Repair and Rebuild Begins
Discussion
When I first saw it I did think MOT issue. Will see when it goes in. Hope the body is squiffy and not the chassis 
Ordered both 1/2-inch socket and 3/4-inch breaker bar. Either way the rear hubs are coming off
Need to order so bits for the callipers to - although I'll canibalise the out going callipers if the parts don't arrive - one of the slider pins is bent and all the dust boots (for the sliders and nipples) are parrished.
Whilst doing the ARB mounts yesterday I came to the decision that it would be prudent to remove the front suspension [as a whole] and clean up the mounting points. I can renew the bolts etc at the same time. At this time I am not too concerned about the wishbones etc..
Modifying the SiLs kitchen and cleaning her pond (no euphemism) on Saturday so hoping for at least dry weather on Sunday. Would be nice to have an 'easy' swap of the rear hubs and brakes, followed by the brake servo and m/cylinder coming out. Then the electic mods!
Ordered both 1/2-inch socket and 3/4-inch breaker bar. Either way the rear hubs are coming off
Need to order so bits for the callipers to - although I'll canibalise the out going callipers if the parts don't arrive - one of the slider pins is bent and all the dust boots (for the sliders and nipples) are parrished.
Whilst doing the ARB mounts yesterday I came to the decision that it would be prudent to remove the front suspension [as a whole] and clean up the mounting points. I can renew the bolts etc at the same time. At this time I am not too concerned about the wishbones etc..
Modifying the SiLs kitchen and cleaning her pond (no euphemism) on Saturday so hoping for at least dry weather on Sunday. Would be nice to have an 'easy' swap of the rear hubs and brakes, followed by the brake servo and m/cylinder coming out. Then the electic mods!
Further frustration today. Firstly, the slider pins are slightly larger on the vented set up so will have to wait for the spares to arrive before fitting the driver's side.
Secondly, the hub was seized on the trailing arm on the passenger side. Took the entire GP to free it off. It came off though. Quick clean up of the trailing arm. Some rust remover (surface, arm still solid). Then on with the new kit.
It's the same set up as on the back of the Griff & Chim 500s. Callipers are the same as on the Tamora too so now have some part standardisation. Ali carrier and lightweight CV save over a kilo each side.
Old;
New;
The fitted the driveshaft. New packing of molypolololollolol what ever grease.
Brakes will be bled once the servo etc. are replaced.
Then did some stuff on Tamy.
So next weekend is getting the driver's side brakes changed and getting the sump strut off.
Secondly, the hub was seized on the trailing arm on the passenger side. Took the entire GP to free it off. It came off though. Quick clean up of the trailing arm. Some rust remover (surface, arm still solid). Then on with the new kit.
It's the same set up as on the back of the Griff & Chim 500s. Callipers are the same as on the Tamora too so now have some part standardisation. Ali carrier and lightweight CV save over a kilo each side.
Old;
New;
The fitted the driveshaft. New packing of molypolololollolol what ever grease.
Brakes will be bled once the servo etc. are replaced.
Then did some stuff on Tamy.
So next weekend is getting the driver's side brakes changed and getting the sump strut off.
Quick update on parts.
The brake parts should be with me tomorrow - Bigg Red as a quick ebay search revealled nothing.
Got a local engineering firm who've said they can thread the end of the ARB for me - just need to get the ARB there. If doable, then ShaunS3C is making me up an adjustable drop link.
Another small pot of Hammerite and a couple of aeresol versions also purchased.
Fuel tank is going to be a couple of weeks.
So, assuming the brake bits turn up and its not throwing it down, then Saturday should see some more forward movement.
The brake parts should be with me tomorrow - Bigg Red as a quick ebay search revealled nothing.
Got a local engineering firm who've said they can thread the end of the ARB for me - just need to get the ARB there. If doable, then ShaunS3C is making me up an adjustable drop link.
Another small pot of Hammerite and a couple of aeresol versions also purchased.
Fuel tank is going to be a couple of weeks.
