Dash Removal and Re-vaneering

Dash Removal and Re-vaneering

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Discussion

Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,026 posts

189 months

Thursday 1st January 2015
quotequote all
Hi all.

I'm currently refreshing my cars interior, and the list of jobs is growing rapidly!

Ideally, I'd like to have both dashboard wooden trims re-veneered. However, I understand that getting the larger one off is a nightmare. Are there any tips/good ways of doing it?

Also, when this simple task is done, are there recommendations where to get them wood redone? Ideally somewhere in Hertfordshire?

As always, all help much appreciated.

Edited by Lewis's Friend on Friday 2nd January 10:14

v8s4me

7,234 posts

218 months

Thursday 1st January 2015
quotequote all
Getting the big moulding off is quite easy; it's getting the metal bit off the moulding which is difficult. See my project HERE from a few years ago.

London Carriage Craft is your best bet for veneer work in Herts. That's where I had mine done. It was quite expensive, although the work is excellent and can't be faulted. You do get what you pay for.

If I was doing another one I'd seriously consider laminating the dash and center console with Formica. Before you fall over laughing, have a look at its range of wood effect laminates. There is a burr walnut one in a gloss finish which is really very good. There are ones with a grain effect as well. Have a look

I'm in Chesham if you want to have a look at my dash. I have some Formica samples as well if you're interested. The Bucks meet is at the Crow's Nest near Tring this Sunday. If you can make it let me know and I'll bring the samples.

Good luck.

Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,026 posts

189 months

Thursday 1st January 2015
quotequote all
v8s4me said:
Getting the big moulding off is quite easy; it's getting the metal bit off the moulding which is difficult. See my project HERE from a few years ago.

London Carriage Craft is your best bet for veneer work in Herts. That's where I had mine done. It was quite expensive, although the work is excellent and can't be faulted. You do get what you pay for.

If I was doing another one I'd seriously consider laminating the dash and center console with Formica. Before you fall over laughing, have a look at its range of wood effect laminates. There is a burr walnut one in a gloss finish which is really very good. There are ones with a grain effect as well. Have a look

I'm in Chesham if you want to have a look at my dash. I have some Formica samples as well if you're interested. The Bucks meet is at the Crow's Nest near Tring this Sunday. If you can make it let me know and I'll bring the samples.

Good luck.
Thanks for the feedback.

Are the dash tops like in the Chimaera with some threaded rod holding it in?

As for the Formica, how do you cut it to shape? It sounds like an interesting option. I'm afraid I won't be free on Sunday, but thanks for the offer.

v8s4me

7,234 posts

218 months

Thursday 1st January 2015
quotequote all
Just somewhere between two and four Phillips head machine screws holding the top of the moulding and a nut & bolt on a bracket on each side on the bottom of the moulding.

When I've laminated timber I just score with a Stanley knife and then smooth the edge with wet & dry. A Dremmel with a cutting disc would probably do for the fiddly bits around the heater, switch and instrument openings.

Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,026 posts

189 months

Thursday 1st January 2015
quotequote all
v8s4me said:
Just somewhere between two and four Phillips head machine screws holding the top of the moulding and a nut & bolt on a bracket on each side on the bottom of the moulding.

When I've laminated timber I just score with a Stanley knife and then smooth the edge with wet & dry. A Dremmel with a cutting disc would probably do for the fiddly bits around the heater, switch and instrument openings.
I may well give that a go with the Formica. That could save a pretty penny!

Thanks for all the help.

phillpot

17,105 posts

182 months

Thursday 1st January 2015
quotequote all
Lewis's Friend said:
I may well give that a go with the Formica.
from my limited experience Formica chips very easily when cutting, I can just imagine getting to the last instrument hole, all looking good, and then a great chunk splintering out!
That was a long time ago, it may be more "workable" these days.

I sold my other S without getting around to the dash but was looking at using real wood veneer and a few coats of varnish scratchchin

TvrJohn

1,058 posts

254 months

Thursday 1st January 2015
quotequote all
Interesting, my V8S needs the dash re-veneering,
the formica will be pre finished, found a supplier local, but feel minimum order value may kick in

the real wood, requires alot of laquer application mmmmm

mep12345

2,061 posts

200 months

Thursday 1st January 2015
quotequote all
Removal of dash is on my site, as is the low cost plastic covering and lacquer option - total cost to me was under £20 and about 5 hours work. From a distance you can't tell it from wood and it is far better than the original paper effect. Using the plastic wrap means you can also do the door strips and ash trays.

