Discussion
Thanks allen. I'm very very pleased with them! I've gone through half a dozen wheel people before I found someone who would take my enquiries seriously!
They jumped through hoops to make me what I wanted, and the pictures don't do the results justice.
Have a look at the website here,
http://www.force-racing.co.uk/wheels-13/
Volkr thanks for the link. The RST is not for me though. As mentioned on the BC thread, IMO it's a bit too complicated. I prefer the H1 as it can use stock Hayabusa top ends.
I believe the original RST used Yamaha top ends, but the Yamaha engine became obsolete, meaning it had to then use bespoke top ends, which made it very expensive.
I also don't think there's any advantage to 5 valve heads. Yamaha race bikes never had 5 valve heads, only the road bikes, so I think the 20 valve logo was a marketing thing by Yamaha.
Cosworth dabbled a bit with 5 valve heads, and went back to 4 valves.
Taking nothing away from Mr. Savory though, the RST is a work of art!
They jumped through hoops to make me what I wanted, and the pictures don't do the results justice.
Have a look at the website here,
http://www.force-racing.co.uk/wheels-13/
Volkr thanks for the link. The RST is not for me though. As mentioned on the BC thread, IMO it's a bit too complicated. I prefer the H1 as it can use stock Hayabusa top ends.
I believe the original RST used Yamaha top ends, but the Yamaha engine became obsolete, meaning it had to then use bespoke top ends, which made it very expensive.
I also don't think there's any advantage to 5 valve heads. Yamaha race bikes never had 5 valve heads, only the road bikes, so I think the 20 valve logo was a marketing thing by Yamaha.
Cosworth dabbled a bit with 5 valve heads, and went back to 4 valves.
Taking nothing away from Mr. Savory though, the RST is a work of art!
Edited by mickrick on Tuesday 16th August 08:10
Hello again fellow pedants! Thought I'd boing this, as a PH search said it doesn't exist, and it's a PITA scrolling through hundreds of threads to find it!
It's been a while, so long in fact, that some of the pictures on this thread seem to have dissapeared?
Anyway, I'm on a roll again.
Nothing new to post yet, but I'm off on me travels next week in search of good ol' brummie engineering skills, meet me old mucka's drink beer, and talk s
t!
Rear brakes are next. I have a cunning plan! I would have liked to go for inboard discs, and save oodles of unsprung weight, but there's just not enough room with that pesky De-dion axle in the way.
So it'll be float in the bell 260mm ish solid discs, and a nice light 2 piston race calliper, in the usual place, and a novel idea for a parking brake to keep the IVA/MOT man happy. (which has been shamelessly nicked from another car manufacturer )
Watch this space!
If you're interested that is..........
Regards,
Mick.
It's been a while, so long in fact, that some of the pictures on this thread seem to have dissapeared?
Anyway, I'm on a roll again.
Nothing new to post yet, but I'm off on me travels next week in search of good ol' brummie engineering skills, meet me old mucka's drink beer, and talk st!Rear brakes are next. I have a cunning plan! I would have liked to go for inboard discs, and save oodles of unsprung weight, but there's just not enough room with that pesky De-dion axle in the way.
So it'll be float in the bell 260mm ish solid discs, and a nice light 2 piston race calliper, in the usual place, and a novel idea for a parking brake to keep the IVA/MOT man happy. (which has been shamelessly nicked from another car manufacturer
)Watch this space!
If you're interested that is..........Regards,
Mick.
Hi Farliq, where's "Sabby"?
SS, I think the HPC is one of the iconic Sevens, up there with the Superlight R, JPE, BD and R500K. The pictures of your nice gold wheels made my mind up for me, as I was torn between that and black. Thanks for the inspiration!
As far as fantasy goes, it's mine too I'm not a rich man, but I'm fortunate enough to have a good job, at the moment, to be able to put a bit aside each month for my hobbies. I take each stage at a time, and treat each one like a project. Finish one, save a bit, move onto the next. I like to think I'm a patient Guy, and I enjoy my time tinkering about in the garage, so for me I don't need to rush anything.
rossb, I'm happy the thread has given you inspiration! Get the old girl out and give her some love!
