem for me until Simon sorted things, Mine is dry sumped anyways lowest point being the bell housing/ dry sump joint, what LSD are you running and what final drive? I run 3.19 a Ford 909 7.5" motorsport diff so I never run out of gearing, on paper with the overdrive Sadev box that's 212 MPH at 8500 RPM!!
Traction was a problem for me until Simon sorted things, Mine is dry sumped anyways lowest point being the bell housing/ dry sump joint, what LSD are you running and what final drive? I run 3.19 a Ford 909 7.5" motorsport diff so I never run out of gearing, on paper with the overdrive Sadev box that's 212 MPH at 8500 RPM!!
k20erham said:
Hi Craig,
Traction was a problem for me until Simon sorted things, Mine is dry sumped anyways lowest point being the bell housing/ dry sump joint, what LSD are you running and what final drive? I run 3.19 a Ford 909 7.5" motorsport diff so I never run out of gearing, on paper with the overdrive Sadev box that's 212 MPH at 8500 RPM!!
Think the LSD is a big part of the probest?Traction was a problem for me until Simon sorted things, Mine is dry sumped anyways lowest point being the bell housing/ dry sump joint, what LSD are you running and what final drive? I run 3.19 a Ford 909 7.5" motorsport diff so I never run out of gearing, on paper with the overdrive Sadev box that's 212 MPH at 8500 RPM!!
Have still got the original R500 LSD .
THanks for the tip, will look into the Ford Motorsport Diff. .
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