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It's a great shot. Sorry to be pedantic but that won't guarantee their picture not being over exposed (or even underexposed for that matter - especially since they're unlikely to have a filter like yours for their smaller cameras). If you set your camera to aperture priority mode and adjust the aperture to the highest value (usually f22 on most cameras) then your camera will choose the longest shutter speed available to you whilst still properly exposing the picture. Does that make sense? You're telling the camera to allow the least amount of light through the lens so the camera has to compensate by allowing that light through for the longest period - and thus the effect of 'motion blur' that you want.
You can be more creative than that by going onto manual, choosing a high aperture value and then doing the run a few times with different shutter speeds until you get the exposure and level of blur you like best. Or indeed by choosing a shutter speed and doing a few runs at different (high) aperture values to get the exposure you want.
Again, sorry for contradicting you. Just trying to avoid unnecessary frustration on their parts.
You can be more creative than that by going onto manual, choosing a high aperture value and then doing the run a few times with different shutter speeds until you get the exposure and level of blur you like best. Or indeed by choosing a shutter speed and doing a few runs at different (high) aperture values to get the exposure you want.
Again, sorry for contradicting you. Just trying to avoid unnecessary frustration on their parts.
timrw81 said:
It's a great shot. Sorry to be pedantic but that won't guarantee their picture not being over exposed (or even underexposed for that matter - especially since they're unlikely to have a filter like yours for their smaller cameras). If you set your camera to aperture priority mode and adjust the aperture to the highest value (usually f22 on most cameras) then your camera will choose the longest shutter speed available to you whilst still properly exposing the picture. Does that make sense? You're telling the camera to allow the least amount of light through the lens so the camera has to compensate by allowing that light through for the longest period - and thus the effect of 'motion blur' that you want.
You can be more creative than that by going onto manual, choosing a high aperture value and then doing the run a few times with different shutter speeds until you get the exposure and level of blur you like best. Or indeed by choosing a shutter speed and doing a few runs at different (high) aperture values to get the exposure you want.
Again, sorry for contradicting you. Just trying to avoid unnecessary frustration on their parts.
You're not contradicting - I was trying to give a short answer and you have explained it much better. I don't really know much about compact cameras, so couldn't give a proper answer. You can be more creative than that by going onto manual, choosing a high aperture value and then doing the run a few times with different shutter speeds until you get the exposure and level of blur you like best. Or indeed by choosing a shutter speed and doing a few runs at different (high) aperture values to get the exposure you want.
Again, sorry for contradicting you. Just trying to avoid unnecessary frustration on their parts.
percy said:
bertie said:
Just curious, but what clamp do you use?
I have a Manfrotto Superclamp (035) attached to a Manfrotto tripod head (484) using a brass pin. Do you trust the threaded insert in the bottom of your DSLR?
I always work it might pull or vibrate out leaving me with a mount and a stud on the car, and the camera down the road!
Am I worrying unnecessarily?
If I'm using a video camera (I don't have a bullet-cam) on the car for a trackday etc, I put a piece of neoprene from an old wetsuit between the rollbar and the mount. This reduces any vibration. So far (touch wood) there haven't been any issues and the whole thing is pretty sturdy. I also tie the video camera on with some webbing just in case.
I have used this mount for years on the roll bar of all of my Caterhams
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/camera-mo...
I bought it over 10 years ago for my very first Caterham, when all we had was a Sony tape camcorder, way before all the new digital stuff.
I still use it now, both for my VIO POV bullet cms head, as well as my Nikon SLR.
It's nice and scure for the SLR, as its very sturdy, and I feel I can trust it, I have had my Nikon D300s on there on a 100 mile trip to Donnigton Park and back.
It's obviously over kill for the bullet cam, but the range of horizontal and vertical plane adjustment does make it very versatile.
I have changed from the mechanical roll bar bolts to the manfrotto super clamp as mentioned else where, it allows me to move the position very easily!
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/camera-mo...
I bought it over 10 years ago for my very first Caterham, when all we had was a Sony tape camcorder, way before all the new digital stuff.
I still use it now, both for my VIO POV bullet cms head, as well as my Nikon SLR.
