Help choosing a lens
Discussion
I appreciate you say that this is a random shot, and if it's just a test shot ignore the rest of this reply...
...think about composition, what it is that you are trying to capture and is it a picture you will cherish and look at again in the future. Think about a less distracting background, perhaps put her on your sofa with her bear, personally I would take off the bibs (the bear's as well). The focus is then on your daughter and her toy, not the playhouse, half a window and a curtain. Alternatively, sit her far enough away from a background and use a larger aperture (lower F number) around F3.5 to F4 or lower if you can cope with the very limited DoF to blur out the background - then your daughter will stand out and be the focal point of the image (as she should be).
The image looks a tad under-exposed (?) or perhaps you don't have the White Balance on the right setting- is it on 'Flash' or something else? The is only a minor point the image looks sharp and the colours look ok too. Take some time with the composition, and see how you get on.
Good luck! Your family will appreciate having some great shots, I'm sure.
...think about composition, what it is that you are trying to capture and is it a picture you will cherish and look at again in the future. Think about a less distracting background, perhaps put her on your sofa with her bear, personally I would take off the bibs (the bear's as well). The focus is then on your daughter and her toy, not the playhouse, half a window and a curtain. Alternatively, sit her far enough away from a background and use a larger aperture (lower F number) around F3.5 to F4 or lower if you can cope with the very limited DoF to blur out the background - then your daughter will stand out and be the focal point of the image (as she should be).
The image looks a tad under-exposed (?) or perhaps you don't have the White Balance on the right setting- is it on 'Flash' or something else? The is only a minor point the image looks sharp and the colours look ok too. Take some time with the composition, and see how you get on.
Good luck! Your family will appreciate having some great shots, I'm sure.
Quite easy to bash into shape using Photoshop.
1) Sort the exposure out with levels and curves
2) Rotate until the verticals are vertical
3) Crop to lose clutter and focus attention on subjects
4) A bit of manual colour adjustment - the original was a bit warm
(personally I think the lighting is too diffuse, which is why the subject looks flat)
1) Sort the exposure out with levels and curves
2) Rotate until the verticals are vertical
3) Crop to lose clutter and focus attention on subjects
4) A bit of manual colour adjustment - the original was a bit warm
(personally I think the lighting is too diffuse, which is why the subject looks flat)
Morning all
Yeah ignore the background and the general content of the photo - I was just playing with the camera trying to get the light levels correct etc
The flash was at 8 I think so still good bit more available
The F stop is one of my issues with my current lens - will be able to go a lot lower when I get my new lens - hopefully next month
Yeah ignore the background and the general content of the photo - I was just playing with the camera trying to get the light levels correct etc
The flash was at 8 I think so still good bit more available
The F stop is one of my issues with my current lens - will be able to go a lot lower when I get my new lens - hopefully next month
Simpo Two said:
Quite easy to bash into shape using Photoshop.
1) Sort the exposure out with levels and curves
2) Rotate until the verticals are vertical
3) Crop to lose clutter and focus attention on subjects
4) A bit of manual colour adjustment - the original was a bit warm
(personally I think the lighting is too diffuse, which is why the subject looks flat)
Thanks for this - although I'm not planning to get into photoshop just yet 1) Sort the exposure out with levels and curves
2) Rotate until the verticals are vertical
3) Crop to lose clutter and focus attention on subjects
4) A bit of manual colour adjustment - the original was a bit warm
(personally I think the lighting is too diffuse, which is why the subject looks flat)
When you say the light is too diffuse - what does this mean?
I had the flash pointed vertically upwards with the white reflector card up if that helps
rottie102 said:
...like that bit of window sill on the left that my eyes are immediately drawn to? 
Yeah well the clone tool is in the paid-for service 325Ti said:
Thanks for this - although I'm not planning to get into photoshop just yet
When you say the light is too diffuse - what does this mean?
I had the flash pointed vertically upwards with the white reflector card up if that helps
Lighting is a personal taste thing, but I usually use the head tilted forwards a bit. By firing it straight up, although you have the card out, most of the power hits the ceiling and sprays out 360 degrees. Correcting the exposure may have made it a bit 'muddier' too as the shadows are dragged kicking and screaming into visibility.When you say the light is too diffuse - what does this mean?
