Movement - Latest Results
Discussion
Ok, just to bring (bore) you up to date. Got the 300D this morning, and went for a drive in the afternoon. Shots might look familiar as they are the A3 south bound.
The shots were all at 1/15th and 1/20th. Roads on the lanes of Surrey didn't come out - the combination of slow shutter speed and VXT suspension really didnt work.
One of my first issues - this is the first proper didgital camera I've used is the issue with the ISO. I'd never actually considered that ISO on a digital camera makes the cell more or less sensitive.
As such, the first 30 shots came out over exposed - including all these ones.
However, I've kinda altered them statically on my machine by pushing the contrast a bit (alot). The images are not meant to be the subject of a website so the accuracy isn't too important.
I'm really looking for movement effect and I think I've captured it a bit. Not bad in my efforts for the first few frames on my first DSLR.
Improvements could be made by using a wider angle lense. This was done with an old 28mm f2.8 EF lense we had stored.
The shots were all at 1/15th and 1/20th. Roads on the lanes of Surrey didn't come out - the combination of slow shutter speed and VXT suspension really didnt work.
One of my first issues - this is the first proper didgital camera I've used is the issue with the ISO. I'd never actually considered that ISO on a digital camera makes the cell more or less sensitive.
As such, the first 30 shots came out over exposed - including all these ones.
However, I've kinda altered them statically on my machine by pushing the contrast a bit (alot). The images are not meant to be the subject of a website so the accuracy isn't too important.
I'm really looking for movement effect and I think I've captured it a bit. Not bad in my efforts for the first few frames on my first DSLR.
Improvements could be made by using a wider angle lense. This was done with an old 28mm f2.8 EF lense we had stored.
tinman0 said:
One of my first issues - this is the first proper didgital camera I've used is the issue with the ISO. I'd never actually considered that ISO on a digital camera makes the cell more or less sensitive.
Don't get the ISO obsession. Just set it as low as will give you an acceptable shutter speed (I use 400 to counter the smaller apertures of AF lenses), then leave it alone. Exposure, which is what you're after, is more correctly done by getting the combination of shutter speed and aperture correct. Sounds like you had it on Manual exposure; really, there's no need. Start on Program; then, when you want to get more creative, move onto A and S (which I believe is called Tv in Canaon-speak?)
simpo two said:
One of my first issues - this is the first proper didgital camera I've used is the issue with the ISO. I'd never actually considered that ISO on a digital camera makes the cell more or less sensitive.
Don't get the ISO obsession. Just set it as low as will give you an acceptable shutter speed (I use 400 to counter the smaller apertures of AF lenses), then leave it alone. Exposure, which is what you're after, is more correctly done by getting the combination of shutter speed and aperture correct. Sounds like you had it on Manual exposure; really, there's no need. Start on Program; then, when you want to get more creative, move onto A and S (which I believe is called Tv in Canaon-speak?)
I started on Shutter Priority (Tv), its the only way to ensure you get the blurring otherwise the camera overrules you. What I got wrong was the exposure as at 1/15 which meant the camera was trying to set something in excess of f22, which it failed miserably for obvious mechanical limitations.
So after a quick think whilst we were doing some unmentionable speed, i came back to resetting the ISO - which the previous owner had left on 800. Setting it down to ISO100 then allowed the camera to use f22 or f16 to get the exposure correct.
Having said all that, the original over exposed pictures still gave me something i could work with. By using the contrast features on my machine at home I could create a far more stylised image, slightly more dynamic.
tinman0 said:
I started on Shutter Priority (Tv), its the only way to ensure you get the blurring otherwise the camera overrules you. What I got wrong was the exposure as at 1/15 which meant the camera was trying to set something in excess of f22, which it failed miserably for obvious mechanical limitations.
Aha, yes. Seems like you have the measure of the beast
Another way to reduce light, if all else fails, is a neutral density filter - eg for getting a running water effect on a sunny day.simpo two said:
I started on Shutter Priority (Tv), its the only way to ensure you get the blurring otherwise the camera overrules you. What I got wrong was the exposure as at 1/15 which meant the camera was trying to set something in excess of f22, which it failed miserably for obvious mechanical limitations.
Aha, yes. Seems like you have the measure of the beast
options were limited in a VX headbutting the A3 at many kleptons per parsec
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