Bolt locations
Discussion
Hi
Just doing a part body lift on S2. Have removed the 2 at the back, the 3 under each side, and the handbrake, but I think there maybe a couple into the transmission tunnel, but cant find them. Am I imagining things? If they are there, do I have to remove the dashboard, or can I just ease up the back of the console.
Appreciate any help.
Thanks
Dave
Just doing a part body lift on S2. Have removed the 2 at the back, the 3 under each side, and the handbrake, but I think there maybe a couple into the transmission tunnel, but cant find them. Am I imagining things? If they are there, do I have to remove the dashboard, or can I just ease up the back of the console.
Appreciate any help.
Thanks
Dave
[quote=On that other thread, tvrgit]This article explains exactly where all the mounting bolts are - although this was for a partial lift so most of the electrical and hydraulic connections could remain in place.
http://www.tvrgit.com/bodylift.html
[/quote]
http://www.tvrgit.com/bodylift.html
[/quote]
at least I have an excuse as I'm in a different time zone!
Hi Dave - I made the pdf (based on my V8S) that's no longer online. If you email me through my profile I'll send it.
I had x17 bolts:
x4 on floor at front of footwell (x2 each side)
x2 under the radio/under centre console
x4 one for each seatbelt anchor on floor
x6 behind seats (x1 each side underneath carpet next to transmission tunnel, x1 each side securing seat belt reel and x1 each side vertically through the little horizontal shelf underneath seat belt reel)
x1 in boot, vertically through fuel tank frame - I think not even all V8S had this one!
Steve
I had x17 bolts:
x4 on floor at front of footwell (x2 each side)
x2 under the radio/under centre console
x4 one for each seatbelt anchor on floor
x6 behind seats (x1 each side underneath carpet next to transmission tunnel, x1 each side securing seat belt reel and x1 each side vertically through the little horizontal shelf underneath seat belt reel)
x1 in boot, vertically through fuel tank frame - I think not even all V8S had this one!
Steve
Bill, I know how you feel! I have spent most of 2 evenings looking for those buggers. Eventually I was winding up the front slowly, cringing at every pop and bang, when eventually I could see through the engine bay that the captive holes have no bolts. Next one that got me was the 2 under the seat-belt reels, jacking the body up at the back, the chassis was moving with it so there had to be something, took bloody ages to find them as the nuts are captive and hidden.
The job would have been 4 hours beginning to end if i had known where they all were. So just for anyone else doing a partial raise on an S2
4 in the footwell
6 for the seatbelt - take extra care, if the heads sheer off you will not be able to lift the body.
4 at the rear of passenger compartment, 2 of them being under the seat-belt reels!
2 at the rear of the tank.
Other things to undo
The job is easier if you take the seats out
Loosen jubilee clips for filler pipe to tank (so the tank can be left behind as the body is raised) losen so it at least moves.
Undo the earth strap on the chassis passenger side wheel arch
Disconnect one of the steering UJ's, had to release the rack to allow disconnection. It needs a good clean up anyway.
Remove the exhaust rear section, so you can remove the clamp on the handbrake mechanism, I found a 3/8 socket, wobbler, then double extension works to remove the nut, and there is just room to get a spanner on the top to hold the bolt.
Remove handbrake from inside.
Raise slowly, checking for anything that's pulling tight, may have to cut a few tie wraps.
The job would have been 4 hours beginning to end if i had known where they all were. So just for anyone else doing a partial raise on an S2
4 in the footwell
6 for the seatbelt - take extra care, if the heads sheer off you will not be able to lift the body.
4 at the rear of passenger compartment, 2 of them being under the seat-belt reels!
2 at the rear of the tank.
Other things to undo
The job is easier if you take the seats out
Loosen jubilee clips for filler pipe to tank (so the tank can be left behind as the body is raised) losen so it at least moves.
Undo the earth strap on the chassis passenger side wheel arch
Disconnect one of the steering UJ's, had to release the rack to allow disconnection. It needs a good clean up anyway.
Remove the exhaust rear section, so you can remove the clamp on the handbrake mechanism, I found a 3/8 socket, wobbler, then double extension works to remove the nut, and there is just room to get a spanner on the top to hold the bolt.
Remove handbrake from inside.
Raise slowly, checking for anything that's pulling tight, may have to cut a few tie wraps.
dwhitaker said:
Other things to undo
The job is easier if you take the seats out
Loosen jubilee clips for filler pipe to tank
Undo the earth strap on the chassis passenger side wheel arch
Disconnect one of the steering UJ's, had to release the rack to allow disconnection. It needs a good clean up anyway.
Remove the exhaust rear section, so you can remove the clamp on the handbrake mechanism, I found a 3/8 socket, wobbler, then double extension works to remove the nut, and there is just room to get a spanner on the top to hold the bolt.
Remove handbrake from inside.
Raise slowly, checking for anything that's pulling tight, may have to cut a few tie wraps.
A question for Dave et al.The job is easier if you take the seats out
Loosen jubilee clips for filler pipe to tank
Undo the earth strap on the chassis passenger side wheel arch
Disconnect one of the steering UJ's, had to release the rack to allow disconnection. It needs a good clean up anyway.
Remove the exhaust rear section, so you can remove the clamp on the handbrake mechanism, I found a 3/8 socket, wobbler, then double extension works to remove the nut, and there is just room to get a spanner on the top to hold the bolt.
Remove handbrake from inside.
Raise slowly, checking for anything that's pulling tight, may have to cut a few tie wraps.
I would soon like to raise the body by 2-3cm, so that I can clean and paint the outriggahs. Based on your experiences, is it sufficient to just undo all of the bolts (incl. removing seats), or do I also need to look at the "other things to undo", as listed above ?
Any help much appreciated.
Cheers
Tim
As stated, the other things to undo are all mandatory. You should be able to lift a good few inches, keep an eye on the brake and clutch lines especially.
The point on the steering UJ's is true, if a bolt is taken out of one of them, they should separate when they come under stress.
Its not an especially big job, provided the bolts move. If you want to be sure of doing it in one hit, then remove and replace various bolts when you have a minute, then can to it all at once without getting stuck on one bolt for hours.
Its not necessary to have 2 people, but would be easier, though it would would still take about the same time.
The point on the steering UJ's is true, if a bolt is taken out of one of them, they should separate when they come under stress.
Its not an especially big job, provided the bolts move. If you want to be sure of doing it in one hit, then remove and replace various bolts when you have a minute, then can to it all at once without getting stuck on one bolt for hours.
Its not necessary to have 2 people, but would be easier, though it would would still take about the same time.
dwhitaker said:
The point on the steering UJ's is true, if a bolt is taken out of one of them, they should separate when they come under stress.
Surely it's easier to disconnect the join by the bulkhead, bolt out, swing plate round and it's off. Easier to get back on and only a one in three chance of getting the steering wheel out of alignment.
dwhitaker said:
If you want to be sure of doing it in one hit, then remove and replace various bolts when you have a minute, then can to it all at once without getting stuck on one bolt for hours.
Good plan, especially the seat belt bolts 
As well as undoing everything described, it's a good idea to clear out any trapped stones or gravel from between the body sills and the outrigger tubes along the outer sides. These could cause the body to jam when trying to lift it.
A thin scraper is ideal.
It's worthwhile doing this quite frequently anyway, to stop any chafing of the chassis coating.
A thin scraper is ideal.
It's worthwhile doing this quite frequently anyway, to stop any chafing of the chassis coating.
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