I don't think my car can be compared with Sugino's though. A different animal really. I have every picture I've ever seen of that car saved on my computer! Wonderfull!
Maybe one day I'll put the IRS back end in mine...
And in honor of the great mans work, some of his automotive Porn!
If you reading this Mike, hope you don't mind?
SS, I think the HPC is one of the iconic Sevens, up there with the Superlight R, JPE, BD and R500K. The pictures of your nice gold wheels made my mind up for me, as I was torn between that and black. Thanks for the inspiration!
As far as fantasy goes, it's mine too
I'm not a rich man, but I'm fortunate enough to have a good job, at the moment, to be able to put a bit aside each month for my hobbies. I take each stage at a time, and treat each one like a project. Finish one, save a bit, move onto the next. I like to think I'm a patient Guy, and I enjoy my time tinkering about in the garage, so for me I don't need to rush anything.rossb, I'm happy the thread has given you inspiration! Get the old girl out and give her some love!
I don't think my car can be compared with Sugino's though. A different animal really. I have every picture I've ever seen of that car saved on my computer! Wonderfull!
Maybe one day I'll put the IRS back end in mine...
And in honor of the great mans work, some of his automotive Porn!
If you reading this Mike, hope you don't mind?
Edited by mickrick on Thursday 26th January 19:08
Hi DDq, a 7 x 13" Force Racing wheel is 3.4kg and an 8 x 13" wheel is 3.6 kg. But the centers are CNC machined billet, not cast magnesium.
I tried to get Mike Barnby to make me some in cast aluminium, as I didn't want to send magnesium wheels back to U.K. every year for crack testing.
I spoke to Mike a couple of times, and he was supposed to come back to me when he had some centers cast. He never did.
The fellow at Force Racing went out of his way to make the wheels package my brake setup. Considering the quality and the fact they are bespoke, they where extremely reasonably priced IMO.
Regards,
Mick.
I tried to get Mike Barnby to make me some in cast aluminium, as I didn't want to send magnesium wheels back to U.K. every year for crack testing.
I spoke to Mike a couple of times, and he was supposed to come back to me when he had some centers cast. He never did.
The fellow at Force Racing went out of his way to make the wheels package my brake setup. Considering the quality and the fact they are bespoke, they where extremely reasonably priced IMO.
Regards,
Mick.
Farlig, have a word with Carl at Force, he can split one piece wheels and make them two piece. He's done it with 10" Minilites here.
http://www.force-racing.co.uk/wheels-10/
He may be able to help you out there.
Here's a 10" minilite he did. I don't think he'll mind me nicking the picture from his website.
I looked into Ti driveshafts, and I don't think it's the way to go. It's only stronger than steel "wieght for wieght" So you're not really gaining anything.
Better going for 300M. If you want to save wieght and reduce rotational inertia then get them gun drilled.
You need to speak to these people about driveshafts. They'll re-make your shafts in 300M.
http://www.drivelink.com/index.cfm
They wont gun drill them for you though.
Ah I thought you meant Sabinillas. But I didn't live on a yacht there. I lived in an old bling gypsy caravan on the beach at Camping Chullera!
I later upgraded to a fishermans house on the beach, with a cane shade in front, where I parked my Vokswagon Van.
There's a promenade in front of that house now!
Cheers,
Mick.
http://www.force-racing.co.uk/wheels-10/
He may be able to help you out there.
Here's a 10" minilite he did. I don't think he'll mind me nicking the picture from his website.
I looked into Ti driveshafts, and I don't think it's the way to go. It's only stronger than steel "wieght for wieght" So you're not really gaining anything.
Better going for 300M. If you want to save wieght and reduce rotational inertia then get them gun drilled.
You need to speak to these people about driveshafts. They'll re-make your shafts in 300M.
http://www.drivelink.com/index.cfm
They wont gun drill them for you though.
