Bible section on doors
Discussion
which method is that?
Put large cloth sheet over the door jamb for protection then loosely located the hinge and hinge bracket bolts. Closed and held the door in place and used plastic packers to keep the gaps even. Stretched in and tightened the bolts using air driven ratchet.
Looks like I managed to reshape the lower rear of the doors so they don't stick out - removed 10mm on the inner part of the door.
Put large cloth sheet over the door jamb for protection then loosely located the hinge and hinge bracket bolts. Closed and held the door in place and used plastic packers to keep the gaps even. Stretched in and tightened the bolts using air driven ratchet.
Looks like I managed to reshape the lower rear of the doors so they don't stick out - removed 10mm on the inner part of the door.
Edited by magpies on Sunday 30th November 11:39
Marc C said:
My doors flare a bit at the bottom, had hoped to find a solution, all looked quite good until...
They must have all come out of the same crap mould - why didn't TVR sort that out??magpies said:
removed 10mm on the inner part of the door.
Doors have now been sent back down to the bottom of the 'to do' listmagpies said:
They must have all come out of the same crap mould - why didn't TVR sort that out??
I thought it was because of the body lift flexing/moving/twisting the body, I was going to, well vaguely thinking about, re-lifting and re-packing the body... but now I know that its factory standard and technically a feature, I'll leave it at the bottom of the list 
phillpot said:
Don't think that would sort it, the door is the wrong shape, imho.
- 
I cut my doors about 15mm from the skin flange and needed to cut most of the vertical and horizontal faces with a tapering slot so that I did not produce (much) stress when 'closing' and fixing the two faces together. I made tags 25mm x 10mm from 1mm steel, used some cramps to close the gap, drilled the tags and the door to take pop rivets and fixed the two together. I could then glass fibre the joint from inside the door, fill and sand the outside so the joint could not be seen.- magpies said:
I cut my doors about 15mm from the skin flange and needed to cut most of the vertical and horizontal faces with a tapering slot so that I did not produce (much) stress when 'closing' and fixing the two faces together. I made tags 25mm x 10mm from 1mm steel, used some cramps to close the gap, drilled the tags and the door to take pop rivets and fixed the two together. I could then glass fibre the joint from inside the door, fill and sand the outside so the joint could not be seen.
It looks very good. But way, way, way beyond my abilities I think. If I ever attempted that sort of thing I'd definitely end up looking on ebay for two replacement doorsDoors have now fell off the bottom of the to-do list, rolled onto the floor and fell through a crack in the floorboards
if the doors are off it is a very straight forward job....just make sure the amount of pull in has been measured every 3 to 4 inches and written on masking tape attached to the door. don't even need to respray the door - just the jamb area. There will be a company / person near you and shouldn't be expensive.
magpies said:
if the doors are off it is a very straight forward job....just make sure the amount of pull in has been measured every 3 to 4 inches and written on masking tape attached to the door. don't even need to respray the door - just the jamb area. There will be a company / person near you and shouldn't be expensive.
But your in Teesside, that's nowhere near me Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff