Trailing Arm Re-Fit

[LawrieS]

Good afternoon everyone.

Need to get my trailing arms back on temporarily whilst the body is still lifted, can anyone give me an idea of this measurement at ride height? Obviously everyones will differ slightly but I would just like a number to work from.



Thanks in advance.

Lawrie

[Kitchski]

I'd just stick 'em on like that. Always easier to wind them down than wind them up, and it'll still high like it is in that pic.

[LawrieS]

I'll be using a piece of wood with holes drilled in rather than the shocks, so I can make each side hang from the strut top identically.

Its to help get the trailing arm hangers welded back in the right place.

Cheers
Lawrie

[Kitchski]

Oh I see! I can't get the measurement at the moment, but I might be able to soon.

Surely all the measurements you would have taken before you cut the old ones off will tell you everything you need to know though? It's not like you can afford to get it wrong.

[LawrieS]

My trailing arm had been extended so the original location was wrong. Measurements will be taken from the near side but I'd like a datum for the angle of the trailing arm at ride height. Had I known before lifting the body I'd have had more use out of my tape measure

[Kitchski]

LawrieS said:

My trailing arm had been extended so the original location was wrong. Measurements will be taken from the near side but I'd like a datum for the angle of the trailing arm at ride height. Had I known before lifting the body I'd have had more use out of my tape measure

Ahh I see. What you need is a friendly chap who's got the body off an S to take the measurements of the trailing arm mounts for you! What model is it?

[LawrieS]

Kitchski said:

Ahh I see. What you need is a friendly chap who's got the body off an S to take the measurements of the trailing arm mounts for you! What model is it?

Do you know this friendly chap?

S3C

[Kitchski]

I could have been him, but we sent the last S3 out a month or so ago. That said, I'm pretty sure the mounts are all in the same place, so I could measure up the next S to come in. We're due an S1 in a couple of weeks, so if you get totally stuck I could measure that one.

Otherwise there's got to be somebody with a body-off at the mo?

[Scubaman04]

I am planning to do a body off lift on the 28th of this month you are welcome to come along if you want. Its a K reg S3C

Let me know

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi All
Just a quess, could you use a piece of 1/2" thread bar, put it through the bracket you still have on the car, two nuts to lock it onto the existing bracket, then put the new bracket onto the bar and lock each side with a nut, should be easy to set it to the right angle.

Alan

[tvrgit]

Kitchski said:

I'm pretty sure the mounts are all in the same place, so I could measure up the next S to come in. We're due an S1 in a couple of weeks, so if you get totally stuck I could measure that ...

S1, S2, S3 and S4c/V8s trailing arms all have different damper mounting points. Need to be sure you're measuring one exactly the same as the OP's.

[Kitchski]

tvrgit said:

Kitchski said:

I'm pretty sure the mounts are all in the same place, so I could measure up the next S to come in. We're due an S1 in a couple of weeks, so if you get totally stuck I could measure that ...

S1, S2, S3 and S4c/V8s trailing arms all have different damper mounting points. Need to be sure you're measuring one exactly the same as the OP's.

The arms are interchangeable, so the differences must be in the axis positioning?

[tvrgit]

Kitchski said:

The arms are interchangeable, so the differences must be in the axis positioning?

Which axis?

[LawrieS]

The plan is to get the trailing arms, hubs and wheels on and do some very careful measuring. As a good starting point, getting the distance in the picture above about right and fixed means it will be easier to concentrate on toe in, camber etc without worrying each sides are at different heights, they just need to be equal. Two bits of wood with holes drilled through to replicate the shocks at ride height fixes the angle of the trailing arms and takes a plane of movement out of the equation, and makes things a little easier, I hope.

Everyones distance will be slightly different due to different ride heights, I just want a rough idea for a starting point.

Coupled with the threaded bar idea above (great thinking) we should be able to get it right.

Also have the shims to play with if needs be.

At the end of the day, it cant be any worse than it was before...in theory

[Kitchski]

tvrgit said:

Kitchski said:

The arms are interchangeable, so the differences must be in the axis positioning?

Which axis?

The bolt hole relative to the chassis tube.

[tvrgit]

Kitchski said:

The bolt hole relative to the chassis tube.

Nope.

The trailing arms are different. The lower shock absorber mounting is in a slightly different place on each model. So while they will all FIT, the geometry and effective spring rate will be different.

[magpies]

LawrieS said:

Good afternoon everyone.

Need to get my trailing arms back on temporarily whilst the body is still lifted, can anyone give me an idea of this measurement at ride height? Obviously everyones will differ slightly but I would just like a number to work from.



Thanks in advance.

Lawrie

depends on what spring rates, what body weight on the spring and what ride height you want.

The weight will change depending on the amount of fuel and the weight of the occupants - so you need to load up to your normal running -say half a tank of fuel and whether you normally run with a passenger so adding ballast to suit. Then the springs/shockers will compress a distance corresponding to the weight and angle of spring. At this compression spring you want the ride height to be correct. So not an easy answer. Knowing your spring rates is the start.