It's nice and scure for the SLR, as its very sturdy, and I feel I can trust it, I have had my Nikon D300s on there on a 100 mile trip to Donnigton Park and back.
It's obviously over kill for the bullet cam, but the range of horizontal and vertical plane adjustment does make it very versatile.
I have changed from the mechanical roll bar bolts to the manfrotto super clamp as mentioned else where, it allows me to move the position very easily!
nigelpugh7 said:
I have used this mount for years on the roll bar of all of my Caterhams
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/camera-mo...
I bought it over 10 years ago for my very first Caterham, when all we had was a Sony tape camcorder, way before all the new digital stuff.
I still use it now, both for my VIO POV bullet cms head, as well as my Nikon SLR.
It's nice and scure for the SLR, as its very sturdy, and I feel I can trust it, I have had my Nikon D300s on there on a 100 mile trip to Donnigton Park and back.
It's obviously over kill for the bullet cam, but the range of horizontal and vertical plane adjustment does make it very versatile.
I have changed from the mechanical roll bar bolts to the manfrotto super clamp as mentioned else where, it allows me to move the position very easily!
I have one of these for sale if it's of interest? Email me for more info http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/camera-mo...
I bought it over 10 years ago for my very first Caterham, when all we had was a Sony tape camcorder, way before all the new digital stuff.
I still use it now, both for my VIO POV bullet cms head, as well as my Nikon SLR.
It's nice and scure for the SLR, as its very sturdy, and I feel I can trust it, I have had my Nikon D300s on there on a 100 mile trip to Donnigton Park and back.
It's obviously over kill for the bullet cam, but the range of horizontal and vertical plane adjustment does make it very versatile.
I have changed from the mechanical roll bar bolts to the manfrotto super clamp as mentioned else where, it allows me to move the position very easily!
Thanks to Tim for the set up advice.
I have just used my small Nikon J1 to play with a few shots in my R500 today.
I set it to interval timing, so that it would take up to 30 shots in total at 30 second intervals.
The last one was with it in full manual mode.
I need to play about with them but not too bad for a first attempt.
I have just used my small Nikon J1 to play with a few shots in my R500 today.
I set it to interval timing, so that it would take up to 30 shots in total at 30 second intervals.
The last one was with it in full manual mode.
I need to play about with them but not too bad for a first attempt.
percy said:
I like the first of those shots, as it gives a good impression of movement and the car is still sharp. Good stuff 
Thanks Percy,Yes the first shot has the best close field focus, so my r500 is in sharp focus.
But I think the last photo had the best sense of motion/flow/action, even if the foreground and caterham are not so sharp!
Brilliant job Nigel! I like the last one best. The light and shade of the trees makes it, for me. I can't decide whether you've actually got a bit of camera shake going on, causing the slight blur of the car (despite it being clamped up to the max), or whether your focus is set to the very far distance and the car is thus not sharp. I'd suspect the former because at high aperture values and a wide angle lens like that, the car should be acceptably sharp. Do you remember if it was a particularly bumpy road? Seriously good first attempt though!
timrw81 said:
Brilliant job Nigel! I like the last one best. The light and shade of the trees makes it, for me. I can't decide whether you've actually got a bit of camera shake going on, causing the slight blur of the car (despite it being clamped up to the max), or whether your focus is set to the very far distance and the car is thus not sharp. I'd suspect the former because at high aperture values and a wide angle lens like that, the car should be acceptably sharp. Do you remember if it was a particularly bumpy road? Seriously good first attempt though!
Thanks Tim,it was your set up advice that inspired me to go our and get those shots.I seem to recall it was a very bumpy road, and yes I was doing about 50 mph, so not ideal. I forgot I was there to take photos!
I was using my manfrotto superclamp and multipoint adjustable platform as mentioned before, but that does still allow some camera shake, even at low speeds!
Using my little nikon j1, in manual setting F11 is the highest it will go to with that F2.8 lens on.
I had it in full manual for that last shot, taking the settings that produced the best shots as a guide, when it was in aperture priority in the first few shots.
I think I set it too 1/25" for the shutter.
If the weather is good this weekend I might try my Nikon D600, but i only have a F1.4 50mm FX lens for that, it. Might not be wide enough, unless I use some of my wider dx lenses!
Look out for some more experiments later!
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