Macro Photo thread
Discussion
DibblyDobbler said:
Dan_1981 said:
Is .there a recommended Nikon fit lens for entry level access to the macro world?
Dan - I'm a Canon man so can't be specific but a 50mm prime is generally regarded as the entry level, next step up 100mm etc etc 
My 35mm ain't gonna cut the mustard then.
Dan_1981 said:
Is there a recommended Nikon fit lens for entry level access to the macro world?
I use a $10 reverse adaptor with a 50mm f1.8 prime, you don't get much more entry level than that! Works well if you can get close and are happy with full manual control. Focusing is mostly a case of moving the camera.Nikon make a range of macro primes (anything with micro-nikkor in the name) and so do Tamron, Sigma etc - a second-hand one is probably the cheapest dedicated macro lens you will find.
When considering Macro lenses, for Nature macro work, working distance is probably the most important factor to avoid spooking the subject, which is why the longer lenses exist. However at 100mm + it becomes hard to handhold which makes VR a great advantage. However many bugs don't "spook" so its not be all and end all....
The Modern Nikkor Range goes like this.......all are distortion free, low levels of chromatic abberation and very sharp. Its worth noting that the lens speeds ( 2.8 etc ) I quote below become slower at higher magnification levels, the modern lenses will report a larger aperture as you approach 1:1
All Modern G type lenses have no aperture ring - so if you want to use them with cheap extention tubes to go past 1:1 you must jam the aperture wide open with a bit of plastic, which is not ideal. You can buy extention tubes which retain autofocus, aperture and metering, but the cost goes up. Extention tubes will also reduce the working range dramatically.
40mm - DX entry level, only goes to 1:2 but has autofocus and exposure control on all modern Nikons.
60mm - Next one up, does 1:1, fast at 2.8 great lens. Short working distance. Expensive as it is a full frame lens.
85mm - This has VR, it is the dedicated DX Macro lens, and it is very good. Combines handholdability with a good working distance and modern features. You would almost certainly get the best results out of the box with this lens. I have seen it for 300 pounds at London Camera Exchange which would be a good option as you would get a warranty.
105mm - The full frame Macro lens has VR and is fast at 2.8. Great working distance, great lens, huge price.
The 200mm ED IF AF is still in production. This only Autofocuses on Nikon with an body focus motor. No VR. This is for serious nature Macro where a long working distance is required. Its very, very hard to hand hold so tripod is usually required.
The best Modern third party lens that autofocuses on all Nikons is the Tamron 90mm 272EN II. There is an earlier version without the internal focus motor. No VR but a fast lens at 2.8. The one criticism is that Cromatic aberration ( color fringing ) is quite pronounced, but is just as sharp if not sharper than the Nikkors.
However...Macro work is usually best in full manual mode. So the old school Nikkons are still perfectly viable. And as they are mechanical they are very safe to buy second hand from ebay as there is very little to go wrong. And they can be used with cheap extention tubes to go past 1:1
50mm 3.5 AIS - The original Micro Nikkor, nothing wrong with it, apart from only going to 1:2, which can be remedied with a 25mm tube.
55mm Micro-Nikkor AIS - still in production today faster than the 50 at 2.8. Only does 1:2 reproduction, can use tube.
105mm 2.8 AIS - This is the best AIS Macro lens and still sells for serious money today. 1:1, fast lens, full manual control.
200mm f4. This only goes to 1:2. It is designed to be used with the 301 teleconvertor to get to 1:1. It is (relatively) cheap as the optics are inferior to the 200mm AF IF ED and it is very hard to handhold.
The Modern Nikkor Range goes like this.......all are distortion free, low levels of chromatic abberation and very sharp. Its worth noting that the lens speeds ( 2.8 etc ) I quote below become slower at higher magnification levels, the modern lenses will report a larger aperture as you approach 1:1
All Modern G type lenses have no aperture ring - so if you want to use them with cheap extention tubes to go past 1:1 you must jam the aperture wide open with a bit of plastic, which is not ideal. You can buy extention tubes which retain autofocus, aperture and metering, but the cost goes up. Extention tubes will also reduce the working range dramatically.
40mm - DX entry level, only goes to 1:2 but has autofocus and exposure control on all modern Nikons.
60mm - Next one up, does 1:1, fast at 2.8 great lens. Short working distance. Expensive as it is a full frame lens.
85mm - This has VR, it is the dedicated DX Macro lens, and it is very good. Combines handholdability with a good working distance and modern features. You would almost certainly get the best results out of the box with this lens. I have seen it for 300 pounds at London Camera Exchange which would be a good option as you would get a warranty.
105mm - The full frame Macro lens has VR and is fast at 2.8. Great working distance, great lens, huge price.
The 200mm ED IF AF is still in production. This only Autofocuses on Nikon with an body focus motor. No VR. This is for serious nature Macro where a long working distance is required. Its very, very hard to hand hold so tripod is usually required.
The best Modern third party lens that autofocuses on all Nikons is the Tamron 90mm 272EN II. There is an earlier version without the internal focus motor. No VR but a fast lens at 2.8. The one criticism is that Cromatic aberration ( color fringing ) is quite pronounced, but is just as sharp if not sharper than the Nikkors.
