Body off refurb begins - parts list help appreciated

Body off refurb begins - parts list help appreciated

Author
Discussion

AJC77

Original Poster:

132 posts

112 months

Monday 30th March 2015
quotequote all
Hi all, good news! A fortunate development offered up the opportunity to do the full body off refurb, and given that, I've decided it's best to replace many of the wearing items. The small challenge of course is identifying the correct parts so any comments you good folks can add to my list and findings would be very much appreciated.

But before that here it is ready for blasting :-)


So in the rebuild the following is planned to be replaced on my 89 S2 with 2.9 motor. I've used the Alternative Parts list as much as possible...

1. Exhaust manifolds.
I see ACT and Racetech offer stainless steel replacements at around £540 for the pair - any other options/sources?

2. Clutch kit.
Think I'm fine with this one. Given the type 9 box I'm going with a Borg & Beck 3 in 1 kit, HK9579. £130 ish.

3. Diff mount.
Ouch! Billet item item with poly bushes appears the only replacement, available from GGR, Compbrake, eBay etc at around £125 to £155 - any other options/sources?

4. Rear gearbox mount.
Sourced this from Bearingkits.co.uk for type 9 box @ £30

5. Front upper and lower ball joints.
Identified these as a combination of Saab/Fiat units, Delphi part numbers TC125 & TC76 at £25 a pair.

6. Handbrake cable.
Is this a standard Ford Sierra item for rear drums?

7. ARB bushes.
Will go with some Superflex poly bushes. I've read on here they are usually 26mm, in which case it's SF382-1004K @ £19

8. Rotor arm.
Sourced an Intermotor item, part number 47741 at £6.50

9. Fuel filter.
Sourced a Mann WK853 from ECP at £8.59

10. Rear AVO dampers.
Already have AVOs fitted but dampers tired so a pair of PG719s going on with existing springs, just need to check spring Id to see if it's 2.25" or 2.5".

11. Braided brake lines.
Fell in the Goodridge trap of ordering STV0910-5 which is a 5 piece kit for the S series!? Of course it needs a 6 piece kit which is STV0920-6 and has now been changed to that.

12. Heat protective matting.
Looking for something to reline the body either side of the manifolds - any suggestions?

On top of all this, new fuel line, front bushes, bottom hose, bolts, pads, engine mounts, etc. Gearbox and diff oil (engine oil and filter done 100 miles ago). Completely rebuild or rear brakes with new shoes, cylinders, springs and will also throw new mintex pads and EBC discs on it. Chassis will be 2-pack poly painted in silver/grey and will contrast the uprights, ARB, fuel tank in black :-)

I would be lying if I said I wasn't just a little bit excited by the prospect of the finished work, I imagine it will drive like it was new.


phillpot

17,119 posts

184 months

Monday 30th March 2015
quotequote all
AJC77 said:
6. Handbrake cable.
Is this a standard Ford Sierra item for rear drums?
No, it has been shortenned ("search" handbrake cable)



AJC77 said:
12. Heat protective matting.
Looking for something to reline the body either side of the manifolds - any suggestions?
Might be worth a phone call to this guy scratchchin


I'm sure it will drive a lot better after all that work but "like new" is maybe being a little optimistic, have fun wink

BillC99

348 posts

161 months

Tuesday 31st March 2015
quotequote all
Hi There,
I have just done a similar exercise. The rear trailing arm bolts proved to be difficult but they are Landrover shackle bolts. They cost me £4.08 inc vat for the four!The bolt list wiki was a great help as well.
Give me a shout if you are stuck with anything while it is still reasonably fresh!

Bill

Kitchski

6,516 posts

232 months

Tuesday 31st March 2015
quotequote all
I've just come out the other side of this. I would add:

  • Suspension bushes all round (I went for Powerflex)
  • Brake and fuel lines all round (I went for Kunifer)
  • Coolant and vacuum hoses (I went silicone)
  • Body mounting rubber (comes in sheets)
  • Radiator mounts
  • Fuel tanks are sometimes past it
  • Fuel cradles are sometimes past it!
  • Seat belts? They're often grotty and rusted around the bases
  • Brake discs/pads
plenty more but my head's starting to hurt at the thought of all the money I must have spent!

AJC77

Original Poster:

132 posts

112 months

Tuesday 31st March 2015
quotequote all
Thanks for tips chaps. The bolt wiki looks very useful and I'll try the chap listing the heat insulating kits.

Think the handbrake cable looks like the trickiest.... Will give the usual places a call to see if they have anything. Might have to shorten a Sierra version assuming that's possible?

mk1fan

10,523 posts

226 months

Tuesday 31st March 2015
quotequote all
Cut out the chassis strut that sits under the sump pan and convert it to be bolted in. Enables the sump to be removed without taking the engine out.

Rear disc conversion.

Stainless steel frame for the fuel tank.

Stainless steel or alloy swirlpot and expansion tank.

Move the battery to the boot.

Remote oil filter. Add a cooler or heat exchanger.

Modify the gear box to move the selector rods forward to under the gear stick. This removes the 'homemade' linkage that TVR 'engineered'.

phillpot

17,119 posts

184 months

Tuesday 31st March 2015
quotequote all
AJC77 said:
Think the handbrake cable looks like the trickiest.... Will give the usual places a call to see if they have anything.
Think places like DG can supply but, Sierra cable + about a tenner on Ebay, "Genuine" TVR cable = about £50+++


It's crude but I believe some people have just cut and re-joined using these......... clicky

PhilH73

63 posts

115 months

Wednesday 1st April 2015
quotequote all
AJC77 said:
Hi all, good news! A fortunate development offered up the opportunity to do the full body off refurb, and given that, I've decided it's best to replace many of the wearing items. The small challenge of course is identifying the correct parts so any comments you good folks can add to my list and findings would be very much appreciated.

But before that here it is ready for blasting :-)


So in the rebuild the following is planned to be replaced on my 89 S2 with 2.9 motor. I've used the Alternative Parts list as much as possible...

1. Exhaust manifolds.
I see ACT and Racetech offer stainless steel replacements at around £540 for the pair - any other options/sources?

2. Clutch kit.
Think I'm fine with this one. Given the type 9 box I'm going with a Borg & Beck 3 in 1 kit, HK9579. £130 ish.

3. Diff mount.
Ouch! Billet item item with poly bushes appears the only replacement, available from GGR, Compbrake, eBay etc at around £125 to £155 - any other options/sources?

4. Rear gearbox mount.
Sourced this from Bearingkits.co.uk for type 9 box @ £30

5. Front upper and lower ball joints.
Identified these as a combination of Saab/Fiat units, Delphi part numbers TC125 & TC76 at £25 a pair.

6. Handbrake cable.
Is this a standard Ford Sierra item for rear drums?

7. ARB bushes.
Will go with some Superflex poly bushes. I've read on here they are usually 26mm, in which case it's SF382-1004K @ £19

8. Rotor arm.
Sourced an Intermotor item, part number 47741 at £6.50

9. Fuel filter.
Sourced a Mann WK853 from ECP at £8.59

10. Rear AVO dampers.
Already have AVOs fitted but dampers tired so a pair of PG719s going on with existing springs, just need to check spring Id to see if it's 2.25" or 2.5".

11. Braided brake lines.
Fell in the Goodridge trap of ordering STV0910-5 which is a 5 piece kit for the S series!? Of course it needs a 6 piece kit which is STV0920-6 and has now been changed to that.

12. Heat protective matting.
Looking for something to reline the body either side of the manifolds - any suggestions?

On top of all this, new fuel line, front bushes, bottom hose, bolts, pads, engine mounts, etc. Gearbox and diff oil (engine oil and filter done 100 miles ago). Completely rebuild or rear brakes with new shoes, cylinders, springs and will also throw new mintex pads and EBC discs on it. Chassis will be 2-pack poly painted in silver/grey and will contrast the uprights, ARB, fuel tank in black :-)

I would be lying if I said I wasn't just a little bit excited by the prospect of the finished work, I imagine it will drive like it was new.
Good luck with the project should be great fun!

Racetech do the ball joints the lower one not OE but better aftermarket.

Kitchski

6,516 posts

232 months

Wednesday 1st April 2015
quotequote all
Racetech give you the option of aftermarket, or custom-made OE style with the increased angle of movement.

PhilH73

63 posts

115 months

Wednesday 1st April 2015
quotequote all
Kitchski said:
Racetech give you the option of aftermarket, or custom-made OE style with the increased angle of movement.

Happy days then!

AJC77

Original Poster:

132 posts

112 months

Sunday 19th April 2015
quotequote all
Well here it is, rotten steel cut out and replaced, zinc primer, primer hardener, lots of rubbing and 2-pack poly in silver

It looks AWESOME

Alan Whitaker

2,054 posts

183 months

Sunday 19th April 2015
quotequote all
It sure does. 10 out of 10.

Alan

griff 200

509 posts

194 months

Sunday 19th April 2015
quotequote all
and now with you're shiny bits it looks even better. Lol richard

White S3

170 posts

137 months

Sunday 19th April 2015
quotequote all
Give the man a hand, he managed to get, not one, but Two blue gloves in shot!! Those gloves come in handy but have yet to see them used for what they were intended - Tee Hee.

Looking good for the next 20yrs.
MRV

AJC77

Original Poster:

132 posts

112 months

Sunday 19th April 2015
quotequote all
griff 200 said:
and now with you're shiny bits it looks even better. Lol richard
It's testament to the superb craftsmanship of the refurbishers Richard ;-)


AJC77

Original Poster:

132 posts

112 months

Sunday 19th April 2015
quotequote all
White S3 said:
Give the man a hand, he managed to get, not one, but Two blue gloves in shot!! Those gloves come in handy but have yet to see them used for what they were intended - Tee Hee.

Looking good for the next 20yrs.
MRV
Ah yes, that's because the fuel tank hasn't been tackled yet, but we may well need a whole box of latex gloves just to hold that together lol.

glenrobbo

35,290 posts

151 months

Monday 20th April 2015
quotequote all
soapbox I'm surprised nobody has mentioned checking the condition of the brake servo casing. This is prone to corrosion underneath.
Many threads on here on the subject.

And how old are the existing tyres?
Irrespective of their condition, if they are older than about 7 years, I would strongly recommend replacing them before driving your newly rebuilt P & J on the road.

Would hate to lose you or the car after all that hard work OP!

Safety!