Project Cars Xbox - Official topic
Discussion
AdamST said:
When you press A and the box comes up saying (please assign the new configuration) press the button you wish to use for that specific motion
Example:
Press A on gear shift up, then when the box appears press B ( this will then assign. Button B to gear shift up.
Hope that helps.
I got this far and it told me not all buttons assignedExample:
Press A on gear shift up, then when the box appears press B ( this will then assign. Button B to gear shift up.
Hope that helps.
I'm going to be one of the slow one's on this. I have the game, Been trying to get used to it but have had little time to play it so car. Only just managing to quail on the Clio's I have it set to pro and adjusted the handling quiet a bit but will take more time to get used to it
But liking it so far
But liking it so far
Oh man this is hard. Just done the first two karting championships and I've never gripped my pad so hard. I'm gonna have forearms like Popeye after playing this for a while. I think I've been nannied with rewinds and arcades handling for so long. I've got everything off and ai only at 30% and I can't win every race still. Good fun though
Anyone else have some weird bugs?
After contact with an AI and I get punted off, my left and right get switched, I think I'm correcting a spin, but I'm driving into it. It resets when I let go of the stick and press it in the same direction again.
You can reverse on the start line a little then put it into first and as long as you don't go past the start line before the light goes green you can get a rolling start. Did that by accident.
On the start it shows 1 on the steering wheel, but it's actually in N. Sitting revving away thinking it's first. Hitting up gear actually makes it first gear.
Gravelly sound sometimes, comes and gos.
After contact with an AI and I get punted off, my left and right get switched, I think I'm correcting a spin, but I'm driving into it. It resets when I let go of the stick and press it in the same direction again.
You can reverse on the start line a little then put it into first and as long as you don't go past the start line before the light goes green you can get a rolling start. Did that by accident.
On the start it shows 1 on the steering wheel, but it's actually in N. Sitting revving away thinking it's first. Hitting up gear actually makes it first gear.
Gravelly sound sometimes, comes and gos.
I've noticed one or two bugs, like one of the settings (I forget which) doesn't have the number 6 in it. It goes 5 > 7 > 7...
Starting to gel with the handling of the cars now but can I hell be competitive with the kart... The first championship with 60% AI and no aids leaves me languishing in 12th place after a couple of corners!
Will admit, the California Highway is a fun track - 13 miles or thereabouts and more corners than the ring, but I can't get past T2 without blowing the engine.
I don't think I've ever focused so much on a game in my entire gaming history - turning off driving aids means that the concentration this thing demands from you is insane!
Starting to gel with the handling of the cars now but can I hell be competitive with the kart... The first championship with 60% AI and no aids leaves me languishing in 12th place after a couple of corners!
Will admit, the California Highway is a fun track - 13 miles or thereabouts and more corners than the ring, but I can't get past T2 without blowing the engine.
I don't think I've ever focused so much on a game in my entire gaming history - turning off driving aids means that the concentration this thing demands from you is insane!
Not sure I understand the bravdo of turning off all driver aids. Some of these cars are pretty undrivable in real life with driving aids turned off. Would you jump in a 458 and turn everything off?
Anyway, I'm finding the performance on XB1 really not up to scratch. It plays like a 30fps game with frequent slowdown let alone a 60fos game. It's a shame as I love all the British tracks and car roster.
Anyway, I'm finding the performance on XB1 really not up to scratch. It plays like a 30fps game with frequent slowdown let alone a 60fos game. It's a shame as I love all the British tracks and car roster.
Never really considered it as bravado, it's just how I play all racing games.
I guess it's the same reason as why people like Lamborghini give you the option of a 'Corsa' all-off mode - some people like driving like that.
A lot of the cars wouldn't come with TCS/ABS/STM etc like the old Lotus GP cars as well, Assetto Corsa has this nailed down allowing "OEM" mode, in which only the aids available on the real version of the car are available in game. A 2012 458 will have all of the toys, a 1960s Lotus GP car will have a throttle, a brake and a clutch.
I guess it's the same reason as why people like Lamborghini give you the option of a 'Corsa' all-off mode - some people like driving like that.
A lot of the cars wouldn't come with TCS/ABS/STM etc like the old Lotus GP cars as well, Assetto Corsa has this nailed down allowing "OEM" mode, in which only the aids available on the real version of the car are available in game. A 2012 458 will have all of the toys, a 1960s Lotus GP car will have a throttle, a brake and a clutch.
