V8S Fuel Tank Sender Unit Replacement
Discussion
Oldred_V8S said:
TVRees - Would you happen to have the dimensions to hand please?
Thanks guys. Here are the important dimensions.
The tip of the tool, which fits inside the locking ring, has an outside diameter of Ø62,5mm and an inside diameter of Ø50mm. The height of this tip is 5mm. The grooves to grip the lugs on the locking ring are 4mm wide and 5mm deep and are equally spaced at 120°.
HTH
TVRees said:
Thanks guys.
Here are the important dimensions.
The tip of the tool, which fits inside the locking ring, has an outside diameter of Ø62,5mm and an inside diameter of Ø50mm. The height of this tip is 5mm. The grooves to grip the lugs on the locking ring are 4mm wide and 5mm deep and are equally spaced at 120°.
HTH
Many thanks Here are the important dimensions.
The tip of the tool, which fits inside the locking ring, has an outside diameter of Ø62,5mm and an inside diameter of Ø50mm. The height of this tip is 5mm. The grooves to grip the lugs on the locking ring are 4mm wide and 5mm deep and are equally spaced at 120°.
HTH
Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the tips, I have removed the sender unfortunately had a bit of a spillage as it was just over 1/3 full. I have got all the tips on the positioning the new float. I bought the parts from TVR Parts but more expensive but I think the correct sender. Also a locking ring with 2 seals. I am not sure what the second seal is for the unit came out with only one seal - any ideas.
Tivman1
Thanks for all the tips, I have removed the sender unfortunately had a bit of a spillage as it was just over 1/3 full. I have got all the tips on the positioning the new float. I bought the parts from TVR Parts but more expensive but I think the correct sender. Also a locking ring with 2 seals. I am not sure what the second seal is for the unit came out with only one seal - any ideas.
Tivman1
tivman1 said:
..... with 2 seals. I am not sure what the second seal is for ...
Mine only had the one seal as well, so keep it as a spare. If you manage to find an easy way to calibrate the position for the float to get an accurate reading on on the gauge, do please share it. I brimmed mine on Sunday but it still shows 3/4 full Just to put a bit more info on record just in case. Might help someone. This relates to my S1 but I understand there is little if any difference?
I have just fitted a Landrover fuel tank sender unit. Part no STC1139. It did not come with seal ring or locking ring, which are available separately. The thick sealing ring and locking ring were in good condition.
The body of the landrover unit was quite substantial at the edge and one seal was fine. I have seen a similar aftermarket unit on another car which was much thinner and would have required a thicker or extra seal ring.
I used blue Hylomar both to ensure a good seal and to prevent rusting around the locking ring which can make them a b....r to get out. Take care not to let any Hylomar get into the tank, it doesnt desolve but clogs filters. I have found the Hylomar in perfect condition years later.
Any sender unit purchased will be have an arm which is too long for our application. There is a baffle across the tank 320mm from the flange against which the sender rests. The overall length of the arm of the sender must be less than that. The distance from the bottom of the sender opening to the bottom of the tank is 110mm and from the top to the top of the tank is 112mm, so the sender float needs to go about 110mm below the opening and 112mm above the top. In practice it still doesnt give a linear reading but the static reading we got was full is shown from about 80%+ and we still have 20% approx when the empty line on the guage is reached. (We played around with the bends on the arm with the sender still out, and watched the gauge movement).
Incidentally some senders have three terminals and can be wired on either of two resistor arcs. In practice we didnt detect much difference but used the top and middle connectors. It doesnt matter which way round the wires are connected as it is merely a variable resistor.
In practice of course, despite the baffles, there is a lot of fuel surge in a long, narrow, tank set across the car, with a sender at one extreme. Only a redesign of the tank and sender location would prevent the wife getting worried when the tank shows zero on sharp left handers!
I have just fitted a Landrover fuel tank sender unit. Part no STC1139. It did not come with seal ring or locking ring, which are available separately. The thick sealing ring and locking ring were in good condition.
The body of the landrover unit was quite substantial at the edge and one seal was fine. I have seen a similar aftermarket unit on another car which was much thinner and would have required a thicker or extra seal ring.
I used blue Hylomar both to ensure a good seal and to prevent rusting around the locking ring which can make them a b....r to get out. Take care not to let any Hylomar get into the tank, it doesnt desolve but clogs filters. I have found the Hylomar in perfect condition years later.
Any sender unit purchased will be have an arm which is too long for our application. There is a baffle across the tank 320mm from the flange against which the sender rests. The overall length of the arm of the sender must be less than that. The distance from the bottom of the sender opening to the bottom of the tank is 110mm and from the top to the top of the tank is 112mm, so the sender float needs to go about 110mm below the opening and 112mm above the top. In practice it still doesnt give a linear reading but the static reading we got was full is shown from about 80%+ and we still have 20% approx when the empty line on the guage is reached. (We played around with the bends on the arm with the sender still out, and watched the gauge movement).
Incidentally some senders have three terminals and can be wired on either of two resistor arcs. In practice we didnt detect much difference but used the top and middle connectors. It doesnt matter which way round the wires are connected as it is merely a variable resistor.
In practice of course, despite the baffles, there is a lot of fuel surge in a long, narrow, tank set across the car, with a sender at one extreme. Only a redesign of the tank and sender location would prevent the wife getting worried when the tank shows zero on sharp left handers!
Jerseyjohn said:
With they sender do you have to bend and adjust to suit the tank? .......
Yes. Also see THIS POSTJerseyjohn said:
.......I do not have the original float
It would be worth checking the float before you fit the new unit. The one supplied with my Land Rover replacement leaked!Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff