Dash Removal and Re-vaneering

[Lewis's Friend]

AceOfHearts said:

glenrobbo said:

Lewis's Friend said:

Thought I'd quickly update this. I received my Formica sample direct from Formica UK. I am most unimpressed by it. At first glance it looked good, but on closer inspection you could see what looked like little air bubbles in the finish (similar to a badly applied screen protector, but not so obvious).

I don't think I'll be pursuing that route to be honest.

So what's it like with the protective film removed then?

Edited by glenrobbo on Thursday 8th January 01:03

Quiet you...!

[glenrobbo]

Lewis's Friend said:

Quiet you...!

Yes, do behave yourself young man .

[Deeman]

MMMmmm Varnish..... (1st thinned coat on veneer). Veneer surprisingly easy to work with.

[Deeman]

[Deeman]

[Deeman]

About 15 more coats to follow..........

[phillpot]

Looking good Pete, you probably know exactly what you're doing and how to do it but I was once told that a light rub with wire wool was the "trick" between coats or varnish?

[v8s4me]

phillpot said:

... I was once told that a light rub with wire wool was the "trick" between coats of varnish...

I think that's the technique with French polish, or teak oil. I've found very fine-grade sandpaper works the best on varnish. Flour paper if you can find an old-school hardware shop which knows what you're talking about. That won't be B&Q! If you're using traditional yacht varnish though (ie solvent based) you need to make sure each coat is thoroughly, (repeat, thoroughly!) dry before sanding or or the sandpaper will "grab" it. Lots and lots of thin coats is the way to go, with light sanding between each coat. And sand in a different room to one you're varnishing in or you'll get the dust sticking to the varnish as it dries. Wipe with white spirit after sanding. Expect an up-date next Sunday! Eggs for Grandmothers available by the dozen

[Deeman]

Mike - I always value the advice of you guys on here. I'm by no means an expert, but have good aptitude and a willingness to learn from others, like yourself. I wouldn't even be attempting this job, if it wasn't for all the info here on getting to the panels!!. Got a feeling I should use grain filler too - will try the wire wool. Pete

[Deeman]

Joe. Likewise thanks. Dust I do know!! From doing air fix kits when a kid, and mum starts the hoovering around your just painted project!! All advice taken onboard nonetheless captain.

[v8s4me]

Deeman said:

..... Got a feeling I should use grain filler too ...

You shouldn't need this if you sand carefully between each coat. The varnish will build up in the grain and make the surface even, eventually. Is it teak or mahogany? If you do want to use grain-filler, try it out on a bit of scrap first in case it stains the wood.

[Oldred_V8S]

Damn fine looking job Pete.

[v8s4me]

And I'd also try and get hold of varnish with a UV additive if you can. Mahogany, and more especially teak, fades quite quickly in sunlight. Keep up the good work, it will look great when you've finished

[magpies]

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi All
Nice job there, should polish up and look good.

Alan

[Deeman]

Thanks Gents. Will post an update when a few more coats are on...Pete

[phillpot]

Nothing like the satisfaction of doing it yourself, but if you have more money than time it might be worth a call to TVR Mads.

[Deeman]

Mike - bit late now. I'm on the 3rd coat after flatting back. (it's looking better each time though)

[v8s4me]

Deeman said:

.......... I'm on the 3rd coat after flatting back...

That's still just sealing it! Keep going Don't forget it needs to be really smooth between coats. "How smooth is that sir?" I once asked my woodwork teacher. He replied "as smooth as a baby's bum"

[v8s4me]

How's it going? Let's have look then.