2.8 Cologne timing gear

[greymrj]

I admit I am puzzled by the Torx bolt issue. I have three 2.8 Cologne engines here (one in the S, another being built and a third as a 'doner'), the earliest is 1983 and the latest is 1988, they all have 'normal' hex bolts. Does anybody out there have a 2.8 which does have Torx?

[John042]

Puzzling indeed "greymri" So I guess you are using the original bolts correctly torqued up and checking at the required intervals? Would you advise using new cam followers with a new cam as suggested by "Burtons" I could spend a fortune with their products, prices and advice. Cheers J C

[phillpot]

John042 said:

Would you advise using new cam followers with a new cam as suggested by "Burtons" I could spend a fortune with their products, prices and advice. Cheers J C

New followers with new cam is a definite yes in my book!

Have you "shopped around" ? I bought my Piper Cam from MotorSport Worldas a complete kit with followers and some special lube for first start up.

[greymrj]

Absolutely no question about it; new cam needs new followers. If the old cam is worn the followers should have about the same wear, put the old and the new together and the 'rough' old will soon wear the 'smooth' new.

One point re the old head bolts. These are not very sophisticated engines, they have straightforward cast iron everything! No alloy barrels and stressed liners, the bolts are not required to have the elasticity of modern engines. However the bolts do need to be clean and to go into clean holes so the torque reading is 'true' for each. These bolts are often rusty and the holes dirty, make sure they are clean first before re-using and that the mating faces between the underneath of the bolt head and the head itself are also clean.

One thing that is easily forgotten when checking the head bolt tension after a first run. Owners will often take the opportunity to re-check valve clearances as well, but may well forget to re-check the rocker shaft pillar bolts. I forgot once and one came loose! Made a hell of a row, I thought the engine was a gonner, fortunately no damage was done.

[Kitchski]

greymrj said:

I admit I am puzzled by the Torx bolt issue. I have three 2.8 Cologne engines here (one in the S, another being built and a third as a 'doner'), the earliest is 1983 and the latest is 1988, they all have 'normal' hex bolts. Does anybody out there have a 2.8 which does have Torx?

Mine had torx. It was one of the last 2.8's produced.

[John042]

Thanks for the replies. A new cam shaft came with my purchase (Kent fast road) so new followers. Bolts have yet to be unearthed but hopefully they will be hex headed. All points noted reference fitting preparation. I need a bigger workshop! Cheers All. John C.

[Kitchski]

Don't forget to bed the cam in. So many don't do it, it's untrue!

[John042]

Thanks for that advice "Kitchski" I guess by 'bedding in the cam' you mean on initial start run the engine at 2000-2500 rpm to lubricate the cam shaft with splash oil from the crank? Whats a good engine assembly lub' to use? Thanks John C.

[phillpot]

John042 said:

Whats a good engine assembly lub' to use? Thanks John C.

Graphogen has been around for a year or two!



Liqui-Moly



Or "good old" STP
if engine will be started reasonably soon after rebuild



PS these are just my suggestions, if your engine blows it's not my fault!!!!!

[John042]

Thanks phillpot. 'Burtons' sell a selection of build lubs at their usual inflated prices, Must find all the bits I've bought. J C

[John042]

Thanks phillpot. 'Burtons' sell a selection of build lubs at their usual inflated prices, Must find all the bits I've bought. J C

[Kitchski]

You should get some lube with the cam kit (bit tight arsed of them if you didn't!)

Yeah, start up and run to 2500rpm or so for around 15mins. It's not to do with lubrication so much (that's what the lube's for!) it's to bed in the surface on the lobes. It's especially important if you have uprated valve springs as the extra load on the lobe can cause friction against the follower on a freshly ground surface. Once it's run for 15mins or so, it's smoother and more polished. It's the cranking on the starter and idling that you want to avoid, which is great if you're just putting it all back together from fresh of course

[John042]

Thanks Kitchski, you're of course assuming I can find the parts and assembly them in the right order? I've inherited boxes of bits. Some even from a V6 I think?? The Christmas Tree is not going in the conservatory this year, no room with the engine stand. Well, my thoughts. Cheers JC