Fixed or Hydraulic Tappets?
Discussion
Hi everyone,
I adjusted my TVR's tappets last week-end and I can confirm that my engine has fixed tappets.
I'm not surprised that my TVR engine sounded like a tractor, the valves clearance were badly adjusted.
See below:
Cylinder 3 Cylinder 6
IN: 0.35 (OK) EX: 0.43
EX: 0.43 IN: 0.40
Cylinder 2 Cylinder 5
IN: 0.40 EX: 0.45
EX: 0.50 IN: 0.43
Cylinder 1 Cylinder 4
IN: 0.53 EX: 0.48
EX: 0.40 (OK) IN: 0.37
The engine now runs nicely and is quiet.
The last thing I have to do on the engine is change the petrol filter. What make of filter do you use, have you got any reference?
Best regards,
Geoffrey
I adjusted my TVR's tappets last week-end and I can confirm that my engine has fixed tappets.
I'm not surprised that my TVR engine sounded like a tractor, the valves clearance were badly adjusted.
See below:
Cylinder 3 Cylinder 6
IN: 0.35 (OK) EX: 0.43
EX: 0.43 IN: 0.40
Cylinder 2 Cylinder 5
IN: 0.40 EX: 0.45
EX: 0.50 IN: 0.43
Cylinder 1 Cylinder 4
IN: 0.53 EX: 0.48
EX: 0.40 (OK) IN: 0.37
The engine now runs nicely and is quiet.
The last thing I have to do on the engine is change the petrol filter. What make of filter do you use, have you got any reference?
Best regards,
Geoffrey
Just seen this.
100% beads imho.
I had this with a set of covers that were blasted and powder coated.
The guys there said they were thoroughly cleaned but they weren't.
There was tiny beads lodged in the threads of the filler cap neck and in every tiny crevice, (RV8).
I had to scrape them out carefully by hand with a steel, very sharp pointy thing and meticulously clean them.
This was discovered after the beads got into the system and ruined my engine!
I would never have anything to do with the inside of the engine bead blasted again!
You need to remove the sump and check the shells at the minimum as your noise could be something else……...
100% beads imho.
I had this with a set of covers that were blasted and powder coated.
The guys there said they were thoroughly cleaned but they weren't.
There was tiny beads lodged in the threads of the filler cap neck and in every tiny crevice, (RV8).
I had to scrape them out carefully by hand with a steel, very sharp pointy thing and meticulously clean them.
This was discovered after the beads got into the system and ruined my engine!
I would never have anything to do with the inside of the engine bead blasted again!
You need to remove the sump and check the shells at the minimum as your noise could be something else……...
Hi phazed,
The noise clearly came from the tappets. The engine now runs smoothly and is very quiet.
The beads stuck so much on the rocker covers that I had to use thinner to get rid of them.
I did not find any beads in the oil. I used a flexible magnet screwdriver which I introduced in the sump and no beads were found.
The oil pressure indicates between 40 and 50 on the oil gauge at idle speed. The engine doesn't smoke.
I need to cut the old oil filter to see if there are any beads in it, but still haven't found how to handle that.
You mention 'shells', what are they?
Unfortunately, I haven't got the tools to remove the engine from the car, so I cannot remove the sump.
Thank you for your intervention.
Best regards,
Geoffrey
The noise clearly came from the tappets. The engine now runs smoothly and is very quiet.
The beads stuck so much on the rocker covers that I had to use thinner to get rid of them.
I did not find any beads in the oil. I used a flexible magnet screwdriver which I introduced in the sump and no beads were found.
The oil pressure indicates between 40 and 50 on the oil gauge at idle speed. The engine doesn't smoke.
I need to cut the old oil filter to see if there are any beads in it, but still haven't found how to handle that.
You mention 'shells', what are they?
Unfortunately, I haven't got the tools to remove the engine from the car, so I cannot remove the sump.
Thank you for your intervention.
