Clutch Slave Cyclinder
Discussion
Hi Guys. Does anyone know which Clutch Slave cyclinder fits my 1991 S3 2.9. I've looked on the alternative parts list and it seems not to be listed. I'm guessing it's a Ford Granny part but I also understand that all the S series cars had the early gearbox from the 2.8 (but I could be wrong so I don't want to start a row) Anyhow mine is leaking. I would perfure to fit a new cyclinder complete but if only rubbers are available for my 2.9, so be it.
Thanks Mike H
Thanks Mike H
Mike Hawthorn said:
I'm guessing it's a Ford Granny part
Ford had moved onto cable operation by the time the S was launched.Have you tried a Forum Search, loads been written in the past. for example click here
Edited by phillpot on Tuesday 5th November 13:09
Aaah thanks Philpot. I did wonder why it had a metal mounting frame (very un-ford like)Thanks again very helpfull as always. Everyone keep up the good work these little cars realy are under appreciated. The wife and I took it down to Spa in Sepember for the Classic racing. Great ride out, the car was faultless (although the oil pressure gauge got a little vague sometimes)nonetheless a good time had by all. "oh and the racing was good also"
Mike H
Mike H
Taken from my post on this
SLAVE
MASTER
both for the 90/110 sereies of Land Rover.
Finally after trail around most of Leicester over the last few days, I found somewhere that could make me a hydraulic line to fit the Landrover master and slave I got a few days ago. A chap in one garage that used to prepare Fords for racing and restored a number of classics and sports cars, recognised the parts as 'Landrover'. He said there was no need to pay much more than £10 each for them, which is what Wapsipurt charge. He had used Landrover cylinders on lots of Ford race cars.
A standard copper pipe cannot be fitted, I have been told more than once, due to the size difference of the hole on the master and slave. Bonding and Reline of Leicester made a hose with a 7/16th x 20 threaded connector at one end, and 3/8th x 24 connector at the other. The new line is a hydraulic rubber hose with metal tails at each end. The original copper line was 95cm long and the new line was made to replace it. It was supplied with the tails straight which I then bent to shape, curving them around a large socket to maintain a curve rather than a sharp bend. They charged me £20 and made it up while I waited.
The Landrover slave needed to have a few mm filed away from a ridge on one side as it was catching the clutch housing, preventing it fitting in place. You need to re-use the push rod from the old slave and this simply slides through the round rubber seal. To get the salve in and out, you need to slacken off the two 13mm nuts that hold it to the mounting bracket, and them remove remove the 17mm nut and bolt that holds the bracket to clutch housing. The large rubber outer cover over the lever needs to be squeezed and twisted to remove it from the clutch housing.
The Landrover master fits fine, but the threaded push rod supplied is the wrong thread for the connector that attaches it to the pedal. You therefore need to use the push rod and connector from the old master. There is a circlip holding the retaining washer in place on the master (underneath the rubber seal) that needs to be removed to get the push rod out. The master on my car also had some silicone sealer between it and the bulkhead, and I removed all the old sealer and resealed the new one.
Bleeding the clutch is relatively easy to do using the bleed nipple on the slave, but is is a two person job, unless you have arms as long as an orangutan. I was told fill the master,to open the nipple and press the pedal once only to get fluid through the system. Then close the nipple, and top up the master (which should not be empty if you only pressed the pedal once) before bleeding any air out. Open the nipple, press and hold the pedal, close the nipple and let the pedal back out, Repeat this a few times. I do not have one of those fancy bleeding bottles, so zip tied a balloon over the end of the bleed nipple.
Other than that, it is an easy job to do. I did it with the car on axle stands. I should have taken some photos, but was covered in grease.
SLAVE
MASTER
both for the 90/110 sereies of Land Rover.
Finally after trail around most of Leicester over the last few days, I found somewhere that could make me a hydraulic line to fit the Landrover master and slave I got a few days ago. A chap in one garage that used to prepare Fords for racing and restored a number of classics and sports cars, recognised the parts as 'Landrover'. He said there was no need to pay much more than £10 each for them, which is what Wapsipurt charge. He had used Landrover cylinders on lots of Ford race cars.
A standard copper pipe cannot be fitted, I have been told more than once, due to the size difference of the hole on the master and slave. Bonding and Reline of Leicester made a hose with a 7/16th x 20 threaded connector at one end, and 3/8th x 24 connector at the other. The new line is a hydraulic rubber hose with metal tails at each end. The original copper line was 95cm long and the new line was made to replace it. It was supplied with the tails straight which I then bent to shape, curving them around a large socket to maintain a curve rather than a sharp bend. They charged me £20 and made it up while I waited.
The Landrover slave needed to have a few mm filed away from a ridge on one side as it was catching the clutch housing, preventing it fitting in place. You need to re-use the push rod from the old slave and this simply slides through the round rubber seal. To get the salve in and out, you need to slacken off the two 13mm nuts that hold it to the mounting bracket, and them remove remove the 17mm nut and bolt that holds the bracket to clutch housing. The large rubber outer cover over the lever needs to be squeezed and twisted to remove it from the clutch housing.
The Landrover master fits fine, but the threaded push rod supplied is the wrong thread for the connector that attaches it to the pedal. You therefore need to use the push rod and connector from the old master. There is a circlip holding the retaining washer in place on the master (underneath the rubber seal) that needs to be removed to get the push rod out. The master on my car also had some silicone sealer between it and the bulkhead, and I removed all the old sealer and resealed the new one.
Bleeding the clutch is relatively easy to do using the bleed nipple on the slave, but is is a two person job, unless you have arms as long as an orangutan. I was told fill the master,to open the nipple and press the pedal once only to get fluid through the system. Then close the nipple, and top up the master (which should not be empty if you only pressed the pedal once) before bleeding any air out. Open the nipple, press and hold the pedal, close the nipple and let the pedal back out, Repeat this a few times. I do not have one of those fancy bleeding bottles, so zip tied a balloon over the end of the bleed nipple.
Other than that, it is an easy job to do. I did it with the car on axle stands. I should have taken some photos, but was covered in grease.
Brian6600 said:
Just fitted a new cylinder from Racing Green TVR. £37 + VAT, to my S3. Direct swap in less than an hour. I find it is hardly worth the time searching for alternatives and having to make parts to fit.
Brian
To me that's half the fun....Brian
.......especially if it ends up costing 10 quid instead of 40+
but "each to their own", some of us have time some of us have money (unfortunately I'm in the time group)!
(and Racing Green probably bought it for about £8 from their local Motor Factor)
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