Duratec / imperial chassis build thread.

Duratec / imperial chassis build thread.

Author
Discussion

2slo

1,998 posts

168 months

Friday 3rd December 2010
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Good progress, enjoying reading this.
Looks like you'll need a fair sized bonnet cut out to clear the air filter when it goes on.

Mark.

Finchy172

389 posts

220 months

Friday 3rd December 2010
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Make sure you drill a small hole in the engine oil cap and lockwire this to the tag on the rocker cover.

And ditch the battery for small Varley red top 40 with a custom case its neater and lighter.

very good progress so far looking good

mic

376 posts

234 months

Friday 3rd December 2010
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The CSR brackets mount in the same way as the new type, on the front wishbone mounting.

David Long

1,216 posts

180 months

Friday 3rd December 2010
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It is looking good smile

What's the capacity of the oil tank? I wanted a 'proper' round one but, in the end, decided the triangular Caterham one had a good capacity, even though it was not the ideal shape. If I did it again I'd try what you've done.

Edit:
The primary looks great, can't wait to see them all in! Who makes the water rail casting?



Edited by David Long on Friday 3rd December 18:39

MadHatter7

231 posts

177 months

Monday 6th December 2010
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Any updates Jason ?

mic

376 posts

234 months

Wednesday 8th December 2010
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The brake pipe looks very close to the exhaust, I would run it down the inlet side.

2slo

1,998 posts

168 months

Wednesday 8th December 2010
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Fine looking exhaust system Jason. Do you have a cat for the MOT or are you just going to see what the emmissions are like without it?

Mark.

mickrick

3,700 posts

174 months

Wednesday 8th December 2010
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Hi Jason, if like me, you're cursed with being a perfectionist, the pedals are a mess aren't they?
This is when you can see Caterhams are built to a price.
I have a 2007 LHD Arch SV chassis (I was told back then to get my order in quick, as it was the last chance to get an Arch chassis rolleyes )
and my pedals are a mess!
Have you considered cutting the Caterham ones out? I am.
AP Racing do some incredibly nice pedal boxes, with remote bias adjustment. Although they are eye wateringly expensive!
I'm considering floor mounted, as I think this is much more ergonomic.
http://www.apracing.com/info/index.asp?section=Ped...
If you need to talk to anyone about AP stuff, I can't reccomend BG Developments enough! You'll find them much more helpfull than AP themselves.
Proper engineers too!
http://www.bgdevelopments.co.uk/

Edited by mickrick on Wednesday 8th December 10:29

sfaulds

653 posts

279 months

Wednesday 8th December 2010
quotequote all
mic said:
The brake pipe looks very close to the exhaust, I would run it down the inlet side.
Beat me to it Mick!

I'd change the front mount on that water rail too - they used to break on the CSR race cars, then leak at the rear. Or change it altogether to something less fragile.

Why do you have a front mounted tank and a short passenger footwell?

MadHatter7

231 posts

177 months

Wednesday 8th December 2010
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2slo - if you find the right MOT station the Cat & emissions will not be an issue

MadHatter7

231 posts

177 months

Wednesday 8th December 2010
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Jason i have details of another pedal box conversion from Ellie Boone
Much cheaper than the AP version i am sure, give me a shout if you want details

2slo

1,998 posts

168 months

Wednesday 8th December 2010
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CC Midlands are building mine so I'm not worried about the IVA. I've ordered it with the cat bypass pipe and a boxed cat to put on a shelf in the garage in case I need it when it's 3 years old.

Mark.

mickrick

3,700 posts

174 months

Thursday 9th December 2010
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Ooh Ooh! CSR diff struts you say?
I've asked CC about those twice, and couldn't get a straight answer.
Are the top bolts the standard harness bolts?
Can you give me a pointer on the diff bolts?

Cheers,
Mick.

Finchy172

389 posts

220 months

Thursday 9th December 2010
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mickrick said:
Ooh Ooh! CSR diff struts you say?
I've asked CC about those twice, and couldn't get a straight answer.
Are the top bolts the standard harness bolts?
Can you give me a pointer on the diff bolts?

Cheers,
Mick.
Top bolts are same thread as harness bolts with a washer either side of the mount and nylock. Usually run the other way up so Nylock is at the top in order to remove the diff quickly if required.

mickrick

3,700 posts

174 months

Thursday 9th December 2010
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Thanks! smile
Special order usualy means we'll stick 50 quid on. rolleyes
Still reeling after my special order steering rack, which they got wrong, and which I recon is a CSR one that was in stock. grumpy
Need the diff struts though.
Thanks again for the info.
Keep the pictures coming!

Dave J

885 posts

267 months

Thursday 9th December 2010
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is there no bushes between the diff/mounts/chassis ?

wouldnt fancy that myself nono

mickrick

3,700 posts

174 months

Thursday 9th December 2010
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Jason, have you used washers with the chamfer on one side, next to the bush?
(same as the wishbone washers)

Conian

8,030 posts

202 months

Thursday 9th December 2010
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good build, will follow with interest

felixgogo

155 posts

168 months

Friday 10th December 2010
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Awesome build! Very impressive..

I would like to do something similar - but based on a Rover 1.6, a nice touring Caterham..

How do you go about getting an Arch chassis , and still avoid a 'Q' reg? I have a pre 63 regisration I would like to ulimately transfer to the car, and I would need to ensure the car is a current reg.

If I ordered a Classic kit from Caterham - can I specify an Arch chassis?

mickrick

3,700 posts

174 months

Friday 10th December 2010
quotequote all
Then you have endless chew with them sending you metric parts! banghead
South that is, not CC Midlands. never had any dealings with them.
As an aside, I used to work quite close by though, at Cat in Desford. smile

Edited by mickrick on Friday 10th December 13:30