Brake adjusters
Discussion
2.9 S3
It's MOT time in a couple of weeks and I had a note last year wrt the rear brakes. The auto adjuster is well worn and keeps slipping, leading to excessive pedal travel.
Does anyone know the make model for the replacement required and or part number?
Cheers,
SteveO
It's MOT time in a couple of weeks and I had a note last year wrt the rear brakes. The auto adjuster is well worn and keeps slipping, leading to excessive pedal travel.
Does anyone know the make model for the replacement required and or part number?
Cheers,
SteveO
Edited by SteveOS3 on Monday 16th March 20:27
Kitchski said:
I listed my old brakes on eBay on the weekend.
Can't find 'em 
...... got the item number?Back in the day when these brakes were modern I seem to recall the usual problem was not the adjuster itself but the mechanism that adjusts it, was common practice to slip the drum off and wind the adjuster out a click or two, drum back on, jobs a good 'un
On your average low mileage fun car that should last till next MOT / service.
My brakes look like this.
I replaced the pistons with new last year.
The red arrow is pointing to the serrated edge that is badly worn.
I don't see anything I can 'click up' a notch.
For the mot I usually adjust it manually the day before and all is well but it slips back over time and I get the drop of rear brake power/excessive pedal travel.
SteveO
I replaced the pistons with new last year.
The red arrow is pointing to the serrated edge that is badly worn.
I don't see anything I can 'click up' a notch.
For the mot I usually adjust it manually the day before and all is well but it slips back over time and I get the drop of rear brake power/excessive pedal travel.
SteveO
That part "M" that your red arrow points to has 3 separate bits - the plate with a fixed toothed com on it, a snail cam with teeth, and a spring that holds the snail cam against the toothed cog. Is the spring missing or loose? If it doesn't hold the snail tight against the cog, it will loosen. Are the teeth worn? If so, there's not much you can do except replace, but first check that they aren't full of grease and dirt so the teeth can't bite.
There's also a thicker spring that holds the plate against the plate against the other brake shoe (not the longer springs that go between the shoes) - if that isn't tight then the plate moves about, and the adjuster can't work.
Option B - drill a wee hole in the right place in the face of the drum, so that you can stick a screwdriver in and move the snail cam manually from time to time, without even taking the drum off.
There's also a thicker spring that holds the plate against the plate against the other brake shoe (not the longer springs that go between the shoes) - if that isn't tight then the plate moves about, and the adjuster can't work.
Option B - drill a wee hole in the right place in the face of the drum, so that you can stick a screwdriver in and move the snail cam manually from time to time, without even taking the drum off.
phillpot said:
Can't find 'em ...... got the item number?
Back in the day when these brakes were modern I seem to recall the usual problem was not the adjuster itself but the mechanism that adjusts it, was common practice to slip the drum off and wind the adjuster out a click or two, drum back on, jobs a good 'un
On your average low mileage fun car that should last till next MOT / service.
Ah, bugger! I thought they'd automatically listed on Sunday, but it appears they haven't! But I have a complete set of rears, should anyone need them. ...... got the item number?Back in the day when these brakes were modern I seem to recall the usual problem was not the adjuster itself but the mechanism that adjusts it, was common practice to slip the drum off and wind the adjuster out a click or two, drum back on, jobs a good 'un
On your average low mileage fun car that should last till next MOT / service.
I sold the fronts during the week. Got a pair of standard driveshafts too, not that I can think of a reason why anyone would need them!
SteveOS3 said:
The spring was very tight to get on so I think that's ok. The cog and teeth were cleaned up last year with a fine wire brush and brake cleaner and I plan to do the same again. Long term I was thinking about replacing the plate but didn't know what Ford model to match against.
As said above, all the brake parts (hubs, bearings, brake shoes, springs, adjusters, brake slave cylinders, drums - everything) are Ford Sierra - not the puny 1.6 engine ones (the cylinders are smaller and the shoes are narrower), but the 1.8 (I think) and definitely the 2.0, 2.3 diesel models upwards (but not the Xr4i or Cosworths). 
SteveOS3 shows the correct picture for the brakes off the Sierra V6 as fitted to his S, the standard Sierra is rather different see: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Sierra-MK1-2-New-G-...
One solution I have used on an obsolete component before was to carefully file the teeth on the quadrant lever to regain the profile. With the right small 'needle' file it didnt take a lot of doing and was a complete success. After all the teeth are not getting regular changes in position.
I have a sneeky feeling that the cam type in the V6 sierra is used somewhere else but I have not yet had a chance to look to see if there are details in the TRW or Delphi reference manuals I have.
One solution I have used on an obsolete component before was to carefully file the teeth on the quadrant lever to regain the profile. With the right small 'needle' file it didnt take a lot of doing and was a complete success. After all the teeth are not getting regular changes in position.
I have a sneeky feeling that the cam type in the V6 sierra is used somewhere else but I have not yet had a chance to look to see if there are details in the TRW or Delphi reference manuals I have.
AFAIK, SteveOS3 shows the correct picture for the brakes off ALL of the Sierra models 1.8 and above (not just the V6 models), as fitted to the S.
The part greymrj links to, is for the puny-engined 1.3 and 1.6 engined models, which as I said yesterday, are different. It even works in a different way, and is mounted vertically from one brake shoe, rather than being horizontal between both brake shoes.
Stick to the 1.8, 2.0 and 2.3 diesel Sierra variants, and you'll be fine.
The part greymrj links to, is for the puny-engined 1.3 and 1.6 engined models, which as I said yesterday, are different. It even works in a different way, and is mounted vertically from one brake shoe, rather than being horizontal between both brake shoes.
Stick to the 1.8, 2.0 and 2.3 diesel Sierra variants, and you'll be fine.
greymrj said:
One solution I have used on an obsolete component before was to carefully file the teeth on the quadrant lever to regain the profile. With the right small 'needle' file it didnt take a lot of doing and was a complete success. After all the teeth are not getting regular changes in position.
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