Lens progression advice, please
Discussion
RobDickinson said:
Nice, we usually only need the basic exif
1/1000th f6.3 iso 9000.
The results look good, but the bird is static so you likely could have got the same shot at 1/250th ?
f6.3 is near wide open ( thought the nikor was f5.6?) that wont make much difference.
Sometimes with cameras whole ISO stops work better, ( 1600,3200,6400, 12800) so that might have been better at 6400 and pushed a little in post (which is what the camera is likely doing internally anyhow).
Apart from possibly getting away with a slower shutter speed though thats fine, and the results look good. Sometimes you have to embrace the noise
LOL, encyclopaedic version of Exif now deleted 1/1000th f6.3 iso 9000.
The results look good, but the bird is static so you likely could have got the same shot at 1/250th ?
f6.3 is near wide open ( thought the nikor was f5.6?) that wont make much difference.
Sometimes with cameras whole ISO stops work better, ( 1600,3200,6400, 12800) so that might have been better at 6400 and pushed a little in post (which is what the camera is likely doing internally anyhow).
Apart from possibly getting away with a slower shutter speed though thats fine, and the results look good. Sometimes you have to embrace the noise
Yeah, the newest version of this lens, the AF-P, is now f4.6 - 6.3 - why, I`m not sure, so the lens was wide open when I shot it.
I will bear in mind though re the whole ISO stops...
Like you say, a slower shutter-speed would have been much better, but I was always conscious of him moving off just as I hit the shutter. I do know compromises have to be made though, but again, you`ve really made me think about relying too much on the exposure meter now, or auto-ISO, which can only be a good thing.
Maybe need to rely more on the what the histogram is telling me - and my eyes LOL; we`ll see.
Turning in now bud, work beckons as always.
Many thanks again Rob, much appreciated.
Gad-Westy said:
Some great advice here from the chaps as usual. Just to clear up any confusion (I know Rob is a Canon man and may be bewildered by the murky world of Nikon lenses), the lens linked to earlier, the Nikon 70-300 VR f/4.5-f5.6 is a few years old and is a full frame lens, and very nice it is too.
The lens you have bought nomad63, is the brand spanking new 70-300 AF-P DX lens as you say. It's not a new version of the above as such as it is a DX lens but from what I gather it is very good and probably a lot lighter than the FX version too. Sounds like it's working out nicely.
Cheers bud; cleared that up very nicely for me thanks, and yes, the lens is brilliant - can`t wait to get out with it again now !The lens you have bought nomad63, is the brand spanking new 70-300 AF-P DX lens as you say. It's not a new version of the above as such as it is a DX lens but from what I gather it is very good and probably a lot lighter than the FX version too. Sounds like it's working out nicely.
Edited by Gad-Westy on Friday 20th January 16:19
Simpo Two said:
The logical error nomad63 made was to think 'Birds move very quickly therefore I need a high shutter speed' - whereas I think you'll find that whilst they make sudden fast jerky movements, in-between those they are fairly still. So the main factor in the shutter speed is the focal length of the lens, and our old friend the reciprocal rule (plus a bit for a crop sensor). In this respect VR can help significantly.
Actually I said this on page 1, just after I suggested the 70-300VR
Yeah, absolutely Simpo - you did mention this at the start, and you`re quite right. My main reason for setting s/speed that high was in case they move off, but when thinking about it logically, they move off so quickly (especially the small ones) when they go, you`ve a job to keep up with them anyway !Actually I said this on page 1, just after I suggested the 70-300VR
Probably better just to concentrate on getting a good, quality shot when they aren`t moving, rather than to try and cover every scenario !
Again, good food for thought this one Simpo, and sometimes it just needs somebody to offer a different view-point to make you re-think something again...
I`m also aware of the focal length + crop factor, so I`ll be sticking to that one for when they`re stationary, which will no-doubt make the ISO tumble !
Thanks again mate; really appreciate all the advice.
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