They Said it Couldn't be Done...
Discussion
phillpot said:
... a "proper roller"?
Obviuously not! I used a small foam roller; the type you use for gloss paint. Seemed to work OK though. I’ve spoken to a couple of trimmers and making the hood is well within their capabilities. A new rear moulding is on order from David Gerald so now the big problems are solved (apart from finding the money to pay for it!) we move on to the smaller problems.
One of these is how to improve the Velcro join between the hood and the body just behind the ‘B’ post and get plenty of tension on the vertical seam of the hood so that it stays in contact with the rear edge of the window glass.
I've always been annoyed by the untidy way the Velcro just flaps over the join between the between outer body and the inside and the way the trim piece/hood seal ends about 200mm short of the ‘B’ post leaving the carpet looking scruffy.
Here’s a possible solution. The metal thing in the picture has been cut and shaped to fill the gap between the end of the hood seal and the ‘B’ post; Velcro has been sewn to a piece of hood fabric (mohair here) and then that has been glued to the metal trim piece which will be screwed or pop-riveted to the tub.
So this gives a nice firm fixing for the velcro which doesn't rely on glue. I will probably also have to fit a stud of some sort to this corner to make sure this seam stays taut. This gives a nice neat finish and a tidy cover for the edge of the carpet.
All ideas still in development at the moment so if you've got any better ones feel free to share
One of these is how to improve the Velcro join between the hood and the body just behind the ‘B’ post and get plenty of tension on the vertical seam of the hood so that it stays in contact with the rear edge of the window glass.
I've always been annoyed by the untidy way the Velcro just flaps over the join between the between outer body and the inside and the way the trim piece/hood seal ends about 200mm short of the ‘B’ post leaving the carpet looking scruffy.
Here’s a possible solution. The metal thing in the picture has been cut and shaped to fill the gap between the end of the hood seal and the ‘B’ post; Velcro has been sewn to a piece of hood fabric (mohair here) and then that has been glued to the metal trim piece which will be screwed or pop-riveted to the tub.
So this gives a nice firm fixing for the velcro which doesn't rely on glue. I will probably also have to fit a stud of some sort to this corner to make sure this seam stays taut. This gives a nice neat finish and a tidy cover for the edge of the carpet.
All ideas still in development at the moment so if you've got any better ones feel free to share
Edited by v8s4me on Thursday 15th January 21:27
Hi All
Nice to see the project develop so well, it's going to be a nice job when finished, I need to get the body back on and get it painted and the leather work done before I can return to the soft top. Have a few ideas for a hard top with Glass removable panels, like the 300z and Rover Tom Cat.
Alan
Nice to see the project develop so well, it's going to be a nice job when finished, I need to get the body back on and get it painted and the leather work done before I can return to the soft top. Have a few ideas for a hard top with Glass removable panels, like the 300z and Rover Tom Cat.
Alan
Alan Whitaker said:
...before I can return to the soft top...
Are you sticking with the standard targa & hood set-up or going to try something different? Have you got some MX5 windows in the back of your garage? Alan Whitaker said:
...Have a few ideas for a hard top with Glass removable panels, like the 300z and Rover Tom Cat. Alan
Sounds interesting. Something like a Porshce Targa maybe?Hi All
I have a few soft tops in the garage but going to use the S one for the time being, Might do something over next winter, I was looking at doing a dot and peg for the rear section and doing away with the Fiberglas rail.
The problem lies with the windows as you are looking at now, no thoughts on this as yet.
On the Hard top, I have a top that will fit with slight mod's to the front, it's square where the window fits so it only needs a bit of work to make it fit at the front and where it attaches to the rear.
I have a cut roof from a Nissan 300 ZX , I can use this to make moulds of where the class will fit, bit of a big job, This is the roof section I cut from the breakers (picture from the Internet, just for show), The black lines are where I cut it from the car.
Long way off as yet, must get it on the road for summer
Alan
That looks real good, are you going to paint or vinyl
I have a few soft tops in the garage but going to use the S one for the time being, Might do something over next winter, I was looking at doing a dot and peg for the rear section and doing away with the Fiberglas rail.
The problem lies with the windows as you are looking at now, no thoughts on this as yet.
On the Hard top, I have a top that will fit with slight mod's to the front, it's square where the window fits so it only needs a bit of work to make it fit at the front and where it attaches to the rear.
I have a cut roof from a Nissan 300 ZX , I can use this to make moulds of where the class will fit, bit of a big job, This is the roof section I cut from the breakers (picture from the Internet, just for show), The black lines are where I cut it from the car.
Long way off as yet, must get it on the road for summer
Alan
That looks real good, are you going to paint or vinyl
Edited by Alan Whitaker on Sunday 18th January 12:00
Alan Whitaker said:
cheers AlanI have been looking for one of these....missed a couple recently and don't want to pay much more than that
magpies said:
...I quite fancy something along these lines if I can find a local company...
That shouldn't be too difficult. Phillpot's sister could probably run that up. I'd be looking for a better solution to the join between the roll-bar and the cover though to keep the water out.Edited by v8s4me on Sunday 18th January 17:14
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