I had the flash pointed vertically upwards with the white reflector card up if that helps
If there was a light wall to the left, it might have been an option to turn the flash head to the left and illuminate the subject that way for an alternative look.
I usppose the point is that many photos, whilst not looking like winners to start with, can be greatly improved with a bit of twiddling and thus fall into the 'acceptable' bin. The thing that saves the shot for me is the bear, so well done for turning him round to look at her.
You will need to learn a bit of something like PS to progress, but I agree you have more basic fish to fry at present
Edited by Simpo Two on Wednesday 15th October 10:06
325Ti said:
The F stop is one of my issues with my current lens - will be able to go a lot lower when I get my new lens - hopefully next month
Lack of a wide aperture is only a problem if there isn't enough light. Turn the flash up and it'll be fine.Also bear in mind that since you are using a manual flash; the aperture controls the amount of light from the flash, the shutter speed controls the ambient light (and won't affect the flash brightness).
Try to select a moderate aperture a couple of stops down from the lenses maximum (~f8 on your lens, ~f4 on a fast prime). Set the flash power via a few trial shots until you are happy and then you can leave it alone. If you notice your shots are a little dark, open the aperture slightly. If you notice they are too bright then close it down again - no need to keep fiddling with the flash every couple of shots!
The lighting looks okay, you are getting there. Its a little underexposed, and a little flat.
Assuming you have a white wall to bounce off of, I would point the flash at about 45 degrees left and behind you slightly ( I generally try to light from the eye side of the head ) and turn power up from 1/8th to 1/2. This will give you a stronger shading on shadow areas.
This is a good guide on portrait lighting showing the effect different angles of light have on the face.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmmZECtP3oM&fe...
Key is to keep experimenting until its right. As you are using a flash now, and its a static room, once you have the setting locked down for that room, you can just dial it in straight away and start shooting.
To check if you are getting the right exposure, you can use the on camera histogram and highlight warnings.
Open up the camera's menu.
Go to Playback menu.
Go to Display mode
Go to Detailed Photo Info.
Check the tick boxes on Highlights, RGB histogram, and Data.
Ok done.
Now when you are looking at a picture on the camera, you press up on the joypad to scroll through these detailed views of the photo.
Highlight mode will show you areas that are too bright by flashing on and off in white.
RGB histogram will show you the exposure of all the colours.
This is a good guide on how to read the histogram.
http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-read-...
One final bit of advice is to get into Photoshop.
You can make a bigger difference in photoshop than you can with 4000 pounds worth of camera gear.
Its a bit intimidating at first, but once you get the hang you will never look back.
Assuming you have a white wall to bounce off of, I would point the flash at about 45 degrees left and behind you slightly ( I generally try to light from the eye side of the head ) and turn power up from 1/8th to 1/2. This will give you a stronger shading on shadow areas.
This is a good guide on portrait lighting showing the effect different angles of light have on the face.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmmZECtP3oM&fe...
Key is to keep experimenting until its right. As you are using a flash now, and its a static room, once you have the setting locked down for that room, you can just dial it in straight away and start shooting.
To check if you are getting the right exposure, you can use the on camera histogram and highlight warnings.
Open up the camera's menu.
Go to Playback menu.
Go to Display mode
Go to Detailed Photo Info.
Check the tick boxes on Highlights, RGB histogram, and Data.
Ok done.
Now when you are looking at a picture on the camera, you press up on the joypad to scroll through these detailed views of the photo.
Highlight mode will show you areas that are too bright by flashing on and off in white.
RGB histogram will show you the exposure of all the colours.
This is a good guide on how to read the histogram.
http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-read-...
One final bit of advice is to get into Photoshop.
You can make a bigger difference in photoshop than you can with 4000 pounds worth of camera gear.
Its a bit intimidating at first, but once you get the hang you will never look back.
Mr Will said:
Lack of a wide aperture is only a problem if there isn't enough light. Turn the flash up and it'll be fine.
