Engine Mount Removal
Discussion
You're already a quarter of the way to getting them off. Good work mate.
Putting them on is a lot easier, you don't have the corrosion to contend with.
Oh, & a top tip - stick the new bottom nuts & washers together with a little superglue, it makes them so much easier to get them started on the engine mount studs. And the studs themselves can be shortened a little to save all that "one tiny click at a time" tightening performance.
HTH,
Glen
Putting them on is a lot easier, you don't have the corrosion to contend with.
Oh, & a top tip - stick the new bottom nuts & washers together with a little superglue, it makes them so much easier to get them started on the engine mount studs. And the studs themselves can be shortened a little to save all that "one tiny click at a time" tightening performance.
HTH,
Glen
RayTVR said:
Ne mounts arrived today from Rally design - It's not the thought of them that scares me - it's the idea of getting the exhaust off before I can start!
Ray,Exhaust is a doddle. It needs to come off before you do anything underneath.
After that............
You cannot possibly envisage the pleasures in store for you,
You lucky lucky man.
So - with the sump touching the ARB it was definitely time.
Three hours waggling to get the exhaust off which was much worse than changing the mount!
I have only done drivers side as that looked dead squishy , the other side looks fine.
Fiddly but no problem undoing the nuts with a pivoting ratchet spanner. Nuts weren't rusty so came off ok.
Back together and have about 3/4 inch clear between sump and ARB - does this sound about right?
Three hours waggling to get the exhaust off which was much worse than changing the mount!
I have only done drivers side as that looked dead squishy , the other side looks fine.
Fiddly but no problem undoing the nuts with a pivoting ratchet spanner. Nuts weren't rusty so came off ok.
Back together and have about 3/4 inch clear between sump and ARB - does this sound about right?
Edited by RayTVR on Sunday 3rd March 20:57
Definitley need a flexi ratchet. I found the only way I could do them was lying underneath. You still can't see the nut but you can squeeze your fingers in to guide the spanner onto the nut and keep it there. The spanner slots in near the ARB and operating with the other hand you can just get enough turn for about 3 clicks of the ratchet. Once I got the spanner on it was only a few minutes to get the nut off. I did the bottom first - that way the mount is still fastened at the top and doesn't rotate. Good luck
Hi Ray,
I wonder if you could just rotate it 180 degrees?
Mind you, then the engine would be too high to close your bonnet.
I think that must have been a "softer" ( low shure hardness? ) mount.
It doesn't look like it's been on for long.
The studs on mine were very corroded, that's why it took so long to undo the nuts all the way up those threads, I could only get one click at a time. You must have had a finer ratchet.
I wonder how Liam's getting on?
I wonder if you could just rotate it 180 degrees?
Mind you, then the engine would be too high to close your bonnet.
I think that must have been a "softer" ( low shure hardness? ) mount.
It doesn't look like it's been on for long.
The studs on mine were very corroded, that's why it took so long to undo the nuts all the way up those threads, I could only get one click at a time. You must have had a finer ratchet.
I wonder how Liam's getting on?
glenrobbo said:
I wonder how Liam's getting on?
Evening,Getting on OK, old mounts are off, new ones on. Just need to bolt the exhaust manifold back on. One of the mounts had actually broken in two before I touched it, the other one needed a hacksaw.
The flexi rachet definately makes all the difference, not sure how I managed it last time without one.
I'm not going to buy the set, currently only have the 17mm
Picture showing new and old.
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