Ah I thought you meant Sabinillas. But I didn't live on a yacht there. I lived in an old bling gypsy caravan on the beach at Camping Chullera!
I later upgraded to a fishermans house on the beach, with a cane shade in front, where I parked my Vokswagon Van.
There's a promenade in front of that house now!
Cheers,
Mick.
Edited by mickrick on Friday 27th January 14:38
I didn't have much luck with Harry at Image either, and I found the fellow at Superlight a total waste of time when I contacted them about the ultralight wheel.
It's not easy when you want something out of the ordinary. Either your not taken seriously, or they'd rather supply something that's easier or off the shelf.
It takes a long time to sort the chaff, and find someone on the same wavelength.
As for living in Spain, well it sounds glamorous, but civilised it aint! Those days are long gone.
Anyway I look forward to your thread about yout Ti axle. You've got the idea, now just do it!
It's not easy when you want something out of the ordinary. Either your not taken seriously, or they'd rather supply something that's easier or off the shelf.
It takes a long time to sort the chaff, and find someone on the same wavelength.
As for living in Spain, well it sounds glamorous, but civilised it aint! Those days are long gone.
Anyway I look forward to your thread about yout Ti axle.
You've got the idea, now just do it!Hi Farlig,
Still sorting out rear brakes. The idea has been fine honed, and some parts should be made very soon
I'm also waiting on news of 2-1/2" 10 gauge seemless Ti tube
These things take time.
Hi Jim, the blisters have healed Not sure I understand your banter regarding the strip and disco Jimbo old boy
Still sorting out rear brakes. The idea has been fine honed, and some parts should be made very soon
I'm also waiting on news of 2-1/2" 10 gauge seemless Ti tube
These things take time.
Hi Jim, the blisters have healed
Not sure I understand your banter regarding the strip and disco Jimbo old boy I also think an English axle in Ti would be a lot of work ! And very expensive !
At the end of the day, a de-dion tube is basicaly just that, a tube with a couple of flanges at the ends.
Fingers crossed, the material will, er, materialise Hopefully it will be a stock size. If not, it'll be a no go.
As for my free time, it's precious. I've had the boat 8 years, and I've been collecting stuff for my car since 07.
I got a couple of hours in on the boat last night, by putting the tools in my car first thing in the morning, then going straight from work and doing what I can untill it gets dark.
I've also managed to fit in a total house re-furb (Two houses into one) in the last 6 yeasrs too.
My next project is a 12m x 8m garage... (with a very shiny floor )
At the end of the day, a de-dion tube is basicaly just that, a tube with a couple of flanges at the ends.
Fingers crossed, the material will, er, materialise
Hopefully it will be a stock size. If not, it'll be a no go.As for my free time, it's precious. I've had the boat 8 years, and I've been collecting stuff for my car since 07.
I got a couple of hours in on the boat last night, by putting the tools in my car first thing in the morning, then going straight from work and doing what I can untill it gets dark.
I've also managed to fit in a total house re-furb (Two houses into one) in the last 6 yeasrs too.
My next project is a 12m x 8m garage... (with a very shiny floor
)Hi Simon,
I'd be very interested to know where he got his stock from. Still looking for some 2 1/2" 10 gauge tube...
I hope you'll be starting a rebuild thread on your SV ?
I now have some drawings for some of my rear brake parts, and some progress has been made !
5" brake shoes from a motorcickle have been found Should be able to shave a bit more weight from them.
Can anyone guess I wonder?.....
I'd be very interested to know where he got his stock from. Still looking for some 2 1/2" 10 gauge tube...
I hope you'll be starting a rebuild thread on your SV ?
I now have some drawings for some of my rear brake parts, and some progress has been made !
5" brake shoes from a motorcickle have been found
Should be able to shave a bit more weight from them.Can anyone guess I wonder?.....
Good guess! 267mm solid float in the bell disc, and two pot AP CP3676 calliper. The shoes will fit inside the alloy disc bell. That's what I have the drawings for now.
With the backplate for the shoes, (which will use the original hub mounting bolts) I recon we can get it below the 540g of a Hi-Spec spot calliper, and it'll look much prettier and less cluttered IMO.
BGD came up trumps again!
Hi Dave,
I don't think I'll need a vented disc on the rear, as they'll be a bit bigger than the standard 240mm discs. The fronts will be doing most of the work, they are also a bit bigger at 279mm, about as big as I could get into a 13" wheel.
Vented will also be quite a bit heavier than the solid 9.7mm.
The disc and caliper is also a Formula car caliper.
I'm also going by advice from BGD, they've done a couple of Caterham racers, and do lots of historic F1 stuff, so know a thing or two about brakes. They also do Moto GP and BSB.
When I was last there in January, they showed me a new hub and a carbon disc they'd made for one of the 6 wheel Tyrell's I was shocked at how small it all was!
What size are the C400 race car rear discs, do you know ?
I'll be happy to send you what I have, but if you don't mind I'll ask David if he minds me showing his drawings first, or if you're interested in a similar setup, you could drop him a line. The hard work has been done
Cheers,
Mick.
I don't think I'll need a vented disc on the rear, as they'll be a bit bigger than the standard 240mm discs. The fronts will be doing most of the work, they are also a bit bigger at 279mm, about as big as I could get into a 13" wheel.
Vented will also be quite a bit heavier than the solid 9.7mm.
The disc and caliper is also a Formula car caliper.
I'm also going by advice from BGD, they've done a couple of Caterham racers, and do lots of historic F1 stuff, so know a thing or two about brakes. They also do Moto GP and BSB.
When I was last there in January, they showed me a new hub and a carbon disc they'd made for one of the 6 wheel Tyrell's
I was shocked at how small it all was!What size are the C400 race car rear discs, do you know ?
I'll be happy to send you what I have, but if you don't mind I'll ask David if he minds me showing his drawings first, or if you're interested in a similar setup, you could drop him a line. The hard work has been done
Cheers,
Mick.
Thanks for that Dave.
So they where overheating a vented disc? Crickey! Did they find a cure?
All I know is BGD have used the same disc and Calliper on a Seven race car, and it's apparently working very well.
At the end of the day, it's a 550kg car, so they must really cane them to over heat the brakes! Don't forget my car is for the road, so I'll be using a different compound pad. I have DS2500's in the front callipers. They had to be cut from a larger donor pad, as you will know the AP Radi-cal calliper isn't normally used on a road car, so no road compund pads where available.
So they where overheating a vented disc? Crickey! Did they find a cure?
All I know is BGD have used the same disc and Calliper on a Seven race car, and it's apparently working very well.
At the end of the day, it's a 550kg car, so they must really cane them to over heat the brakes! Don't forget my car is for the road, so I'll be using a different compound pad. I have DS2500's in the front callipers. They had to be cut from a larger donor pad, as you will know the AP Radi-cal calliper isn't normally used on a road car, so no road compund pads where available.
(He does all my boat stuff I didn't say I was going to weld
I said I have a welding Maistro friend, i.e. if it involves joining metal, any metal, he can do it, and very pretty it is too !
I wouldn't bother with a pushrod front end. I didn't like it on the CSR. Plus it increases unsprung weight
The only advantage I can see from it is aero, and you can pretend you're an F1 driver, especialy if you have a removable steering wheel...
The IRS is great on bumpy roads though. I asked bruce if he'd change mine, but he didn't want to do it.
The other nice thing about the IRS, is that without the DD tube in the way, you could have inboard discs on the back.
I said I have a welding Maistro friend, i.e. if it involves joining metal, any metal, he can do it, and very pretty it is too !
I wouldn't bother with a pushrod front end. I didn't like it on the CSR. Plus it increases unsprung weight
The only advantage I can see from it is aero, and you can pretend you're an F1 driver, especialy if you have a removable steering wheel...
The IRS is great on bumpy roads though. I asked bruce if he'd change mine, but he didn't want to do it.
The other nice thing about the IRS, is that without the DD tube in the way, you could have inboard discs on the back.
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