For you Xbox wheel users, the below might be useful in setting up or tweaking your FFB to have an idea about the parameters and what they do.
These may help you but trial and error is always good with these things.
Firstly, your wheel may have a deadzone which will mean you are not getting effects at the low end of the scale which you really want to have.
To help this you can adjust the Deadzone Removal line in the calibration
A Thrustmaster wheel between 0.05-0.08 deadzone removal. Fanatec Porsche wheels are very variable, could be <0.10 or in some cases up to 0.25. Fanatec CSW will probably be similar to Thrustmaster.
The Deadzone Removal increases the minimum force sent to your wheel so adjust it slowly upwards until you are getting the detail in road and surface you want, to much and you will get oscillation. So start at 0.02 and go up in small increments
Put your FFB strength to 90 as a start and up to 100 if you want more and your tyre force up to 100/10 maybe more if you like.
Relative Adjust Gain 1.10
Relative Adjust Bleed 0.10
Relative Adjust Clamp 0.95
Now these are the settings you access from your pit garage, individual FFB per car (just make sure you save the changes before going out, you can always revert to default)
master scale - A value that will multiply the individual scales. Useful tip: Using a low master scale and correspondingly making the individual scales higher will make the FFB feel less "rattly", but at the same time you will lose a bit of sharpness, so there is a golden middle point somewhere. Using a high Master scale and low individual scales is another option, but you will get a lot of rattling/spikes on the FFB. Its the FFB volume button
Fx scale (longitudinal forces) - Unless you use really much of this, you will mainly notice this as an added "noise" on the FFB when you hit kerbs etc. Higher amounts of Fx will make the steering wheel counter steer automatically against the slide, but will also make the steering movement on normal cornering feel heavier.
Fy scale (lateral forces) - You feel this mainly as a force that acts against your steering movement. Very easy to use too much and over saturate the feel making the FFB feel dull.
Fz scale (vertical forces) - Easiest to notice as a force that turns the wheel in the direction of the turning. Kind of acts as a "counter force" against Fy, so sometimes when you have too much Fy, adding a bit more of Fz can make the wheel feel lighter again while turning (a risk of saturating the FFB signal though if you just keep adding these on top of each others to compensate).
Mz scale (twisting forces) - Allows you to feel "grip level". Loosing grip will untwist the tires rubber, so adjusting this as high as is possible without creating the "center step" will help you feel better what the car is doing.
•As a general note for all of the above (Mz, Fx, Fy, Fz), when you start to feel a distinctive FFB step/notch near the center of the wheel, you have too much of something there (or too much of all of them ). Or then you might have just a "dull feel" -> then start to go lower starting with Fy.
Simplified:
Fx: this is the FFB component representing the longitudinal force on the tyre contact patch. This should determine FFB when accelerating or braking
Fy: this is the FFB component representing the lateral force on the tyre contact patch. Very important for feeling mass transfer/inertia of the car when cornering.
Fz: this is the FFB component representing the vertical force on the tyre contact patch. This plays an important part in the 'road feel' of the FFB, i.e. when going over bumps in the road.
Mz: this is the FFB component representing the twisting force of the wheels, i.e. rotation along the vertical axis of the wheel. It is the self-aligning force of the wheels into the driving direction and is most important for getting the 'classic' feel of the FFB getting lighter when the front tyres lose grip
Try these settings for the Formula C in the garage FFB menu ensuring you have your bases set as outlined above
Master Scale 40
Fx Scale 60
Fx Smoothing 20
Fy Scale 40
Fy Smoothing 0
Fz Scale 70
Fz Smoothing 0
Mz Scale 80
Mz Smoothing 0
If that works nicely then I will find some for all the cars as these settings were done on PC and not sure how they will translate.
These may help you but trial and error is always good with these things.
Firstly, your wheel may have a deadzone which will mean you are not getting effects at the low end of the scale which you really want to have.
To help this you can adjust the Deadzone Removal line in the calibration
A Thrustmaster wheel between 0.05-0.08 deadzone removal. Fanatec Porsche wheels are very variable, could be <0.10 or in some cases up to 0.25. Fanatec CSW will probably be similar to Thrustmaster.