It may not be a problem as such, but this also affects the depth of field, i.e. if you want a blurred background you won't get this at F8 or above (in this setting). I'm sure this isn't news to you, though.Get one of those if you are planning on taking many photos of people using flash, people sell them cheaply second hand and it really works wonders. I had one for few years and continue to praise it:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RayFlash-RAC175-/2814654...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RayFlash-RAC175-/2814654...
325Ti said:
When you say the light is too diffuse - what does this mean?
That you illuminated the whole scene and not highlighted the subject that we're supposed to be looking at. TBH though, til you get the flash off camera that'll keep happening. It could have been good to see the light coming in from the left of the frame, which would create more shadows and definition. How harsh those shadows are depends on the size of your lightsource and how you modify or diffuse it
Want to make the kid all scary like the terrors they are? Get the flash off the camera and stick it in the playhouse pointed at the back, use it as a highlighter, trigger it remotely and you'll get a very different photo. Same scene, different look and feel
andy-xr said:
325Ti said:
When you say the light is too diffuse - what does this mean?
That you illuminated the whole scene and not highlighted the subject that we're supposed to be looking at.
yes I can, the highlighted areas show up fairly well.
Now, how to light a face.....when you look at faces, generally you see people with light coming from above, whether that's a room light or the sun. You'll see this from the shadows under eyes, noses and chins. In soft light, these arent as distinguished, in harsh sunlight, they're more obvious and contrasting.
Sometimes, especially on Halloween, faces can be lit from below, making it scary, it enhances features that normally we're not used to seeing in a regular light.
So the lighting around it, normally the main light will come from above with an accent light towards something in particular.
In this instance, take the last photo - you're highlighting hair and side of face.
For the next trick, do you think you can balance light? Drop the exposure of the room lighting by a stop. So if you werent using flash, it'd be underexposed just a bit. Then add the flash in, from above and left, focused on the child and see what that looks like.
Now, how to light a face.....when you look at faces, generally you see people with light coming from above, whether that's a room light or the sun. You'll see this from the shadows under eyes, noses and chins. In soft light, these arent as distinguished, in harsh sunlight, they're more obvious and contrasting.
Sometimes, especially on Halloween, faces can be lit from below, making it scary, it enhances features that normally we're not used to seeing in a regular light.
So the lighting around it, normally the main light will come from above with an accent light towards something in particular.
In this instance, take the last photo - you're highlighting hair and side of face.
For the next trick, do you think you can balance light? Drop the exposure of the room lighting by a stop. So if you werent using flash, it'd be underexposed just a bit. Then add the flash in, from above and left, focused on the child and see what that looks like.
andy-xr said:
For the next trick, do you think you can balance light? Drop the exposure of the room lighting by a stop. So if you werent using flash, it'd be underexposed just a bit. Then add the flash in, from above and left, focused on the child and see what that looks like.
That's what I would do in all of those photos. You don't need all the distraction behind the child, you want all the attention to be on her. It's very easy to do it with flash, I took this photo yesterday:
during the day in the garden.
But as the others said - DO NOT BE AFRAID OF POST PROCESSING YOUR PHOTOS. It will make them much better than any new lens!
Lynchie999 said:
OP - not quite sure why you have gone down the flash route! a bit too complicated for your needs IMO... I would just grab a 50/1.8 use it wide open at 1.8 and move around, get different interesting angles and see what you get!
I think it depends on where you're headed, *anything light* which is where you just have whatever the ambient is doing at the time and that's it, is OK for most stuff, but if you want to focus attention and shape the light, dark and general exposure sometimes you need to step in and add more, or less. That can be flash, it could also be a lamp, car headlights, an LED torch....loads of options
rottie102 said:
andy-xr said:
For the next trick, do you think you can balance light? Drop the exposure of the room lighting by a stop. So if you werent using flash, it'd be underexposed just a bit. Then add the flash in, from above and left, focused on the child and see what that looks like.
That's what I would do in all of those photos. You don't need all the distraction behind the child, you want all the attention to be on her. It's very easy to do it with flash, I took this photo yesterday:
during the day in the garden.
But as the others said - DO NOT BE AFRAID OF POST PROCESSING YOUR PHOTOS. It will make them much better than any new lens!
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