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Keep the ISO as low as possible (depending on your camera) and use settings that are not far off what you would use in daylight.
You will probably be focused at Infinity (minus a tad depending on how your lens works). I you have Image Stabilistion of some sort you could shoot hand held. Otherwise turn it off and use a good tripod and shutter delay or a remote shutter device.
A long lens is handy of course. 400mm or more if you have one. Add to that whatever crop factor your body offers.
You don't nee a lot of DoF, To up the shutter speed go as wide as your lens is comfortable at. Probably no more than f8. Less if possible.
You will probably be focused at Infinity (minus a tad depending on how your lens works). I you have Image Stabilistion of some sort you could shoot hand held. Otherwise turn it off and use a good tripod and shutter delay or a remote shutter device.
A long lens is handy of course. 400mm or more if you have one. Add to that whatever crop factor your body offers.
You don't nee a lot of DoF, To up the shutter speed go as wide as your lens is comfortable at. Probably no more than f8. Less if possible.
I didn't see anything that looked like a moon last night. Probably hiding behind the local light pollution.
Here's one from a few weeks back. An evening track event so I was geared up to try to get some fairly blurred panning shots of dark cars in low and fading light. The blurring proved all too easy when they were doing around 100+ on a variable trajectory, etc., etc.
Anyway
ISO 400 for the low light.
Wide open at a reported f5.6 but as I was using a f2.8 lens and a 2x extender to get to 400mm I'm slightly dubious that was accurate.
1/160th for the shutter, Tv mode. Fixed ISO.
So aperture was the variable. Spotting the moon in between passing subjects I blasted off a few images without giving them much thought.
Aperture went to f18.
Dropping ISO would have been a good idea - it would have helped the lens to a better f-stop and having cropped in a lot the ISO 400 noise (10 year old camera design) required some remediation.
ISO 100 and/or faster shutter would have been a better choice.
IMO.
I have tweaked the curves a tad for the moon area to accentuate shade differences but nothing dramatic.
Here's one from a few weeks back. An evening track event so I was geared up to try to get some fairly blurred panning shots of dark cars in low and fading light. The blurring proved all too easy when they were doing around 100+ on a variable trajectory, etc., etc.
Anyway
ISO 400 for the low light.
Wide open at a reported f5.6 but as I was using a f2.8 lens and a 2x extender to get to 400mm I'm slightly dubious that was accurate.
1/160th for the shutter, Tv mode. Fixed ISO.
So aperture was the variable. Spotting the moon in between passing subjects I blasted off a few images without giving them much thought.
Aperture went to f18.
Dropping ISO would have been a good idea - it would have helped the lens to a better f-stop and having cropped in a lot the ISO 400 noise (10 year old camera design) required some remediation.
ISO 100 and/or faster shutter would have been a better choice.
IMO.
I have tweaked the curves a tad for the moon area to accentuate shade differences but nothing dramatic.
DibblyDobbler said:
Sigma 10-20 is decent and cheap - TP is a good place to buy if you have enough posts
I've got a Sigma 10-20 - very happy with it. In other news - impending birth of child means I need a flash. Or some other excuse to buy one.
Nikon SB600 for £100 pre owned seems like a good buy?
Sell your cameras folks and get one of these instead!
https://www.luxhd450.com/int/uk/ss1/index.php?AFID...
'DSLR-quality pictures' for $29!!
https://www.luxhd450.com/int/uk/ss1/index.php?AFID...
'DSLR-quality pictures' for $29!!
DibblyDobbler said:
Sell your cameras folks and get one of these instead!
https://www.luxhd450.com/int/uk/ss1/index.php?AFID...
'DSLR-quality pictures' for $29!!
Ha ha . I wonder how many read that and order one ? https://www.luxhd450.com/int/uk/ss1/index.php?AFID...
'DSLR-quality pictures' for $29!!
RobDickinson said:
Aha I dont think so...
In other news I am now an official Lee filter ambassador. not quite sure what that entails just yet apart from a box of freebies lol
Freebies are always good ! Congratulations.In other news I am now an official Lee filter ambassador. not quite sure what that entails just yet apart from a box of freebies lol
I wanted the SW150 kit for my Tammy but already got a whole whack of 100mm kit so can't justify it, bloody expensive so they are !
fking hell, just wet my pants.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzMLA8YIgG0
Microsoft surface studio, who needs a kidney?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzMLA8YIgG0
Microsoft surface studio, who needs a kidney?
Thought I would wake this one up as I need some advice
Currently have Fuji XT20 + 80mm + 10-24 + 15-45 + 18-135
Have been finding the XT20 a bit fiddly to hold - too small really - and potential options are: buy an XT2, wait for the XT3 or... chop the whole lot in and switch to Sony! Had a go on the A7ii today in a shop and it felt very nice to hold and really no bigger than the Fuji XT2 which surprised me. Lens wise I would be looking at the 90mm macro + 16-35 f4.
I could swap the whole lot via MBP and it would be 'broadly' cost neutral ( ) but would it be a good idea... any thoughts appreciated!
Currently have Fuji XT20 + 80mm + 10-24 + 15-45 + 18-135
Have been finding the XT20 a bit fiddly to hold - too small really - and potential options are: buy an XT2, wait for the XT3 or... chop the whole lot in and switch to Sony! Had a go on the A7ii today in a shop and it felt very nice to hold and really no bigger than the Fuji XT2 which surprised me. Lens wise I would be looking at the 90mm macro + 16-35 f4.
I could swap the whole lot via MBP and it would be 'broadly' cost neutral ( ) but would it be a good idea... any thoughts appreciated!
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