S1 2.8 Exhaust manifolds

[Griffinr]

If you can't get it welded satisfactorily I would clean up around the hole on the other side and fit a large section heavy washer to spread the load. The washer may need a little fettling around the edge to fit well.
Rob.

[mikestvrs1]

Thanks Griffinr,
I will certainly clean up and level the top sides to get an even pressure and a large heavy duty washer should certainly spread the loading and ensure that the stud stays centralised.

[YeS1tis]

Regarding the RH manifold for the S1, I managed to source one from German Ebay. The V6 Taunus (like a Cortina) was much more common there than the Cortina V6 was here so there's more chance of one coming up.

[glenrobbo]

YeS1tis said:

Regarding the RH manifold for the S1, I managed to source one from German Ebay. The V6 Taunus (like a Cortina) was much more common there than the Cortina V6 was here so there's more chance of one coming up.

Can I ask how much it was?

[YeS1tis]

Glenrobbo, I've copied and pasted the item so that you can see everything. I think it cost about £15 for the postage. I bought this about 5 months ago, but one sold on 7th August http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Krummer-Ford-Taunus-Capr... .

Ford Capri/Granada/Taunus V6 Auspuffkrümmer links 73TF 9431 CA, TOP!

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Edited by YeS1tis on Monday 25th August 13:29

[glenrobbo]

Many thanks for the info, seems a very reasonable price. I did find one about 2 years ago on eBay in Germany, but they were asking about £130 or so, and delivery was a problem, so I didn't persue it further.
Nice to know that they are out there though.

How did you manage to grind your flanges to suit your S1?

[YeS1tis]

I haven't done yet. I'm still using a welded up manifold with a bit missing from the flange.

[BrunoM]

glenrobbo said:

I'm only an expert on the longer RH one.
The part no.73TF-9431-CA is correct, it is sourced from the Cortina/ Taunus 2.3 V6 Cologne LEFT hand side and is rarer than hen's teeth in piles of rocking horse poo.
TVR modified the manifold by grinding the flange faces to a taper like this to get clearance from the chassis rail....



I managed to grind mine using this method.......
[ See pic below, view looking down, problem with first illustration ]
....with the angle grinder clamped in a vice, and carefully grinding down to the tapered marks I had made with a yellow paint pen.

Perhaps you could reface your eroded flange faces this way if they're not too bad. But be careful!

These cast manifolds are weldable by someone who knows what they are doing, by pre- heating & using special rods for cast iron.

Edited by glenrobbo on Tuesday 12th August 10:57

I'm in the process of replacing my RH exhaust manifold. Could you tell me at which angle the manifold flange face was tapered?
My old/broken manifold did not have the tapered flange face, but that's maybe why it broke off. I found a new manifold on motomobil.com and should grind the flange face, or is there another way to ensure the clearance between the manifold and the chassis rail?

[glenrobbo]

Hi Bruno,
I'm surprised that your original manifold was not tapered, was it clearing the chassis?

IF YOUR REPLACEMENT MANIFOLD FITS WITHOUT FOULING THE CHASSIS, THEN YOU HAVE NO PROBLEM, and the rest of my advice is not needed.
Every TVR is different

If it fouls, then have a look at my photos above.
The angle is approx 15 degrees, not critical, I just just did it "by eye" ( compare the modified and unmodified manifolds in my photos above ), grinding it a bit at a time. Use a horizontal circular motion so that the disc wears evenly, until there is enough clearance between the forward end and the chassis rail.

You will need to grind the head mating flange at the front exhaust port a bit more then the rear flange, but the surface must be flat across the two faces. Test on a flat surface to make sure it doesn't "rock"

Just keep the manifold flat on the grinding disc and grind a bit at a time. You will get a "feel" for it. The hardest thing is keeping it flat when introducing the manifold to the spinning disc without putting an angled "step" on just one part of it.
Work safely. Wear stout long sleeved gauntlets and goggles and be careful!

It gets very HOT by the way!

I accept no responsibility for injury or damage.

Good luck.

Edited by glenrobbo on Monday 16th February 17:30

[BrunoM]

I'm not sure if it was the original manifold. maybe one of the previous owners already replaced it once in the past. I did see some marks on the chassis, so, I suppose, there was not enough clearance between the chassis and the manifold. and that is maybe the reason why it broke.

I did a dry fit and I only have 2 or 3 mm clearance, which is not enough according to me. correct me if I'm wrong.

I will try your method. thanks for the advice

[glenrobbo]

On my S1 and also Barry's, the new manifolds could not be fitted because they were fouling hard on the chassis, so we had to grind them just like TVR did on the originals.
I think a minimum of 5 or 6mm clearance should be enough to allow for engine movement.

[RayTVR]

One on a well known auction site right now (nothing to do with me Al)

don't understand all the complexities on the 2.8 but may be useful for someone.

clicky