The Deadzone Removal increases the minimum force sent to your wheel so adjust it slowly upwards until you are getting the detail in road and surface you want, to much and you will get oscillation. So start at 0.02 and go up in small increments
Put your FFB strength to 90 as a start and up to 100 if you want more and your tyre force up to 100/10 maybe more if you like.
Relative Adjust Gain 1.10
Relative Adjust Bleed 0.10
Relative Adjust Clamp 0.95
Now these are the settings you access from your pit garage, individual FFB per car (just make sure you save the changes before going out, you can always revert to default)
master scale - A value that will multiply the individual scales. Useful tip: Using a low master scale and correspondingly making the individual scales higher will make the FFB feel less "rattly", but at the same time you will lose a bit of sharpness, so there is a golden middle point somewhere. Using a high Master scale and low individual scales is another option, but you will get a lot of rattling/spikes on the FFB. Its the FFB volume button
Fx scale (longitudinal forces) - Unless you use really much of this, you will mainly notice this as an added "noise" on the FFB when you hit kerbs etc. Higher amounts of Fx will make the steering wheel counter steer automatically against the slide, but will also make the steering movement on normal cornering feel heavier.
Fy scale (lateral forces) - You feel this mainly as a force that acts against your steering movement. Very easy to use too much and over saturate the feel making the FFB feel dull.
Fz scale (vertical forces) - Easiest to notice as a force that turns the wheel in the direction of the turning. Kind of acts as a "counter force" against Fy, so sometimes when you have too much Fy, adding a bit more of Fz can make the wheel feel lighter again while turning (a risk of saturating the FFB signal though if you just keep adding these on top of each others to compensate).
Mz scale (twisting forces) - Allows you to feel "grip level". Loosing grip will untwist the tires rubber, so adjusting this as high as is possible without creating the "center step" will help you feel better what the car is doing.
•As a general note for all of the above (Mz, Fx, Fy, Fz), when you start to feel a distinctive FFB step/notch near the center of the wheel, you have too much of something there (or too much of all of them ). Or then you might have just a "dull feel" -> then start to go lower starting with Fy.
Simplified:
Fx: this is the FFB component representing the longitudinal force on the tyre contact patch. This should determine FFB when accelerating or braking
Fy: this is the FFB component representing the lateral force on the tyre contact patch. Very important for feeling mass transfer/inertia of the car when cornering.
Fz: this is the FFB component representing the vertical force on the tyre contact patch. This plays an important part in the 'road feel' of the FFB, i.e. when going over bumps in the road.
Mz: this is the FFB component representing the twisting force of the wheels, i.e. rotation along the vertical axis of the wheel. It is the self-aligning force of the wheels into the driving direction and is most important for getting the 'classic' feel of the FFB getting lighter when the front tyres lose grip
Try these settings for the Formula C in the garage FFB menu ensuring you have your bases set as outlined above
Master Scale 40
Fx Scale 60
Fx Smoothing 20
Fy Scale 40
Fy Smoothing 0
Fz Scale 70
Fz Smoothing 0
Mz Scale 80
Mz Smoothing 0
If that works nicely then I will find some for all the cars as these settings were done on PC and not sure how they will translate.
sc0tt said:
I would be happy to buy an xbone for this.
Still cant change the bloody buttons though.
Took me a while to find one I'd changed without realising it - best thing to do is reset to default and make a note of what buttons are assigned. There were a couple in the 3rd column of options I'd changed and they need assigning before it'll let you carry on.Still cant change the bloody buttons though.
Found that setting 3 for the pad is much much better...
Well, I'm currently on the fence with this one.
I was all excited when it was delivered to work yesterday.
Read all the setup tips on this thread so as soon as I got home put the xbox on and did the obligatory update.
installed the game then went to do the controller update.
He is where things went wrong.
The update failed and it wrote off my controller. Would not turn on no matter what I tried. Lots of talking with Microsoft support who insisted its not their problem that their software update knackered my until then perfectly working controller.
Anyway it decided to spring back into life about 5 hours later so I have taken advantage of the weekend and been up all night playing it!
I have not updated the controller or made any other adjustments settings wise except for changing which buttons are gear changes.
I have it on pro with all assists off, auto clutch though and the AI at 70% (had to drop it to 60% for the karts)
Though I would start with a safe option of the Evo which was quite fun, then went to kiddy Ginetta which was also nice so upgraded to the medium Ginetta which was also OK I was doing practice races at Donnington.
