Bought my first DSLR (1100d) - Couple questions
Discussion
DrDoofenshmirtz said:
Here is the 1200D deal. Just add everything to the cart, and the discount is applied at checkout.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/feature.html/ref=amb_li...
The only thing I would say about the deal is that the 75-300 isn't a great lens, you also say 70-300 too though, so I'd check which one.http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/feature.html/ref=amb_li...
Personally I would have the efs 55-250 over it.
nellyleelephant said:
DrDoofenshmirtz said:
Here is the 1200D deal. Just add everything to the cart, and the discount is applied at checkout.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/feature.html/ref=amb_li...
The only thing I would say about the deal is that the 75-300 isn't a great lens, you also say 70-300 too though, so I'd check which one.http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/feature.html/ref=amb_li...
Personally I would have the efs 55-250 over it.
Reading the reviews, the lack of IS doesn't seem to be a huge issue. It's the only lens in the deal though.
Camera arrived today, am having good fun trying to get to grips with it this evening. Already starting to learn a couple things, there really is a lot to learn! Coming from a generation brought up with Camera phones, I really have no idea about all this camera tech.
So I have been playing about and have:
- Slightly understood what ISO settings are.
- Played with the Light settings to adjust the exposure. Took the same picture from -2 up to +2 to really see how it affects.
- Trying not to use Auto mode, however switch back to it every so often, to see what settings it recommends in certain lights.
One thing I have always liked is images of a subject close up, with a blurred background. So I set up a simple picture (with text in the background so I could easily see the "blur" and went through the modes. Settled on Av, and then started playing around with the (F stop is it?) and the little focus bits (so chose where I wanted to focus etc.)
Anyway I ended up with blur in the background, so I was absolutely chuffed. Whilst its a very basic photo with a real basic effect, I felt like a professional photographer!!!
I also purchased a Toshiba Flashair SD card which I have to say is very good. I have the app on my iPad, so once I have taken a couple shots I just look over and review the shots on the iPad with my Camera still in position.
One thing I need to purchase is a decent little case. I have a case with the camera but its only really suited to a 18-55mm lens and is a bit tight with the 18-135. Any recommendations? I want a compact case which will hold the camera, spare battery, spare SD card and that's about it. Not one of these big back pack jobs.
Looking at these cheap jobs, what do you think?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-SLR-Camera-Shoul...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAMERA-CASE-BAG-CANON-EO...
So I have been playing about and have:
- Slightly understood what ISO settings are.
- Played with the Light settings to adjust the exposure. Took the same picture from -2 up to +2 to really see how it affects.
- Trying not to use Auto mode, however switch back to it every so often, to see what settings it recommends in certain lights.
One thing I have always liked is images of a subject close up, with a blurred background. So I set up a simple picture (with text in the background so I could easily see the "blur" and went through the modes. Settled on Av, and then started playing around with the (F stop is it?) and the little focus bits (so chose where I wanted to focus etc.)
Anyway I ended up with blur in the background, so I was absolutely chuffed. Whilst its a very basic photo with a real basic effect, I felt like a professional photographer!!!
I also purchased a Toshiba Flashair SD card which I have to say is very good. I have the app on my iPad, so once I have taken a couple shots I just look over and review the shots on the iPad with my Camera still in position.
One thing I need to purchase is a decent little case. I have a case with the camera but its only really suited to a 18-55mm lens and is a bit tight with the 18-135. Any recommendations? I want a compact case which will hold the camera, spare battery, spare SD card and that's about it. Not one of these big back pack jobs.
Looking at these cheap jobs, what do you think?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-SLR-Camera-Shoul...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAMERA-CASE-BAG-CANON-EO...
Turn7 said:
Try to get your head around the ISO/Aperture/Shutter speed triangle -will be a huge help.
Will try my best. Ordered a book for some bedtime reading, but will try and use it as much as I can. Plus when my dad is back from his travels he can push me in the right direction as hes pretty fly on his Nikon. Thanks.
Its pretty simple.
They all control how much light the camera eats.
And everything is measured in stops, or parts of - a stop is twice as much, or half as much. So ISO 400 gives you twice as much light as ISO 200, which is twice as much as ISO 100.
Shutter speed - affects motion and camera shake. Sometimes you want to freeze action so need a fast shutter speed ( 1/500th) sometimes you want to blur things so need a slow one (1-2 seconds or 1/20th for panning etc)
Aperture - the big hole in the lens that lets light in - this affects how much of your pic is sharp and in focus, small numbers mean big holes. f1.8 is a big hole, lots of light, shallow plane of focus, f8 to f11 is typical landscape territory.
ISO - is basic digital/analog amplification on the sensor. Just like your stereo, turn it up it gets noisy, so always best to keep it low (ISO 100) if you can but NOT at the expense of motion blur through camera shake or movement. We can fix noise later in software much easier than we fix blur!
Typically most of us work in a semi auto mode, often aperture priority because thats what we want to control, we let the camera meter (decide on the right exposure - using shutter speed and often ISO- auto), but we give the camera a nudge in the direction we want the exposure to go with 'exposure compensation' Usually +1 or +2 for things we know are brighter (snow scenes) or -1 -2 for things we know are darker (bar scenes etc).
They all control how much light the camera eats.
And everything is measured in stops, or parts of - a stop is twice as much, or half as much. So ISO 400 gives you twice as much light as ISO 200, which is twice as much as ISO 100.
Shutter speed - affects motion and camera shake. Sometimes you want to freeze action so need a fast shutter speed ( 1/500th) sometimes you want to blur things so need a slow one (1-2 seconds or 1/20th for panning etc)
Aperture - the big hole in the lens that lets light in - this affects how much of your pic is sharp and in focus, small numbers mean big holes. f1.8 is a big hole, lots of light, shallow plane of focus, f8 to f11 is typical landscape territory.
ISO - is basic digital/analog amplification on the sensor. Just like your stereo, turn it up it gets noisy, so always best to keep it low (ISO 100) if you can but NOT at the expense of motion blur through camera shake or movement. We can fix noise later in software much easier than we fix blur!
Typically most of us work in a semi auto mode, often aperture priority because thats what we want to control, we let the camera meter (decide on the right exposure - using shutter speed and often ISO- auto), but we give the camera a nudge in the direction we want the exposure to go with 'exposure compensation' Usually +1 or +2 for things we know are brighter (snow scenes) or -1 -2 for things we know are darker (bar scenes etc).
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