Trailing arm removal / reinstall

Trailing arm removal / reinstall

Author
Discussion

robinlarry

Original Poster:

113 posts

112 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
quotequote all
[Your S will be a "mish mash" of imperial and metric!]

It sounds like that's how TVR built it in the first place.

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Tuesday 27th January 2015
quotequote all
robinlarry said:
It sounds like that's how TVR built it in the first place.
Correct!

robinlarry

Original Poster:

113 posts

112 months

Sunday 1st February 2015
quotequote all
So now I have to reinstall the trailing arm,drive shaft, and spare tire to attempt to remove the d### hub nut. It would have been a lot easier when I had the brakes installed. (Yes, it turns clockwise on the RH side).

tvrgit

8,472 posts

252 months

Monday 2nd February 2015
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tvrgit said:
Surely better to remove hub and bearings if you're stripping rust and paint?
Alan Whitaker said:
Take off shocks, calipers, discs, remove the hub nuts and remove the bearing carriers(lightens up the trailing arms as well)
phillpot said:
You can lead a horse to water but.................. wink
Some of us have been there before and try to offer advice. Some of us wonder why we bother.

I can think of a way to get the nut off without reassembling everything. It's probably not Elfin Safety approved though so I'm not going to be specific, in case you break your curly-wurly and come back and sue. What you need to do is prevent the wheel turning while you undo the nut. That doesn't necessarily mean that the wheel and hub has to be on the car though...

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Monday 2nd February 2015
quotequote all

There is indeed " more than one way to skin a cat" .............



(Brake drum is still fitted but brakes are not on)



Alternatively now they are off drop them down to a local workshop and ask nicely if they'll run them off with an impact wrench scratchchin

glenrobbo

35,251 posts

150 months

Monday 2nd February 2015
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This is all just reactionary torque guys. wink

Adrian@

4,309 posts

282 months

Monday 2nd February 2015
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glenrobbo said:
This is all just reactionary torque guys. wink
Hohoho....and as for ...Alternatively now they are off drop them down to a local workshop and ask nicely if they'll run them off with an impact wrench.
Wellllll...Do as I say not as I do.


Humour is the best policy
Adrian@

mentall

453 posts

130 months

Monday 2nd February 2015
quotequote all
You need one of these:



No bent hub bolts, no damaged threads.
Available, free short-term loan, only to nice people in the South-west.

robinlarry

Original Poster:

113 posts

112 months

Monday 2nd February 2015
quotequote all
I suppose you don't mean south west Ohio.

magpies

5,129 posts

182 months

Monday 2nd February 2015
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just remember to protect the wheel stud threads - even if it is by a goodly number of turns of electricians tape

mentall

453 posts

130 months

Monday 2nd February 2015
quotequote all
robinlarry said:
I suppose you don't mean south west Ohio.
Or even West Brompton (SW 10). But delivery by post is going to be expensive: it weighs about 10kg.

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Monday 2nd February 2015
quotequote all
Adrian@ said:
Hohoho....and as for ...Alternatively now they are off drop them down to a local workshop and ask nicely if they'll run them off with an impact wrench.
Wellllll...Do as I say not as I do.
Should have said, truck, bus or coach workshop... they have big ones! wink



robinlarry

Original Poster:

113 posts

112 months

Wednesday 4th February 2015
quotequote all
All apart. Special thanks to Phillpot for his clever suggestion. New hub nuts and bearings in the post.