I was pretty happy with it all, sure the handling is a bit different to Forza, the cars seem to have a bit more weight to them yet seem a bit more floaty so its harder to feel where the grip is.
Reminds me of the old TOCA games where you either gripped or spun.
So in a good mood I thought I would start my Career, and here is where it all went downhill.
The shifter karts are utter garbage. Started off at 70% difficulty and managed to win the first few races but then had to turn it down to 60% because I was getting pissed off how many times I was having to restart races due to the bloody AI taking me out.
My kart seems to be so quick off the line that I have to wait a sec after the green light before i go or I just drive over the back of whoever is infront. Kart then seems to have a higher top speed than the AI and I can take massive chunks out of them on the brakes but I cant hold anywhere near the speed they do on some corners.
Found the best way to get them to turn in was to be hard on the brakes and downshifting as much as possible.
I will have to look for a setup by someone that makes them consistent to drive.
Since they were so bad I decided to grind through those championships.
Then I got offered a race in the baby Caterham and the darn thing drives like it is running Donuts instead of tyres, soo floaty and hard to keep pointing the right way which is the exact opposite of the real Caterhams I have been in.
So I got fed up and took the dog for a walk and now I'm here.
Do the setting changes you guys are suggesting make a big difference?
also a bit annoyed with a few glitchy bits.
Steering locking on the karts so crash
if you use the kerbs on the Dubai kart track then everything slows down then jumps back to normal speed.
the rolling starts are hopeless.they were starting me straight into walls or other drivers or
engine noise being cut when you hit a big kerb in a car.
Bit disappointed how drab everything looks too the tracks seem lifeless compared to Forza etc
I will get back on it soon and see what I can do about this caterham. failing that a 20 lap race in the baby ginetta will be fun
I was all excited when it was delivered to work yesterday.
Read all the setup tips on this thread so as soon as I got home put the xbox on and did the obligatory update.
installed the game then went to do the controller update.
He is where things went wrong.
The update failed and it wrote off my controller. Would not turn on no matter what I tried. Lots of talking with Microsoft support who insisted its not their problem that their software update knackered my until then perfectly working controller.
Anyway it decided to spring back into life about 5 hours later so I have taken advantage of the weekend and been up all night playing it!
I have not updated the controller or made any other adjustments settings wise except for changing which buttons are gear changes.
I have it on pro with all assists off, auto clutch though and the AI at 70% (had to drop it to 60% for the karts)
Though I would start with a safe option of the Evo which was quite fun, then went to kiddy Ginetta which was also nice so upgraded to the medium Ginetta which was also OK I was doing practice races at Donnington.
I was pretty happy with it all, sure the handling is a bit different to Forza, the cars seem to have a bit more weight to them yet seem a bit more floaty so its harder to feel where the grip is.
Reminds me of the old TOCA games where you either gripped or spun.
So in a good mood I thought I would start my Career, and here is where it all went downhill.
The shifter karts are utter garbage. Started off at 70% difficulty and managed to win the first few races but then had to turn it down to 60% because I was getting pissed off how many times I was having to restart races due to the bloody AI taking me out.
My kart seems to be so quick off the line that I have to wait a sec after the green light before i go or I just drive over the back of whoever is infront. Kart then seems to have a higher top speed than the AI and I can take massive chunks out of them on the brakes but I cant hold anywhere near the speed they do on some corners.
Found the best way to get them to turn in was to be hard on the brakes and downshifting as much as possible.
I will have to look for a setup by someone that makes them consistent to drive.
Since they were so bad I decided to grind through those championships.
Then I got offered a race in the baby Caterham and the darn thing drives like it is running Donuts instead of tyres, soo floaty and hard to keep pointing the right way which is the exact opposite of the real Caterhams I have been in.
So I got fed up and took the dog for a walk and now I'm here.
Do the setting changes you guys are suggesting make a big difference?
also a bit annoyed with a few glitchy bits.
Steering locking on the karts so crash
if you use the kerbs on the Dubai kart track then everything slows down then jumps back to normal speed.
the rolling starts are hopeless.they were starting me straight into walls or other drivers or
engine noise being cut when you hit a big kerb in a car.
Bit disappointed how drab everything looks too the tracks seem lifeless compared to Forza etc
I will get back on it soon and see what I can do about this caterham. failing that a 20 lap race in the baby ginetta will be fun
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