Go to my site and click the links on the left for dash removal and dash renovation. Only bit not shown is the 5 coats of laquer done after the original work. Just be careful that each layer is light as putting too much on in one go can cause the plastic wrap to bubble. Trick is 2 thin coats to seal the plastic then 3 thicker ones to give the deep shine

HTH

Mark

arhTVR

226 posts

124 months

Thursday 1st January 2015
quotequote all
Hi
I will have my S3 dash to cover at some time in the future, and was toying with the idea of having it 'hydro dipped' - where a plastic film is floated on top of water and applied over the dashboards sculpted surface when it is lifted from underneath - difficult to describe, but loads on the web about it. Seems you just get the dash surface to a decent sanded and primed surface, then the coated surface is lacquered to provide a rugged and waterproof finish.
They do burr walnut as well as carbon fibre, etc. so lots to choose from.
Seems easier than cutting, sanding and finishing timber or Formica, and the results I've seen on other items have been good.

Anybody had experience of this ?
Tony.

Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,026 posts

189 months

Thursday 1st January 2015
quotequote all
On the Formica front, I've just ordered a gloss walnut sample so I'll see how it looks, and then hack it about a bit and see if it chips or otherwise comes out!

The hydro-dipping is an interesting idea though. I'll have to see if there is a place near me that does it and make inquiries.

v8s4me

7,234 posts

218 months

Thursday 1st January 2015
quotequote all
Try not to cut right upto the edge but leave a bit over and then sand back to the size you want. Not a foolproof method but it does reduce flaking of the decorative finish. Scoring through from the front also helps prevent flaking but quite tricky in practice.

arhTVR

226 posts

124 months

Thursday 1st January 2015
quotequote all
If you decide to go with Formica, a laminate trimmer cutter in a router could be used to cut the overhanging 'surplus' once it is glued to the dashboard. They usually have a roller guide, same dia as the cutter, to bear against the edge of the dash as the cutter trims away any excess. Best finish you can get on the Formica edge.
I have one in Sheffiield if it's any help!!
Tony

foot2firewall

198 posts

156 months

Friday 2nd January 2015
quotequote all
If you do decide to re-veneer then I also recommend London Carriage Craft. I'd also recommend buying
- a ratchet spanner, which makes disassembly and re-assembly easier and quicker
- double sided tape, to hold washers in place for re-assembly

v8s4me

7,234 posts

218 months

Friday 2nd January 2015
quotequote all
If you're having the door card trims done as well then I'd recommend using wing nuts to re-fit the panels as these make the job of putting them back on a lot easier.

phillpot

17,105 posts

182 months

Friday 2nd January 2015
quotequote all
v8s4me said:
I'd recommend using wing nuts to re-fit
Maybe I'm not very dexterous, but I find trying to start wingnuts with one hand, out of sight, very difficult compared to popping a nut back on.
something like these might be goodscratchchin

Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,026 posts

189 months

Saturday 3rd January 2015
quotequote all
I'll get a quote for the veneering, and have a word with the local hydro dipping place and see what the difference is. See if it's worth looking into.

I'll also have a play with my Formica sample and see what that would be like.

I've already stripped all the door cards off and recoloured them and am now attacking the seats and centre console. It's starting to mount up into a lot of work!

v8s4me

7,234 posts

218 months

Saturday 3rd January 2015
quotequote all
Lewis's Friend said:
............ It's starting to mount up into a lot of work!
Really? laugh Stick at it; you'll be pleased you did in the end thumbup

Hedgehopper

1,537 posts

243 months

Saturday 3rd January 2015
quotequote all
I don't know where you live in Hertfordshire but High Wycombe might be an easier journey than London.

http://www.classical-dash.co.uk/tvrchimaera.html

XK140

179 posts

112 months

Saturday 3rd January 2015
quotequote all
I've read the above with great interest.
My S3 is already restored to a decent standard which has included ditching the wood effect for a black satin finish...it may be vinyl paint,I don't know.
This is fine for the time being but if I wanted to change it I would be inclined to go for the alloy patterned effect as seen on the dashes of some Chims and Griffs,in fact I believe it was both an ex factory option and and an after market mod.
Does anyone sell these ready done for the S or is it a case of cut your own from ally sheet?
I think a dash like this would go well with other bling,i.e.shiny gear knob,hand brake handle and polished steering wheel centrecool

Lewis's Friend

Original Poster:

1,026 posts

189 months

Monday 5th January 2015
quotequote all
In case anyone is interested, I have got some rough quotes for this work.

A re-veneer from London Carriage Craft was £366 (this not including door strips).

A hydro-dipping from Wicked Coatings for the same pieces was £260.

Admittedly, Wicked Coatings are by no means local but I had heard of them and they answered the phone, which is more than the local forms seemed willing to do!

Now I'm not sure whether to spend the extra on a proper veneer, or try something different. How hard wearing are the veneers do people know? Mine are rough, but are also pretty old now.

I'm guessing there is not too much experience of Hydro-dipping?