Best regards,
Geoffrey
)good.
glenrobbo said:
Hi Geoffrey,
Cutting away the chassis cross-member allows removal of the sump wirhout taking the engine out of the car. After the sump has been refitted, the sawn off member could simply be welded back in place, or modified to be a bolt-on removeable item. A few of us have done this, it is reasonably straightforward job for a competent mechanic/fitter/welder. It just requires some rectangular steel plates fabricating, drilling and welding onto the ends of the cross-member, and similar plates drilled, tapped and welded to the chassis rails to accommodate the new member.
I don't know of anyone who produces a kit or ready-made cross-member, it is better to tailor to each individual car.
Here is Phillpot's very nice version:
No need to remove the engine to drop the sump.Cutting away the chassis cross-member allows removal of the sump wirhout taking the engine out of the car. After the sump has been refitted, the sawn off member could simply be welded back in place, or modified to be a bolt-on removeable item. A few of us have done this, it is reasonably straightforward job for a competent mechanic/fitter/welder. It just requires some rectangular steel plates fabricating, drilling and welding onto the ends of the cross-member, and similar plates drilled, tapped and welded to the chassis rails to accommodate the new member.
I don't know of anyone who produces a kit or ready-made cross-member, it is better to tailor to each individual car.
Here is Phillpot's very nice version:
Edited by glenrobbo on Tuesday 4th August 21:02
mk1fan said:
glenrobbo said:
Hi Geoffrey,
Cutting away the chassis cross-member allows removal of the sump wirhout taking the engine out of the car. After the sump has been refitted, the sawn off member could simply be welded back in place, or modified to be a bolt-on removeable item. A few of us have done this, it is reasonably straightforward job for a competent mechanic/fitter/welder. It just requires some rectangular steel plates fabricating, drilling and welding onto the ends of the cross-member, and similar plates drilled, tapped and welded to the chassis rails to accommodate the new member.
I don't know of anyone who produces a kit or ready-made cross-member, it is better to tailor to each individual car.
Here is Phillpot's very nice version:
No need to remove the engine to drop the sump.Cutting away the chassis cross-member allows removal of the sump wirhout taking the engine out of the car. After the sump has been refitted, the sawn off member could simply be welded back in place, or modified to be a bolt-on removeable item. A few of us have done this, it is reasonably straightforward job for a competent mechanic/fitter/welder. It just requires some rectangular steel plates fabricating, drilling and welding onto the ends of the cross-member, and similar plates drilled, tapped and welded to the chassis rails to accommodate the new member.
I don't know of anyone who produces a kit or ready-made cross-member, it is better to tailor to each individual car.
Here is Phillpot's very nice version:
Edited by glenrobbo on Tuesday 4th August 21:02
Best regards,
Geoffrey
TopVpowerRoadste said:
I'll have to come to the conclusion to do this modification. Before carrying the modification, I will take it through the MOT. MOT stations in Belgium are very strict and I'm worried it won't go through the MOT because the chassis is non standard. In Belgium the MOT for an oldtimer is carried out only once (when you register the car in your name).
Best regards,
Geoffrey
Hi Geoffrey, I dont think that the belgian MOT can tell the difference between an original or not original chassis, I am almost shure taht we are the only one to know about that.Best regards,
Geoffrey
My station was not verry strict by the way.
See you saturday??
regards,
Christian.
I had my rocker covers powdercoated externally in black and as requested they had grit blasted them prior to the powdercoat finish.
When I collected them, there was a lot of grit particles stuck to the painted inside of the covers.
I asked them to do the job properly and clean them out properly.
When i went back they had grit blasted them again and powder also coated the inside.
Then i took them to someone with a brain. Muppets! Yeah - i love a bit of powder coat in my engine to!
When I collected them, there was a lot of grit particles stuck to the painted inside of the covers.
I asked them to do the job properly and clean them out properly.
When i went back they had grit blasted them again and powder also coated the inside.
Then i took them to someone with a brain. Muppets! Yeah - i love a bit of powder coat in my engine to!
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