However...Macro work is usually best in full manual mode. So the old school Nikkons are still perfectly viable. And as they are mechanical they are very safe to buy second hand from ebay as there is very little to go wrong. And they can be used with cheap extention tubes to go past 1:1
50mm 3.5 AIS - The original Micro Nikkor, nothing wrong with it, apart from only going to 1:2, which can be remedied with a 25mm tube.
55mm Micro-Nikkor AIS - still in production today faster than the 50 at 2.8. Only does 1:2 reproduction, can use tube.
105mm 2.8 AIS - This is the best AIS Macro lens and still sells for serious money today. 1:1, fast lens, full manual control.
200mm f4. This only goes to 1:2. It is designed to be used with the 301 teleconvertor to get to 1:1. It is (relatively) cheap as the optics are inferior to the 200mm AF IF ED and it is very hard to handhold.
The only real limitation of the 40mm is that you need to be 5cm away from the subject at 1:1. Optically it is the equal of the larger lenses ( in fact slightly sharper in some areas )
https://www.flickr.com/groups/nikon40mmaf-smicro/
https://www.flickr.com/groups/nikon40mmaf-smicro/
DibblyDobbler said:
ExPat2B said:
Lots of technical info...
Wow that's some impressive lens knowledge! Ps - is your name really Excalibur ?
Not my real name, I have a strict policy of keeping all forums, facebook and the real world totally separate.
A Bee-fly; focussed-stacked (Zerene Stacker) to get greater DoF.
Bee-fly (Bombylius major) par Ed Phillips 01, sur Flickr
[Couldn't get the BB Code with the "new" Flickr, except by changing language. That's why the photo title is in French!]
Bee-fly (Bombylius major) par Ed Phillips 01, sur Flickr
[Couldn't get the BB Code with the "new" Flickr, except by changing language. That's why the photo title is in French!]
GravelBen said:
ExPat2B said:
The only real limitation of the 40mm is that you need to be 5cm away from the subject at 1:1.
Thats similar to what I find with the reverse 50mm and can be a problem getting insects, do you know how close you have to be with the 60mm?I normally don't trust Ken Rockwell but he is a keen macro photographer and he does measure the working distance. I have tested a few lenses and he has always been accurate.
Nikon doesn't make it easy as they quote closest focus distance which is actually the distance from the mounting flange to the subject. You have subtract the length of the lens from that figure, and most macro lenses extend in 1:1 magnification mode.
Cheers, good to know. I'd probably be going for an older AF-D second hand anyway, bit of Scottish and Dutch blood! 
No rush anyway, the reverse 50mm is getting some decent results and a body upgrade is a higher priority as the old D80 is starting to feel a bit tired.
No rush anyway, the reverse 50mm is getting some decent results and a body upgrade is a higher priority as the old D80 is starting to feel a bit tired.
Edited by GravelBen on Sunday 6th April 12:54
Ed_P said:
A Bee-fly; focussed-stacked (Zerene Stacker) to get greater DoF.
Bee-fly (Bombylius major) par Ed Phillips 01, sur Flickr
[Couldn't get the BB Code with the "new" Flickr, except by changing language. That's why the photo title is in French!]
I don't know, but I guess when you say focus stacked you mean multiple images with slightly different focal points that the software then combines together?Bee-fly (Bombylius major) par Ed Phillips 01, sur Flickr
[Couldn't get the BB Code with the "new" Flickr, except by changing language. That's why the photo title is in French!]
How do you make sure you get enough shots of something with enough focal points to make a full 'in focus' image...especially of something alive?!
The Moose said:
I don't know, but I guess when you say focus stacked you mean multiple images with slightly different focal points that the software then combines together?
How do you make sure you get enough shots of something with enough focal points to make a full 'in focus' image...especially of something alive?!
Well, your first supposition is correct. That's exactly the technique. The second question is a little more difficult to answer fully, but I'll outline my technique. Firstly, choice of subject. It has to be something that isn't going to move during the process. Lots of focus-stacked images are of prepared (dead!) specimens in the studio. I do mine in "the field". Good time to find quiescent specimens is in the cool early(ish) morning or evening. I think that the bee-fly in the shot had just emerged from pupation and was "drying off". Insects usually stay still during this process. Knowing how many shots to take is just a matter of practice. I spend inordinate amounts of time doing this. I decided that for a bug this size and with my lens at about 1:1, I'd use F8. That would give a reasonable DoF. With the lens on manual focus (the MP-E doesn't offer auto-focus anyway), I steadied the camera and focussed on the tip of the proboscis and took shot 1. Then moved the camera forward fractionally (about third way up the proboscis) and took shot 2. Continued until I'd got past the head. I typically do 5-10 shots.How do you make sure you get enough shots of something with enough focal points to make a full 'in focus' image...especially of something alive?!
When possible, I use a beanbag to support the camera. With this bug, I also took a series at F11 as "insurance". The bug was still in the same place when I went back several hours later! To get good outcomes, the focus in all the shots need to "overlap". I can't give you any formula for ensuring this; just practice with something inanimate. Any slight rotation or other lateral camera movement during the stacking can be handled by the software which aligns everything before stacking the images. Hope that helps!
Gassing Station | Photography & Video | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff