K series engine removal....

K series engine removal....

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Discussion

fergus

Original Poster:

6,430 posts

276 months

Thursday 19th November 2009
quotequote all
Do I *need* to remove the starter, in addition to the alternator?

I'm pulling the engine out w/o the box btw. Any tips?

Shaun_E

747 posts

261 months

Thursday 19th November 2009
quotequote all
The starter motor bolts to the bellhousing so if you are leaving the gearbox in you will have to remove the starter. It's only 3 bolts but the rear one is a bit of a pig - easier if you have allen key attachments for 3/8" drive socket.
If you have removable engine bay diagonals then take those out.
Don't forget the earth strap on the driver's side (apparently it will lift the front of the car if you forget to undo it - can't think how I know that redface)
You'll need to support the front of the gearbox/bellhousing once engine is out - I tie it to a bit of wood across the top chassis rails.

The Wookie

13,964 posts

229 months

Thursday 19th November 2009
quotequote all
I've done a few and never removed the alternator. You just need to be careful with the angle as you're lifting it. The starter however does need to come out.

If you're taking the box out afterwards, watch out for the oil dropping from the back of the prop

Oh, and take a good look at your knuckles... if this is the first time you've done it then they'll never look the same again hehe

fergus

Original Poster:

6,430 posts

276 months

Thursday 19th November 2009
quotequote all
thks for the tips guys!

I've not got removable engine bay diagonals, and the box won't be coming out with the engine. I presume all the DS pump (titan type, not pace) can stay on the short engine assy?

Red Seven

156 posts

198 months

Thursday 19th November 2009
quotequote all
Yes, the DS pump can remain in place, but ISTR that the LHS engine mount needs to be removed.

Red Seven

156 posts

198 months

Thursday 19th November 2009
quotequote all
Having thought about this, the last time I had an engine out, I think we did remove both engine mounts. No need to actually remove the DS pump, but the engine mount (which clamps the DS pump to the block) does get in the way with fixed diagonals.

Steve-B

710 posts

283 months

Tuesday 24th November 2009
quotequote all
I had to get the clutch, CRB, clutch arm and pressure plate replaced in our SV a few months ago. A pretty accurate list of the steps is as follows (and note, buy tons of rubber surgical gloves to keep hands safer!)

1) Disconnect / remove battery and top earthing wire
2) Remove silencer, disconnect exhaust manifold
3) Disconnect accelerator and clutch cables
4) Disconnect starter feeds
5) Disconnect Apollo reservoir
6) Disconnect ECU
7) Disconnect O2 sensor, unplug
8) Unplug injector loom connector
9) Disconnect Oil Pressure sender wire
10) Disconnect speedo sender cable
11) Remove circlips, disconnect Drive shaft @ transmission end
12) Disconnect Water Temp sender on water rail
13) Disconnect earthing wire below throttle bodies
14) Disconnect radiator, drain from front of engine
15) Disconnect heater hoses, drain
16) Disconnect PCV lead
17) Drain radiator expansion tank and disconnect hoses
18) Disconnect metal pipe to bottom of expansion tank (that goes to hose @ top of radiator)
19) unclip loom cable ties anywhere attached to frame
?? 20) disconnect steering knuckle @ steering box in front
?? 21) disconnect steering shaft @ pedal box, remove shaft
22) Attach crane to engine to support weight
23) Disconnect engine & transmission mounts
24) hoist (via "dipping maneuver") engine / transmission out of car, put onto stand

Once you've got the combined engine and transmission out of the car and on the bench the rest is pretty straightforward

1) remove bell housing
2) remove clutch cover
3) remove clutch centre plate, throwout bearing
4) replace 1-3

Voila, put it all in reverse order and put it back together.... ;-)smilesmilesmile