So, assuming the brake bits turn up and its not throwing it down, then Saturday should see some more forward movement.
mk1fan said:
Got a local engineering firm who've said they can thread the end of the ARB for me
If they're going to charge you more than £20 I'd be buying this.......... clicky.Might not be top quality but would do for the "odd job", I bought a metric set from same manufacturer and they've got me out the sh*t a few times
Edited by phillpot on Tuesday 23 June 23:17
mk1fan said:
Even better. Ordered a metric set for £10.
did mine 1/2" unf because that's the diameter of the anti-roll bar ends (think you'll struggle with 12mm die without reducing the diameter a bit) and it's the same thread, so same nuts, as all the big suspension pivot bolts If your joints on the drop links are 1/2" don't be filing the bit they sit on down!
Metric is of course very useful for most of the other threads on the car.
Edited by phillpot on Wednesday 24th June 13:02
Right driver's side rear brakes upgraded. Complete rear disc conversion kit sitting in the shed now.
Wheels are really tight though and hard to turn by hand. Is this right?
The driver's side came apart a lot easier other than the hub not wishing to part with the carrier. Did this to release it.
Managed to get the broken stud out of the stub axle.
Then I checked the compatibility of the Fiesta ST front brakes. I'll start another thread for that little gem.
Wheels are really tight though and hard to turn by hand. Is this right?
The driver's side came apart a lot easier other than the hub not wishing to part with the carrier. Did this to release it.
Managed to get the broken stud out of the stub axle.
Then I checked the compatibility of the Fiesta ST front brakes. I'll start another thread for that little gem.
Whilst waiting for Tamy's new engine to be delivered I took the opportunity to do a couple of jobs.
First I freed up the track rod ends. Should there not be a washer under these? There are none in the replacement ends although a new nyloc is included.
New track rod ends are the same size so just need to count the turns for now. Mr Smith will sort it properly.
Then I chopped out the sump brace ready for dropping the pan on Sunday.
Need to take a few dings out of the sump.
First I freed up the track rod ends. Should there not be a washer under these? There are none in the replacement ends although a new nyloc is included.
New track rod ends are the same size so just need to count the turns for now. Mr Smith will sort it properly.
Then I chopped out the sump brace ready for dropping the pan on Sunday.
Need to take a few dings out of the sump.
mk1fan said:
First I freed up the track rod ends. Should there not be a washer under these? There are none in the replacement ends although a new nyloc is included.
Yep, there was a washer under the nyloc nut when I took mine apart.mk1fan said:
Then I chopped out the sump brace ready for dropping the pan on Sunday. Need to take a few dings out of the sump.
Does this brace need to be re-fitted (welded back in place) later, or could it be left out ? Wouldn't imagine this is the case. Why would it be there in the first place, if it isn't really needed. 
TVRees said:
Does this brace need to be re-fitted (welded back in place) later, or could it be left out ? Wouldn't imagine this is the case. Why would it be there in the first place, if it isn't really needed.
I sure there was a thread a while back about someone who had modified it so that is was bolted in and could be removed/replaced when needed... but I can't find it, and the new search is, well, err, hummMarc C said:
I sure there was a thread a while back about someone who had modified it so that is was bolted in and could be removed/replaced when needed... but I can't find it, and the new search is, well, err, humm
I have in my memory banks that it was Phillpot but could be wrong (usually am) mk1fan said:
First I freed up the track rod ends. Should there not be a washer under these? There are none in the replacement ends although a new nyloc is included.
TVRees said:
Yep, there was a washer under the nyloc nut when I took mine apart.
It is common not to have a washer under track rod end nuts.mk1fan said:
Then I chopped out the sump brace ready for dropping the pan on Sunday. Need to take a few dings out of the sump.
Does this brace need to be re-fitted or could it be left out ? Wouldn't imagine this is the case. Why would it be there in the first place, if it isn't really needed.
Think that tube is only there because it was probably easier when making the chassis to put one tube right through to meet the outriggers? doubt anything disastrous would happen with it missing but every bit helps so mine went back in. think there are a few of us "done the mod" now. Does this brace need to be re-fitted or could it be left out ? Wouldn't imagine this is the case. Why would it be there in the first place, if it isn't really needed.
I recently replaced the bearings on a similar rear disk setup and they were stiffer than I would like as well. I believe they may 'ride up with wear' as they say, but will keep a close eye when I get it back on the road again.
I have washers on the track rod ends, but don't believe it would make much difference either way.
Keep up the good work! You're way ahead of me at the moment!!
Tony.
I have washers on the track rod ends, but don't believe it would make much difference either way.
Keep up the good work! You're way ahead of me at the moment!!
Tony.
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff