REAR WHEEL SPACERS
Discussion
TurboTony said:
Mike. Thank you for the advice. I am thinking of buying hub buddies spacers from EBay which are supplied with longer studs:
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hub-Centric-4-x-108-63-4-H...
They seem much cheaper than other makes. The type with extra studs and nuts which do not need to have the original studs replaced would be easier but I would worry about the difficulty of of cheching the nut torque regularly.
Cheers
Tony
Hi Tony, did you buy the spacers? I have just bought and fitted the same ones. There is enough room to fit the studs but only just enough on the back ones with the hub in one position. The new studs are grade 10.9 and incredibly difficult to pull in, particularly on the back hubs. I relieved the stud splines a little as on the first attempt I stripped the grade 8 nuts I was using to pull them in.http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hub-Centric-4-x-108-63-4-H...
They seem much cheaper than other makes. The type with extra studs and nuts which do not need to have the original studs replaced would be easier but I would worry about the difficulty of of cheching the nut torque regularly.
Cheers
Tony
Very pleased with the result, car looks better and feels surprisingly more planted on the road.
Rob.
Afternoon folks,
I got some Imolas given to me by a friend which I have just had refurbished in a medium shadow chrome. They came out a bit darker than I was hoping but still think they suit the car pretty well. I also think the chrome side of it will come out a bit brighter when there is some actual sun out!
The fronts are the same offset and tyre size as original S wheels, so no dramas there however the 16 inch Imolas on the back have a 10 cm bigger (i.e. closer to hub) offset than the 15 inch wheels and with the 225/50/R16 tyres they rub on the trailing arm even with the 5mm spacer from the 17 inch wheels that the previous owner had on it. I'm therefore going to need some hubcentric spacers and new studs.
So the question is, how big should I go and are there any peculiarities to changing them on the S? The offset difference is 10 mm between 16 inch Imolas (ET 35) and the S wheels (ET 25), so should I go with 16 mm spacers? Or given that they were rubbing with 5 mm spacers on should I go to 20 mm to be completely safe (so adding 20 mm total to the track)?
Until I get the spacers sorted (and my rough running problem sussed; that is this afternoon's effort!) then I'm back to the 17 inch low profiles on the back...
I got some Imolas given to me by a friend which I have just had refurbished in a medium shadow chrome. They came out a bit darker than I was hoping but still think they suit the car pretty well. I also think the chrome side of it will come out a bit brighter when there is some actual sun out!
The fronts are the same offset and tyre size as original S wheels, so no dramas there however the 16 inch Imolas on the back have a 10 cm bigger (i.e. closer to hub) offset than the 15 inch wheels and with the 225/50/R16 tyres they rub on the trailing arm even with the 5mm spacer from the 17 inch wheels that the previous owner had on it. I'm therefore going to need some hubcentric spacers and new studs.
So the question is, how big should I go and are there any peculiarities to changing them on the S? The offset difference is 10 mm between 16 inch Imolas (ET 35) and the S wheels (ET 25), so should I go with 16 mm spacers? Or given that they were rubbing with 5 mm spacers on should I go to 20 mm to be completely safe (so adding 20 mm total to the track)?
Until I get the spacers sorted (and my rough running problem sussed; that is this afternoon's effort!) then I'm back to the 17 inch low profiles on the back...
The wheel studs are quite generous on the S (well mine were) so why not have knock up some various spacers from plywood or MDF and see how it all looks?
20mm might be pushing it but reckon the nuts will still catch a couple of threads with 10-12mm?
Guess even just a load of washers would do, obviously static test only!
Thanks folks, top advice as always. Hadn't realised that there was a calculator that takes into consideration ET and tyre width also so have just fed the details in that. willtheyfit.com says "Compared to your existing wheel, this new wheel will have an inner rim which is 16.4mm closer to the suspension strut. The outer rim will poke out 3.6mm less than before." so I will need to go with at least the 20 mm spacers.
From my measurements the current studs stick out 31 mm, so with the 20 mm spacers and 6 mm of wheel between the nuts and the hub it would only leave about 5mm (roughly 2 turns) to hold on to which I don't think I would feel overly comfortable with.
From my measurements the current studs stick out 31 mm, so with the 20 mm spacers and 6 mm of wheel between the nuts and the hub it would only leave about 5mm (roughly 2 turns) to hold on to which I don't think I would feel overly comfortable with.
Mind you, having a look at the back of the Imolas they have slots for the bolt-on style spacer which they tend to use above 20mm so if there aren't likely to be major dramas going to 25mm then I'll probably get those and leave the studs so I've got the option to go back ET 25 wheels easily enough!
I fitted 10mm spacers to my S3 3 years ago,no problems; I may be imagining it but I'm sure the handling has improved and it's less twitchy. However, I ordered longer racing studs, I think they may have been from Burtons, which needed to be shortened slightly so they didn't bottom out in the nuts but I also found I needed to carefully put a tapered hand reamer into each stud hole to open the up a little before fitting the new studs as the splines were slightly larger than the originals.
N
N
My new 25mm bolt on hubcentric spacers arrived yesterday so set about sticking them on today however, in line with my motto "no job is ever easy on a TVR" I've run into a bit of an issue...
The right hand side went on ok and wheels sat about 1-2 mm outside the upper wheel arch, so 20 mm probably may have been slightly better and would have still given plenty of clearance on the suspension. On the left hand side however, the wheel sits about 20 mm outside the wheel arch! I swapped the wheels around to make sure it wasn't a wheel issue and it is the same with both of them; it's as though the LHS hub sits 20 mm further out than the RHS. Is that normal?! It's a bit of an issue as not only does the LHS look odd, it's an MOT fail having them stick out further than the arch, so can't be used in it's current state. Anyone able to provide any help or guidance?!
The right hand side went on ok and wheels sat about 1-2 mm outside the upper wheel arch, so 20 mm probably may have been slightly better and would have still given plenty of clearance on the suspension. On the left hand side however, the wheel sits about 20 mm outside the wheel arch! I swapped the wheels around to make sure it wasn't a wheel issue and it is the same with both of them; it's as though the LHS hub sits 20 mm further out than the RHS. Is that normal?! It's a bit of an issue as not only does the LHS look odd, it's an MOT fail having them stick out further than the arch, so can't be used in it's current state. Anyone able to provide any help or guidance?!
Where do the original standard wheels fit relative to the wheel arch without spacers? The body is not remotely symmetrical and also may not be mounted on the chassis centrally so it's quite possible the car started out with massively different clearances between the two sides.
Whatever you started with should have changed equally on both sides when you fitted the spacers.
Whatever you started with should have changed equally on both sides when you fitted the spacers.
Edited by GreenV8S on Saturday 10th June 20:47
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