Discussion
Hi all.
I need to change the UJs on my steering column. I know a number of the usual parts people do them for about £90 the pair. I was just wondering whether there were any recommendations from people who have had to change theirs?
Also, can you get the correct bits from a normal motor factors, or do you have to pay TVR prices?
As always, all feedback appreciated.
I need to change the UJs on my steering column. I know a number of the usual parts people do them for about £90 the pair. I was just wondering whether there were any recommendations from people who have had to change theirs?
Also, can you get the correct bits from a normal motor factors, or do you have to pay TVR prices?
As always, all feedback appreciated.
Lewis's Friend said:
or do you have to pay TVR prices?
Try Rally Design, a lot cheaper although there have been a post or two lately about their uj's not lasting too long, mine been on 6+ years and done a few miles and still ok 
Part No's.
Top UJ RD 850
Bottom UJ RD 820F or RD 820
Thanks for the reply.
Has anyone tried any of the other types. ML Performance or DG? I'm happy to pay the difference, but only if it's likely to be worth it.
At the moment, the slop in the joints is pretty minute, but still spoils initial turn in. I'd like to totally get rid of it, as the rest of the suspension is really good.
Has anyone tried any of the other types. ML Performance or DG? I'm happy to pay the difference, but only if it's likely to be worth it.
At the moment, the slop in the joints is pretty minute, but still spoils initial turn in. I'd like to totally get rid of it, as the rest of the suspension is really good.
Hi,
First make sure that the u/j pinch bolts are clamping the u/j split body tightly onto the splines and that there is definitely no play there.
I just replaced mine with the Rally Design forged item ( RD820F ) which requires longer bolts. I got high tensile M8 x 50 plain shank bolts and cut them down to suit ( about 42mm ). They needed quite a high torque to grip the splined shaft tightly.
The intermediate shaft & upper u/j assembly comes in two different lengths on S, so measure yours to ensure they supply the correct one for your car.
Mark up the steering shafts before dismantling, to preserve orientation, and on assembly keep the u/j yokes 'in phase', otherwise the steering will feel very lumpy.
Good luck,
Glen
ETA On assembly, I use a bit of Loctite and new nyloc nuts or stiffnuts on safety critical components.
First make sure that the u/j pinch bolts are clamping the u/j split body tightly onto the splines and that there is definitely no play there.
I just replaced mine with the Rally Design forged item ( RD820F ) which requires longer bolts. I got high tensile M8 x 50 plain shank bolts and cut them down to suit ( about 42mm ). They needed quite a high torque to grip the splined shaft tightly.
The intermediate shaft & upper u/j assembly comes in two different lengths on S, so measure yours to ensure they supply the correct one for your car.
Mark up the steering shafts before dismantling, to preserve orientation, and on assembly keep the u/j yokes 'in phase', otherwise the steering will feel very lumpy.
Good luck,
Glen
ETA On assembly, I use a bit of Loctite and new nyloc nuts or stiffnuts on safety critical components.
Edited by glenrobbo on Tuesday 14th October 13:37
phillpot said:
Try Rally Design, a lot cheaper although there have been a post or two lately about their uj's not lasting too long, mine been on 6+ years and done a few miles and still ok
Part No's.
Top UJ RD 850
Bottom UJ RD 820F
or RD 820*
Part No's.
Top UJ RD 850
Bottom UJ RD 820F
or RD 820*
- This is the pressed steel u/j, which is perhaps not as long-lasting as the forged item which looks very substantial to me. Mine has already lasted 2 weeks, and will probably last another 27 years like the first one.
phillpot said:
Lewis's Friend said:
Has anyone tried any of the other types. ML Performance or DG? I'm happy to pay the difference, but only if it's likely to be worth it.
Or do they all come out of the same factory?Guys after reading this
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
could it just be a case of them not being tightened up enough
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
could it just be a case of them not being tightened up enough
sonnylad said:
Guys after reading this ........ could it just be a case of them not being tightened up enough
That's why I said to check that the splines were tightly clamped, and to use HT bolts.It does take what seems to be an excessive amount of torque to get the u/j's to clamp securely.
glenrobbo said:
sonnylad said:
Guys after reading this ........ could it just be a case of them not being tightened up enough
That's why I said to check that the splines were tightly clamped, and to use HT bolts.It does take what seems to be an excessive amount of torque to get the u/j's to clamp securely.
Sadly, I've had to put off some car work to fit a (rubbish) garage door! Hopefully have time soon.
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